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I have a Sony 60A3000, still pretty happy with it. I'll post again later on some upgrades and analysis.


While setting sharpness (user-menu) looking for halos (too high) and smears (too low) was driving my eyes bonkers, and I never really was sure how close to nominal I really hit.


Knowing that excessive sharpness shapes the signal in such a way that a hard vertical edge ends up with a "true edge/spike (lighter)/dip (darker)" character, here's a technique that seems to give me consistent results.


I bring up a white-on-black convergence grid. I like one with a center circle, as it adds a checkpoint and an opportunity to watch changes in-process. I like crosshairs, too. I also like pizza.


The tricky part is to set both picture (white level) and brightness (black level)

very low, almost zero, so that the white grid is one click from disappearing. You basically have a faint ghost of the grid visible. Concentrate on the horizontal lines, as they are the reference; the vertical lines typically are the ones most affected by the sharpness control.


Once you have the faint horizontal lines ready, run your sharpness control up and down around the assumed nominal. What you will see is the spike portion of the halo appearing and disappearing on vertical lines. If you watch the circle, you will see arcs expanding from top and bottom to the 3 and 9 o'clock points. Try to get the vertical lines to match the horizontals. Too high will kick up that spike and make them look brighter, too low and they'll disappear into the background.


It takes some back and forth to find ideal white/black levels to do this, and you may find it helpful to experiment and observe to get a feel for it.


My A3000 seems to be nominal at a sharpness setting of 32 in cinema, game/text on, fed by blu at 1080p. Other modes and user settings may yield different results.


Try it out, see what you think!


Edit: Apparently turning game/text mode "on" defaults to "custom" picture mode.
 
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