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** Man of Leisure **
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Now that I have HDMI issue resolved I have one or two other quick questions. First, I am pretty happy with how Audyssey X32 has things calibrated but have always suspected I am missing out on some mid-bass thump for my 2 Seaton F2 Submersives. After I confirm that is the case with REW sweeps with X32 turned on, am I correct in assuming I can go right to the NanoAVR HD Bass Correction in order to help boost my mid-bass? I don't really want to "equalize" all channels and mess up what I already have in Audyssey. And if that is indeed the case how do I keep the changes that I make in NanoAVR HD? Do I simply make the changes with X32 turned on and save the one of the Nano pre-sets? As always, any help and direction is greatly appreciated!!! Especially you Jerry. You have been extremely helpful as well as patient!

Keith
OK, here is how I understand it. If you make changes using the NanoAVR and then re-run the Audyssey, there is a good chance that Audyssey will "un-do" the changes you made. So my advice would be to make any changes in the NanoAVR after the Audyssey calibration has completed, and not to re-run the calibration. And, of course, measure the results of any changes you make to ensure you are not introducing any unwanted effects to the frequency response.
 

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Is this thread broken??

When I got to "First Unread" it takes me to the top of the last page instead.......
 

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** Man of Leisure **
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Is this thread broken??

When I got to "First Unread" it takes me to the top of the last page instead.......
I observed that as well, because I was unable to access my post immediately above. But as soon as you posted, it broke the "spell" and all is good now. I suggest you post occasionally, just to keep things from gumming up, Alan. ;)
 
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Yup, I must have the magic touch....working for me now too. :D
 

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Just a quick note on customer service from the UMIK-1 folks.

I received my microphone order on 12/28, started setting up everything in earnest on 12/29. When I went to the site to download the configuration file for the microphone, I could not enter the number from the label. The label had been smudged at some point, and the first number in the sequence had been rubbed off. Tried a UPC code reader but the curvature of the mic could not be read by my phone.

I emailed their support, gave them my order number and explained the issue I was having. Less than a day later I had a response that solved the problem.

Very helpful, very responsive.

Now if only I could get the HDMI connection from laptop to receiver to be 5.1 as it used to be, prior to Win10 instead of 2.0 stereo....

I'll figure that one out though, lots of info on that via google.
 

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** Man of Leisure **
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Is there a reliable way to run REW if you have an older AVR (no HDMI)?
Of course. It is described in the guide. Get a cable that has a 3.5mm stereo jack on one end and dual RCA connectors on the other end. Plug the 3.5mm jack into the headphone output on the laptop, and the other end to an available two-channel input on the AVR. Set REW to use the Java driver. REW will feed a mono test signal to both of the stereo channels. To measure the left channel, unplug the right RCA connector, and vice-versa for the right channel. Feed both channels and switch the AVR to PLII Cinema mode for center channel. No way to measure surround channels easily, but who cares about measuring the surrounds.

In summary, you can get good measurements, but maybe not quite as easily as with HDMI. Good luck.
 

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Of course. It is described in the guide. Get a cable that has a 3.5mm stereo jack on one end and dual RCA connectors on the other end. Plug the 3.5mm jack into the headphone output on the laptop, and the other end to an available two-channel input on the AVR. Set REW to use the Java driver. REW will feed a mono test signal to both of the stereo channels. To measure the left channel, unplug the right RCA connector, and vice-versa for the right channel. Feed both channels and switch the AVR to PLII Cinema mode for center channel. No way to measure surround channels easily, but who cares about measuring the surrounds.

In summary, you can get good measurements, but maybe not quite as easily as with HDMI. Good luck.
Nice thx Jerry.
 

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The first thing I would do would be to make it louder. :D
A house curve typically has subs 5 to 10 dB louder than the mains. Crank it up!
You'll also need it louder to get a more useful waterfall. You should be 40 dB above your noise floor, which is usually around 45 to 50 dB.
Michael
so i made a few changes
1. added a minidsp 2x4 to smoothen out the room mode peaks on the sub
2. did a measurement at higher level

this is what i got


looks like PEQ from minidsp did smooth out the sub till about 25db. but audyssey seems to undo some of that gain. it is still pulling down the levels below 50Hz, almost same as before. on the waterfall with LCR, the pull seems to be about 10db+ at 26Hz


Also, seems this is the maximum level at which I can measure. Anything above this, I start getting clipping warnings in REW. I am using a mac with HDMI (soundflower) setup to run REW, using umik-1 with 90deg calibration file from minidsp
 

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I've been enjoying the REW software with my UMIK-1 mic for several weeks now and finally feeling like I'm getting a good feel of what I'm doing, but I'm uncertain on an aspect of the setup configuration that could be impacting my measurements. I've read through the master doc for REW and many pages and maybe I've missed it, but I can't recall finding the answer.

Question: When level matching all the subs (working w/ 4 at the moment), what volume on the pre/pro & dB on the subs combo should I be using?

I've done level matching at 75/80/85 for various measurement runs and sometimes I've used -20/-15/-10 (varying for diff runs, but same within a measurement run for consistency), but I'm wondering what's the best practice. I watch movies around -15 & TV around -30. My concern is if I match the subs to 75 dB at -10 then I'll never feel that punch when I watch at -15.

My pre/pro is a Yamaha CX-A5100, using 2x PSA V1800s plus 2x Aperion Bravus (only because I have them and including them actually lifts some of the range, but may drop down to just the PSAs).

