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Discussion Starter #1
Just ordered a SI-HT18 D2 driver, 4ft^3 sealed flat pack from DIY soundgroup, and Inuke6000dsp from PartsExpress. Once this one is built, tested, and test driven, I plan to build another with an HST-18 driver. Both will be driven off the Inuke6000dsp. It will be about two weeks before I have time off work once the parts arrive to begin assembly. I still need to decide on what type of connector to use on the cab, I am leaning towards the recessed terminal like this:

http://www.atlona.com/images/D/d_1894.jpg

Or, should I use this:

http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/41ZTQ6A5i4L._SY300_.jpg

I have good quality runs of RCA subwoofer cable now, but I realize I will have to adapt them for the inuke, so just trying to figure out the best way overall to connect everything.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I'd get the 4pole Speakon option. That's what I used with my HT18D2 subs....
I'll take a look at that. Do you know of an easy way to adapt RCA to speakon so I can use the 40 ft or so of RCA cables I already have?
 

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The wire inside an rca cable is tiny. We don't want to start a cable war here but you should use something with a bigger gauge than that. You could use the long rca cable to get the amp very close to the sub and then use a short speaker wire. Or buy a roll of 12-14 gauge speaker wire someplace for $15.
 

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I'll take a look at that. Do you know of an easy way to adapt RCA to speakon so I can use the 40 ft or so of RCA cables I already have?
Like the others said, only reason to use your 40ft of rca cable is to put the amp close to the farther placed sub or something, use regular speaker wire to connect to the speakon connectors.
 

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long runs of low level wire may be more susceptible to introducing noise, because it will then be amplified when the signal hits the amp.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
long runs of low level wire may be more susceptible to introducing noise, because it will then be amplified when the signal hits the amp.
So RCA to amp with an adapter at the end, then speaker wire to speakon from amp to sub(s). Got it, thanks everyone! I am toying with the idea of putting the amp in the basement in order to stick with the super high output jet engine factory fans.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
$675.96 with shipping for the three major components: driver, flat pack, and amp. Got $675 from the sale of one of my subs, so just have to spring for the miscellaneous costs.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
OK, I think I have got my head wrapped around the wiring I need. Going to use a speakon terminal on the subs, speakon cables from subs to Inuke. My AVR has a single RCA subwoofer output. In order to get from my AVR to the inuke, I need this(RCA to XLR):
http://images.monoprice.com/productlargeimages/47761.jpg

If I am correct, I need to split this to go to both inputs on the Inuke in order to drive two subs(although I will only have one to start):

http://static.bhphoto.com/images/images150x150/252312.jpg

Does this look correct and/or ideal to everyone?
 

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Yes, in my case, I use the splitter so that Audyssey XT32 can eq each sub with different settings. Sub1 into input 1 and Sub2 into input 2. I should've pointed that out, but if two subs are getting the same signal, then one input is enough.
 

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Discussion Starter #15 (Edited)
You don't need to split the signal into the iNuke. Just select the Biamp mode and it will send the same signal from one input to both amp channels. I have both my iNukes connected that way.

I also use RCA to 1/4" TS adapters like these: Hosa Cable GPR101 RCA To 1/4 Inch TS Adaptor - 2 Pack https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000068O3S/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_yOB.ub14FNXB2
Oh this makes it very easy then, and a bit cheaper. So that 1/4" male will plug right into the inuke input?

OK, RCA to 1/4" TS Adapter ordered. $2.69
 

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Oh this makes it very easy then, and a bit cheaper. So that 1/4" male will plug right into the inuke input?

OK, RCA to 1/4" TS Adapter ordered. $2.69
Yep, goes in the middle of the input socket. The manual tells you too.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Pretty exited about my first DIY build, but its a waiting game now. I have shipping notices for the driver and amp, so they will probably come in this week. I don't think the flat pack has shipped yet, but it showed that it was in stock. I work ten days on, five off, and start my shift Friday. So I will have to wait until the end of those ten days to start putting the cab together(I work 15 hour shifts....eat, sleep, work, repeat). In the meantime, I intend to gather up everything I need as far as glue, silicone, mounting hardware for the driver, wiring, connectors, insulation, primer, paint, sandpaper, putty etc. Maybe some plastic/rubber feet for my hardwood floors.

So far I am leaning towards using the textured deck paint. It does not seem as rough as Duratex and is cheaper?
 
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Duratex's texture depends on what you use to apply it and how many coats you use. A smooth foam roller from Home Depot makes it quite smooth really. I was able to do my sub in two relatively thin coats of Duratex.

What I like about it is the ease of application. I didn't prime first and have had no issues.
 

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Discussion Starter #19 (Edited)
First item for the build arrived today:

 

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Discussion Starter #20
Duratex's texture depends on what you use to apply it and how many coats you use. A smooth foam roller from Home Depot makes it quite smooth really. I was able to do my sub in two relatively thin coats of Duratex.

What I like about it is the ease of application. I didn't prime first and have had no issues.
I'll have to try to find some good quality images of the finish and decide what I want to use. I would not be opposed to doing a smooth satin black finish but I know it does not hide flaws as well.
 
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