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Discussion Starter #22

Quote:
Originally Posted by nebrunner /forum/post/0


HuskerOmaha has some OC703 piled up in his garage he was going to put on Craigslist, you might PM him or check his build thread for contact info.

Yep. He got a hold of me and I just replied. I'm pretty sure that what he has will be a good amount of what I need and hopefully all of it.


I just finished putting the sealing around the bottom of the wall plate today and tomorrow I'll be putting up the wall which won't take nearly as long as it did for the ceiling. And for anyone doing the ceiling, it definitely was worth it to rent a drywall lift. It was pretty cheap to do as well.
 

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Discussion Starter #23
The drywall went up as expected. No real surprises came up. Although, I did see something strange on my side wall and felt that something didn't look right when I realized that I had forgotten cut a hole in the insulation earlier for one of my sconce electrical lines.
So, luckily I figured that out just in time and was able to easily take down that piece of drywall and do the required work. But it did make me look more carefully around the room to see if I had forgotten any other access ports or electrical holes I should have cut out but didn't. And gratefully, that was my only mistake. Now, this is my first time doing any drywall project on this scale and I was quite pleased with the results so far. So, if I can do it, anyone can.



I accidentally started covering the fasteners when I realized that I don't need to do that on the first layer. I did however fill the large gaps where the drywall didn't exactly line up. So, that means today I might do some mudding. For the first layer you don't have to do taping with it if you're putting up another layer of drywall, which I am. So here are the requisite pics.






And a closeup of where the projector mount is. Since it was a very close fit and the second layer is going to butt right up to the bottom edge of the backing I decided to wait before I put my capping on the projector mount area.

 

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Discussion Starter #24
Well luckily enough I had time to start on the second layer of drywall for the ceiling today which my wife helped me with, which was a life saver on my back. Those 70 pound sheets start to wear on you. And I was able to pick up a nice drywall gun which saved a lot of frustration and time. And it was on sale and had a rebate, so it was almost half off.


Today I only got the back portion done due to a late start but I'll have it done by Monday and then I can start on the walls which certainly go a lot faster. Oh and my wife chose to call my Green Glue© green goop instead.
 

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Discussion Starter #25
So, I was able to finish the ceiling with green glue and have been working a litte bit on the walls. Hopefull I get that done soon.


In the meantime I got a great opportunity to buy some leftover OC703 from HuskerOmaha and he brought up a good point about my theater post...It's not real clear what I'm attempting to do with my theater because it really is different than most people's idea for their theater.


I've spent a lot of time working with film files and creating content for DVD's and bluray's, so I've known the in's and out's of these systems. When I saw that Bluray 3D had been approved I thought, 'Finally, Hi Definition 3D material will be available and I can start to do on a big screen like the theaters.' But, because of whatever reason (probably concentration of force in sales for the easiest, best understood manner, e.g. 3D HDTV sales) they haven't pushed for any other technologies for displaying th 3D content aside from the normal active shutter lense, even though, roughly 99.9 percent of people who see a 3D presentation in a theater views the content through a one of the various types of passive technologies.


I started looking at ways to do it in dual projection because this method produces the most pure form of the content directly to the viewer. It's constant 1080i (I believe for 3D, 2D is 1080p) images to the viewer. In an active shutter system that's not the case. It's the pure thing that got me going and the fact that I wanted to have a good number of people coming to watch a film here and not having to spend 8x$150 per glass and that's if it's only 8 people.


For my dream to be realized, I knew that it could only be done on the computer because there were certainly some challenges to overcome on the hardware front and no one was making that kind of equipment. So, here's what I was looking for.


1. A bluray player that had 2 HDMI outputs for left and right images.

a. This player also had to have another HDMI output for audio only thus letting me also experience all the HD tracks because it's not available through optical outputs.


2. A computer software that would decode the 3D bluray files for use on a dual projection system.


Well, none of the main companies for hardware, namely Sony, Samsung, Pioneer, LG wanted to build this type of device. I know because I emailed all of them with this idea and all said in essence 'no we're not doing that but take a look at our 3D bluray players we already have.'
Really!? Really!There isn't a demand for it in the High end market? Whatever. It's their company losing out.


So, I set out to do it on the computer. The two largest players for bluray software playback are Arcsoft's Total Media Theatre and Cyberlink's PowerDVD. Before the software update all of them promised 3D playback but it wasn't clear what options would be available. After many emails and some forum posts, it was clear that they didn't intend on implementing it and many of them had no idea of what we were talking about. For fun you can search their forums and laugh at some of their more clueless posts. Anyways, it was clear that I would have to take matter into my own hands.


I apologize for the long post but I think this will save some poor person trying to do the same thing and having to go through all the problems I encountered. So, here's what you can do in two ways.


