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492 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I own a HL-T6187S with a Panasonic DMP-BDT100 player and a pair of Viewsonic PGD-150 glasses. I've noticed that when 3D is enabled, the picture is all washed out in many scenes, yet only 2 options can be changed in the picture settings. Brightness and contrast. Both of them were set to 0, which can't be right!

Anyone with 3D working care to give me their settings so I can match and see if it improves?

For some reason, the Blu-ray player in 3D is much better staying in sync than my HTPC, but then again I think my HTPC is underpowered for 3D (though it's fine for everything else...)

169 Posts
That is a fantastic question and I hope it's one that will receive a bit more attention from the masses over the next number of days. Similar to yourself, I have a Sammy HLT-5089s coupled with a Panasonic DMP-BDT350 player. Just to level set further, I had tried a trio of Crystal Eyes 5 DLP-Link glasses but couldn't get them to work with my display, and so I ended up moving to Mitsubishi IR-emitter based 2100s and they worked right out of the box. I'm not sure if that's optimal, but given that I didn't get anywhere with the CE5s (which was very disappointing to me after hearing such phenomenal feedback), it's better than nothing for now.

After various tweaks, here is what I have discovered. Let's see if it's common ground with your situation?

First off, when setting the HDMI 3 source in the 5089 to PC, it appears that I am locked into Dynamic Mode with very few choices available to me with respect to adjustments.

When in 3d Mode (Standard or Inverse), all that you can alter is Contrast and Brightness.

However, there are a few sneaky ways around this. If you go back to the 3d Mode "Off" setting, and then bring up your menu, you will now have access to Color/Color Tone/Size/Color Gamut. Changes that you make on this screen WILL affect the 3d Mode On screens. This is one way to adjust your settings more than if you tried to do it in 3d Mode On exclusively.

Nonetheless, it's not a perfect world. AFAIK, you STILL can't adjust tint or detailed settings, and Color Tone is only able to be Cool 2/Cool1/Normal. Warm 1/Warm 2 are greyed out.

There is one other relevant setting that is on the Panasonic player, and even after reading multiple, multiple pages, I can't find any real opinion as to what we are supposed to set under TV/Device Connection -> HDMI Connection -> HDMI Color Mode? The default is YCbCr 4:4:4 but you have the other choices of YCbCr 4:2:2 or RGB Standard or RGB Enhanced. The default is 4x4x4 but I did see one poster mention that they were changing it to RGB (Enhanced) and referenced some earlier post that I couldn't locate, nor did they explain why. I have tried it on both the 4:4:4 and as RGB Enhanced but haven't decided which one I like better, although I do presently have it set to RGB Enhanced for the moment.

So far as my present settings, I'm set to:

Contrast: 91

Brightness: 35 - Reducing brightness seemed to take the "wash" out of the image and restore detail.

Sharpness (greyed out at 75 and not adjustable)

Color: 55

Tint: 50/50 and not adjustable although when I first went to this mode, it was set to 98/2 (!!) although I was able to reset settings and at least get it back to 50/50. (My calibrated movie mode has it set to 46/54 which would be my preference otherwise).

Color Tone: Normal (it seemed to be too blue saturated in either of the Cool modes and while Normal isn't my preference, it seems to be a bit less oversaturated this way)

Size: Wide TV

Color Gamut: Wide (Normally, I have it set to SRGB on my movie mode calibration, but Wide seems to add a bit of extra detail to balance out some of my other settings)

Clearly, this is a work in progress, and I should also note that my tweaks have been made only with glasses on. In other words, even if the picture looks awful with the glasses off, it's what it looks like with them on that counts and this seems to provide the best picture I can get to date.

It seems odd that things like detailed settings (what I wouldn't do to mess around with Gamma, etc.) aren't available so I have to imagine that this was an intentional decision by Samsung. But why? Finally, you would think that this would be well covered territory by now. I wonder why it hasn't been discussed in more detail?? Are we missing it?

Warm regards,

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