It was very satisfying last night to run the sub sweep, EQ it, import to MiniDSP 2x4 unbalanced, and then see the corrections. Fun hobby stuff here.

I appreciate the guidance and my apologizes if I've missed the glaring answer to this question. Thanks.
 

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** Man of Leisure **
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I've been enjoying the REW software with my UMIK-1 mic for several weeks now and finally feeling like I'm getting a good feel of what I'm doing, but I'm uncertain on an aspect of the setup configuration that could be impacting my measurements. I've read through the master doc for REW and many pages and maybe I've missed it, but I can't recall finding the answer.

Question: When level matching all the subs (working w/ 4 at the moment), what volume on the pre/pro & dB on the subs combo should I be using?

I've done level matching at 75/80/85 for various measurement runs and sometimes I've used -20/-15/-10 (varying for diff runs, but same within a measurement run for consistency), but I'm wondering what's the best practice. I watch movies around -15 & TV around -30. My concern is if I match the subs to 75 dB at -10 then I'll never feel that punch when I watch at -15.

My pre/pro is a Yamaha CX-A5100, using 2x PSA V1800s plus 2x Aperion Bravus (only because I have them and including them actually lifts some of the range, but may drop down to just the PSAs).

It was very satisfying last night to run the sub sweep, EQ it, import to MiniDSP 2x4 unbalanced, and then see the corrections. Fun hobby stuff here.

I appreciate the guidance and my apologizes if I've missed the glaring answer to this question. Thanks.
You might find useful information in the MiniDSP guide linked in my sig.

As for the sub level, first of all I recommend gain-matching rather than level-matching. This is explained in the guide. HST, if you are not using room correction in the AVR, than I would aim for a combined level of 75dB, measured at the MLP. This assumes that your main speakers measure 75dB as well. And, of course, many people prefer a little more bass, so they would aim for something higher than 75dB. So there is really no right answer.

If you are using room correction, then the room correction should be adjusting the sub channel trim so that it matches the other speakers.
 

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You might find useful information in the MiniDSP guide linked in my sig.

As for the sub level, first of all I recommend gain-matching rather than level-matching. This is explained in the guide. HST, if you are not using room correction in the AVR, than I would aim for a combined level of 75dB, measured at the MLP. This assumes that your main speakers measure 75dB as well. And, of course, many people prefer a little more bass, so they would aim for something higher than 75dB. So there is really no right answer.

If you are using room correction, then the room correction should be adjusting the sub channel trim so that it matches the other speakers.
Thank you, Jerry. I'll read through the MiniDSP guide. I hadn't seen that.

So 75dB is a good matching point then and I'll work on gain matching instead of level matching.

But what volume level should I be using on the prepro to get that 75dB?

Thanks again.
 

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** Man of Leisure **
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Thank you, Jerry. I'll read through the MiniDSP guide. I hadn't seen that.

So 75dB is a good matching point then and I'll work on gain matching instead of level matching.

But what volume level should I be using on the prepro to get that 75dB?

Thanks again.
I don't know. Trial and error?
 

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** Man of Leisure **
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Thanks. Will do.

Wasn't sure if the general guidance was to use 0, movie listening vol, or some other general rule of best vol level for setting the 75dB.
Sorry, maybe I misunderstood your original question. When I check the output levels of any speakers, I play the level-setting test tones from my AVR. In earlier models of my AVR's (all Denon or Marantz models), the speaker level-setting test tones were always output with MV=0. On my current model, for some reason this is no longer true. So yes, adjust the AVR MV=0, measure the sub output at the MLP, and adjust the plate amps on your subs so that the combined output reaches 75dB. Note that the individual sub levels will be lower than 75dB, but the combined level will be louder. This, by the way, is why I advocate gain-matching, rather than level-matching.
 

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Sorry, maybe I misunderstood your original question. When I check the output levels of any speakers, I play the level-setting test tones from my AVR. In earlier models of my AVR's (all Denon or Marantz models), the speaker level-setting test tones were always output with MV=0. On my current model, for some reason this is no longer true. So yes, adjust the AVR MV=0, measure the sub output at the MLP, and adjust the plate amps on your subs so that the combined output reaches 75dB. Note that the individual sub levels will be lower than 75dB, but the combined level will be louder. This, by the way, is why I advocate gain-matching, rather than level-matching.
Ahh, great! Thank you Jerry. That makes a lot of sense and I'll use MV at 0 for setting these.
 

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Still a work in progress, but thought I'd show what's possible if you have enough bass traps and absorption in your room. Blows away any system I've ever heard.

Started building 4 part bass traps, with each part made of 4" thick Owen Corning 703 with two panels glued back to back. Makes an awesome 16" x 8 foot x 2 foot bass trap. Plus it's versatile as you can use the 4 parts as 8" panels for side walls.

Made a heck of a difference even in my very well tuned system that is world class.
 

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** Man of Leisure **
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Still a work in progress, but thought I'd show what's possible if you have enough bass traps and absorption in your room. Blows away any system I've ever heard.

Started building 4 part bass traps, with each part made of 4" thick Owen Corning 703 with two panels glued back to back. Makes an awesome 16" x 8 foot x 2 foot bass trap. Plus it's versatile as you can use the 4 parts as 8" panels for side walls.

Made a heck of a difference even in my very well tuned system that is world class.
The frequency response graphs and the waterfalls are indeed impressive. The left channel ETC is showing a peculiar reflection towards the middle of the graph. Any idea what that is? Otherwise, the ETC's look nice as well. Great job!
 

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Etc..Would you mind posting pictures of your room with the traps?
 

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