1. You need to have two projectors (duh).

2. You need to have a pair of linear or circular polarized plates for 3D. You can find most of these online pretty easily. PM me if you want better info on where to find it or the better company to buy it from.

3. You need to have software to decode the bluray 3D discs. I use AnyDVDHD but there are a variety of programs that do on the fly decoding. The reason is because the next puzzle piece for this mess can't decode the material.

4. Stereoscopic player now has the ability to play .ssif files which are the basic 3D files used to do 3D. You can just select the largest .ssif file and play it and it works. When that ends, just play the next largest or play each one beforehand to see which is the second part.


Now that's essentially what you have to do to play it. But if you want HD audio you will need to figure out how to route it to your receiver and still be able to do dual projection. This was a whole investigation in itself. I went through A LOT of work and research to find out that it's not worth buying a dedicated audio card with HDMI in and output because they are all dedicated to either PowerDVD or Total Media Theater and if you play those .ssif files, or any other file the has a valid HD audio track, outside of those two players, it won't play HD audio.
So, this is a time and money saving tip right here. BUY an Nvidia or AMD graphics card that has on board audio because it does it perfectly fine AND, it doesn't matter where your playing it from because it will decode it e.g. Sterescopic Player.


In order for the hardware to work like this you need to use two outputs on your video card and 1 HDMI slot (absolutely has to be HDMI not DVI to HDMI). Your best bet is AMD because they have a lot of slots and it's typically cheaper. I'm doing 3 AMD 6970's because I'm also using this computer for 3D PC gaming in 1080 and that takes a lot of GPU and CPU crunching. But it comes in handy because I could use one of those extra cards to do just the audio and you just select which one to use in the Windows Playback device setting. Or, you can use one card with 2 outgoing DVI to HDMI cables for the projectors and 1 HDMI going directly to the receiver.

There is another option but it kind of complicates things on the software side and I'm not sure if it will work and it will add more cost. I will be using this next method but only for my 360 or PS3 because there's not dual HDMI outputs on there as well.


From the source, be it PS3 or 360, I will feed a the HDMI cable to a 1x4 or 3 HDMI splitter. This will send the exact same signal through all ports at the same time. One cable will go to the reciever for audio only mode. Two will go into the CH-322 3D Demultiplexer device from Cypress Converters, one for each view. Then obviously to the respective projector. So, in theory you could just use whatever software (PowerDVD or Total Media Theatre) and play through these devices and it should work. But I haven't tested this yet because the demultiplexer isn't out just yet.


So, I think I've covered enough intel that this will help anyone out there looking to do this method vs. spending 800-1000 dollars on glasses for a 3D movie night.


There is still yet one more challenge to overcome and that's the screen and dual anamorphic projection
. But I will save that for when I get close to putting it up. If I get enough pleads for that info I'll share it earlier but I think that this will suffice for now.


And as always if you have thoughts or questions, share them.
 

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Discussion Starter #26
Thank you for the warm welcome. I will be sure to subscribe to yours as well and I'll keep your theater in mind for a demo too.
 

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Discussion Starter #28

Quote:
Originally Posted by zax123 /forum/post/20988544


Wow you're really cruising fast man. Took me many more months to get to where you are in only a couple.


Keep up the good work!

Yeah, I have too since I could be gone for months at a time. So, I'm trying to finish it as fast as possible. I wish I could be faster right now but I've had a lot of committments that came up during the weeks prior. At least I only have a couple more pieces to finish up the second layer of drywall. Taping and mudding will go so much faster.
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by ImmortalJman /forum/post/0


So, I was able to finish the ceiling with green glue and have been working a litte bit on the walls. Hopefull I get that done soon.


In the meantime I got a great opportunity to buy some leftover OC703 from HuskerOmaha and he brought up a good point about my theater post...It's not real clear what I'm attempting to do with my theater because it really is different than most people's idea for their theater.


I've spent a lot of time working with film files and creating content for DVD's and bluray's, so I've known the in's and out's of these systems. When I saw that Bluray 3D had been approved I thought, 'Finally, Hi Definition 3D material will be available and I can start to do on a big screen like the theaters.' But, because of whatever reason (probably concentration of force in sales for the easiest, best understood manner, e.g. 3D HDTV sales) they haven't pushed for any other technologies for displaying th 3D content aside from the normal active shutter lense, even though, roughly 99.9 percent of people who see a 3D presentation in a theater views the content through a one of the various types of passive technologies.


I started looking at ways to do it in dual projection because this method produces the most pure form of the content directly to the viewer. It's constant 1080i (I believe for 3D, 2D is 1080p) images to the viewer. In an active shutter system that's not the case. It's the pure thing that got me going and the fact that I wanted to have a good number of people coming to watch a film here and not having to spend 8x$150 per glass and that's if it's only 8 people.


