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So, as many of you know I am working on my theater. I am almost ready to have the drywall guys come in and do their work. One decision that I have been putting off....and putting off....and putting off....is the AV rack decision. My AV closet measures about 36" deep, 48" across, 6 ft height. The rough door opening is presently at ~22" wide.


I looked at racks, and to be blunt, they are expensive. I am not the kind of guy that needs to have my equipment on display. I'm way to practical (i.e. cheap) to invest money just so others can check out my gear.


Even cheap racks (Slim5) become expensive when you factor in the shelves, faceplates etc.


Now with that as a background, I got the idea for a secret room. Other in this forum have made similiar such hidden rooms for their closet, so I am posting here to get some advice. The main source for my inspiration is this web site:

Bookshelf Door


Here are pics form that site:








The design is sound, but the hardware for the door swing is a bit expensive (i.e. >$100). So, I got to thinking, couldn't I just use a lazy susan piece of hardware on the bottom of the bookcase as a pivot point. The only problem I see with that is how to get the Susan attached to both a bottom plate and the bookcase. Lets say the bookcase is 10" deep. I could use a 6" inch lazy susan. I could easily affix the Susan to the bottom of the bookcase, but then how would I affix the Susan to the bottomplate? There would be no way to get a scredriver in there unless the lazy susan could be somehow disassembled into 2 pieces.


Then I thought I could use a threaded rod through the bookcase and place something on the top and bottom plate to recieve the rod.


Since I am in the brainstorming stages, I thought I would post here and see what you all could come up with.
 

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With a pivot point in the middle, there won't be much room to get equipment in and out, not to mention yourself. Will things still fit?


Is a lazy susan rugged enough to support that much weight?

How would you keep dirt out of it?


Why not use conventional (but strong) hinges? Isn't it "just" a thicker door?
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by W00lly /forum/post/18006247


I have learned over the years watching a certain person who will go unnamed try to save a couple bucks by cobbling some stuff together only to end up tossing it all into the trash and buying the parts needed to do it right and in the end spending more money then if they had just bought the right parts in the first place



Lesson: spend the few extra bucks needed to do it right. A book self full of books and nick knacks is going to weigh a ton so buy something thats designed to take the weight and save yourself the frustration.

Couldn't agree more. Just spend the money and do it right.
 

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Secret rooms are VERY COOL



Hope you find a good solution for this, but I agree to just buy the pivot needed.
 

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As far as for the rack goes, you can check craigslist for used computer server racks (HP, IBM, Compaq, etc) in your local, with the current economy like this, a lot of businesses went out business, so you may find a very good rack for around $100, pretty much all server racks are standard 19" ones. I see you are in Delware, this is what I found, it is cheap but too big for my needs http://philadelphia.craigslist.org/sys/1570556926.html

Another one in south Jersey http://philadelphia.craigslist.org/sys/1562202094.html and this guy has many different racks, you can call him up to find out. This one from the same guy http://philadelphia.craigslist.org/sys/1562237788.html


And this one is from Delware http://delaware.craigslist.org/sys/1563817320.html
 

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I too was/am planning on a secret door/bookshelf, but it will be used as the entrance to the HT (technically it will be the first of 2 doors). I haven't worked out all the details yet, but was planing on making a metal frame around the bookcase, then attach all thread to the top and bottom, then insert the frame/bookcase into bushings of some sort.


My problem with my situation is 1) how to deal with the trim around the bookcase, if the pivot point is not on the very edge, then I'll have to figure out a way to either have the trim bend, or separate from the bookcase, or something. 2) Sealing the door/bookcase for soundproofing purposes. Which I guess I could add more mass, such as MDF green glued and some weather stripping around the edges.


The other door to the theater will be a exterior door. There should be enough room, because I'm looking at basically three wall thicknesses between the HT and the living room to which it connects. Don't worry no triple leaf here.


Keep us posted on your progress.
 

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Having done lots of commercial projects and having seen plenty of weird door hardware, do not skimp on your hardware. I know DVD cases seem light, but as mentioned, lots of them add up. Also, the bookshelf door itself is quite heavy compared to any residential door.


It will be a massive pain to take it down and re-do when it stops working. Plus, when you show it off to people, the last thing you want is for the door to be dragging or to take some funky machinations to get to seat right again.


Thant being said, what you are trying to do is super cool


Just don;t skimp on the hardware!
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by Remax /forum/post/18006786


Couldn't agree more. Just spend the money and do it right.

Yup, my dad did the same thing and underestimated the weight fully loaded and the casters gave out. He bought heavy duty caster and it ended up running thick imprints in the hard wood floor. keep in mind if your having it roll, what its rolling on.
 

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My "secret" stone doors must weight about 350 to 400lbs each. We had to remove them so the carpet guys could get the carpet underneath the doors.

it took 5 dudes to remove an reinstall each door.

I used 3 heavy duty hinges on each door. the kind that are used in comercial office buildings.

I actually added 3 more HD hinges to each side just incase, b/c I had nightmares of the doors ripping off and landing on one of my kids...


Old
 

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So ah, other than the novelty of having a hidden door to get to your components, why do you need the door to be hidden? I'm pretty sure you can have you're A/V gear, resting on regular shelving, sitting behind a regular door if cost is such an issue.


I too would have to throw my hat in the epic fail category if you're actually looking to hinge a door full of DVDs with the components off of a lazy susan.


-Suntan
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by Suntan /forum/post/18009536


So ah, other than the novelty of having a hidden door to get to your components, why do you need the door to be hidden? I'm pretty sure you can have you're A/V gear, resting on regular shelving, sitting behind a regular door if cost is such an issue.


I too would have to throw my hat in the epic fail category if you're actually looking to hinge a door full of DVDs with the components off of a lazy susan.


-Suntan

Because it's VERY COOL
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gelfling /forum/post/18006120


So, I got to thinking, couldn't I just use a lazy susan piece of hardware on the bottom of the bookcase as a pivot point.

You could, but anybody who sees the door revolving would be compelled to say, "Put the candle back!"














(sorry...couldn't resist!)
 

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This is what I did in the space under the stairs. I can open the door and get to the back of the rack as well as use the space for storage.






I used Soss invisible hinges. They can hold a ton of weight
 
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