For my dream to be realized, I knew that it could only be done on the computer because there were certainly some challenges to overcome on the hardware front and no one was making that kind of equipment. So, here's what I was looking for.


1. A bluray player that had 2 HDMI outputs for left and right images.

a. This player also had to have another HDMI output for audio only thus letting me also experience all the HD tracks because it's not available through optical outputs.


2. A computer software that would decode the 3D bluray files for use on a dual projection system.


Well, none of the main companies for hardware, namely Sony, Samsung, Pioneer, LG wanted to build this type of device. I know because I emailed all of them with this idea and all said in essence 'no we're not doing that but take a look at our 3D bluray players we already have.'
Really!? Really!There isn't a demand for it in the High end market? Whatever. It's their company losing out.


So, I set out to do it on the computer. The two largest players for bluray software playback are Arcsoft's Total Media Theatre and Cyberlink's PowerDVD. Before the software update all of them promised 3D playback but it wasn't clear what options would be available. After many emails and some forum posts, it was clear that they didn't intend on implementing it and many of them had no idea of what we were talking about. For fun you can search their forums and laugh at some of their more clueless posts. Anyways, it was clear that I would have to take matter into my own hands.


I apologize for the long post but I think this will save some poor person trying to do the same thing and having to go through all the problems I encountered. So, here's what you can do in two ways.


1. You need to have two projectors (duh).

2. You need to have a pair of linear or circular polarized plates for 3D. You can find most of these online pretty easily. PM me if you want better info on where to find it or the better company to buy it from.

3. You need to have software to decode the bluray 3D discs. I use AnyDVDHD but there are a variety of programs that do on the fly decoding. The reason is because the next puzzle piece for this mess can't decode the material.

4. Stereoscopic player now has the ability to play .ssif files which are the basic 3D files used to do 3D. You can just select the largest .ssif file and play it and it works. When that ends, just play the next largest or play each one beforehand to see which is the second part.


Now that's essentially what you have to do to play it. But if you want HD audio you will need to figure out how to route it to your receiver and still be able to do dual projection. This was a whole investigation in itself. I went through A LOT of work and research to find out that it's not worth buying a dedicated audio card with HDMI in and output because they are all dedicated to either PowerDVD or Total Media Theater and if you play those .ssif files, or any other file the has a valid HD audio track, outside of those two players, it won't play HD audio.
So, this is a time and money saving tip right here. BUY an Nvidia or AMD graphics card that has on board audio because it does it perfectly fine AND, it doesn't matter where your playing it from because it will decode it e.g. Sterescopic Player.


In order for the hardware to work like this you need to use two outputs on your video card and 1 HDMI slot (absolutely has to be HDMI not DVI to HDMI). Your best bet is AMD because they have a lot of slots and it's typically cheaper. I'm doing 3 AMD 6970's because I'm also using this computer for 3D PC gaming in 1080 and that takes a lot of GPU and CPU crunching. But it comes in handy because I could use one of those extra cards to do just the audio and you just select which one to use in the Windows Playback device setting. Or, you can use one card with 2 outgoing DVI to HDMI cables for the projectors and 1 HDMI going directly to the receiver.

There is another option but it kind of complicates things on the software side and I'm not sure if it will work and it will add more cost. I will be using this next method but only for my 360 or PS3 because there's not dual HDMI outputs on there as well.


From the source, be it PS3 or 360, I will feed a the HDMI cable to a 1x4 or 3 HDMI splitter. This will send the exact same signal through all ports at the same time. One cable will go to the reciever for audio only mode. Two will go into the CH-322 3D Demultiplexer device from Cypress Converters, one for each view. Then obviously to the respective projector. So, in theory you could just use whatever software (PowerDVD or Total Media Theatre) and play through these devices and it should work. But I haven't tested this yet because the demultiplexer isn't out just yet.


So, I think I've covered enough intel that this will help anyone out there looking to do this method vs. spending 800-1000 dollars on glasses for a 3D movie night.


There is still yet one more challenge to overcome and that's the screen and dual anamorphic projection
. But I will save that for when I get close to putting it up. If I get enough pleads for that info I'll share it earlier but I think that this will suffice for now.


And as always if you have thoughts or questions, share them.

You know you could just get a 3D dlp projector with hdmi 1.4 and use dlp link glasses. those are only about $50- $70. That would probably end up being cheaper and way less complicated.
 

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Discussion Starter #30

Quote:
Originally Posted by iGuitar93 /forum/post/0



You know you could just get a 3D dlp projector with hdmi 1.4 and use dlp link glasses. those are only about $50- $70. That would probably end up being cheaper and way less complicated.

Yeah, but that still misses the point. DLP link glasses still must use the same idea as all the other single projector solutions. And quality is what I'm shooting for. I knew it wasn't going to be easy or cheap but the results are going to be well worth it. So far IMO the single projector solutions are for the person who just wants something that works without having to think too much about it. It doesn't have to be perfect, it just needs to look good.And they do produce some great results but, comparing it to a dual projection system is a night and day difference.
 

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Discussion Starter #31
Finally! It seems likes it's been a long time going for this part and I guess it has. I finally got the last parts of the second layer of drywall all up last night. And what do you know...I even have a left over 5gal bucket of Green Glue that I don't need to use. Bids...anyone?



So, with that said, it doesn't look much different than when it had one layer on it so I won't take any pics untill after the taping and mudding. I'm going to try and start on that tonight but I may not be able to due to having company over for dinner.


Also, I received my Tron: Legacy soundtrack which is absolutely awesome. I can't wait to watch the movie in 3D on my screen.


I'm waiting on my Universal rack rail package to arrive so that I can see if I can use it on my equipment to mount. I'd rather not shell out $80-150 per rack shelf. That's just rediculous. It should be here tomorrow and then I can experiment with it.


Also, I don't about you guys but I hate when I can't see my pics and other post's pics because of a content filter for work. So, I'm going to switch my photo hosting site that is compatible with at least where I work so that more people in the same situation should be able to see the pictures like at work places.


So, after taping and mudding I'll post some pics and then it's onto the soffits.
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by ImmortalJman /forum/post/21006327


I even have a left over 5gal bucket of Green Glue that I don't need to use. Bids...anyone?

I'm greengluing this weekend, I've got two 5 gallon buckets to use, but if I run short now I know where to get more. PM me your cell # if you want.
 

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Discussion Starter #33
Hopefull this weekend I can get some mudding and taping done. I've already started on some basic filling and patching where some walls didn't join as expected.
 

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Discussion Starter #34
Well I didn't get any taping done, but I did get all the basic filling done and will be ready to start taping and mudding... just as soon as I finish cleaning up all that drywall dust and extra drywall.



I have 4 extra whole sheets of 4x8 5/8" drywall if anyone is interested.
 

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Discussion Starter #35
So finally after what seems like an eternity, the drywall is completely finished, mudding and all. Now, since I'm putting up fabric frames on all parts of the wall, I didn't need to sand or finish it to the level required for painting. But I did do up to my second coat and sand in some places so that it looked a little better than just slopping it on, so to speak. Today, I'm buying supplies for the soffits and will start building that tomorrow. I will be sure to include many more photos during that process that it can give you guys some ideas for your build.


Front




Back




IBeam


Now, because my soffits will go over this area I'm not putting drywall around this but I will be eventually filling that with insulation to keep sound from reverbing off it really badly.

 

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Discussion Starter #36
Finally, the room is taking shape. I got the back room portion started and I finished the blocking for the support and got some of the facing up. Unfortunately I have to go out of town for a little bit and will have to wait to get the rest finish.
But things are progressing fine with it. This was really the part I was worried about the most because nobody wants their soffits to com crashing down. I used this website as a guideline for building mine and it's worked out wonderfully.

http://www.familyhandyman.com/DIY-Pr...g/Step-By-Step


I think several other people have used this site as well and it's worked out pretty good. One thing to keep in mind is that you're probably going to have to improvise on the sizes for yours because in mine, I will actually have slightly wider ones on the sides than in the back...it just worked out dimensionally better that way. So here's some pics to show some of the steps.


Blocking up on ceiling:








The facing:





Now, the hard part is coming up because I will need to partially complete the soffit because I'll have to start building the riser and columns that are kind of a part of it. The columns will be extending to the soffits and some wiring will be traveling down one of them and it has to be isolated from the soffits and the riser so, there's a lot of logistics involved, namely figuring out everything that I have to do in order before I seal up the soffit and make it hard to do any of the stuff on the inside. I am excited though because that means all of this going to take shape pretty quickly...after I get back of course.
 

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Looks good JMan, I found that soffit reference very valuable as well. I must have missed it, what's the dropped down blocking / drywall section in the middle of the ceiling for?
 

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Discussion Starter #38
I believe what you're refering to is the ledger. The main purpose of that is for being able to attach your plywood and drywall to the bottom of the faces and lookouts.


Edit: Ahh, I misread that, the part in the middle of the ceiling is my extra heavy duty blocking for the projectors. Having two projectors hung up there is quite a bit of weight. That blocking will not be see though once I put up the star ceiling sheet and so forth.
 

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Discussion Starter #40
I've got two Epson 8700UB's. It was a great choice for the price and their ability to do anamorphic displaying up to 2.4 which is what I'll be doing. My real challenge will be when I try to do CIH in 3D but the results are great so far in testing. I'm getting really excited to finish this.
 
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