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Discussion Starter #81
Yeah. Mine is the full 36 inches. I finished painting it tonight and the driver is breaking in right now. Hopefully everything turned out OK. I'll find out on Monday. I'll post some more pics with the build as well.
 

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Discussion Starter #82
Well, I completed my goal of getting all the speakers done before then end of the month and the biggest part was getting the subwoofer done, which I ended up doing in 3 days total... in 100 degree heat. Anyways, here are some of the pics of the rest of the build.


After getting the first side drawn on I finally realized the part about drilling holes through both sides so you know where your panels are ( more on this later). So I drill holes through both sides and connected the dots and away I went cutting the other panels.



Panels 1-5 installed. Nothing to difficult here.



And top view with the braces installed. By the way, when you're trying figure out what the height is of the braces because it doesn't give it to you in the document, it's like 2" or something. I got the dimensions by using the Sketchup diagram and it worked out beautifully.




The next couple of pictures are pretty self explanatory from the documentation but, it's as simple as cutting out the appropriate sized panel and then gluing it in. A note on gluing it in later.








So, now some words on gluing. When I did my gluing I didn't put glue on the edge of the panel and did it on the side of the joint with a joint squeegey to make it look neat and sealed. However, when I started to put on the second side, there must've been some extra width or something somewhere and the second side didn't fit as well going on top. So, this meant a lot of clamps and finishing nails from my pneumatic gun, which meant that some of the panels underneath the second side were just a hair off. So, I'm hoping that I got a good glue seal on the top. The bottom side should be fine. However, if I were to do this the next time, I would use screws. They will hold it in place better while the joints are drying and gauruntee a secure hold. So, after finally getting things lined up, I was able to clamp it down for a bit and then do a lot of seam checking and filling where needed. Then I just did some rough sanding all over, including a little rounding of the edges. Then it was just a matter of priming and painting it. I had some leftover Mouse Ears black and that did a fairly good job. I could have done a second coat but it's going to be hidding the whole time so I'm not to worried about the appearance. The driver is broken in and I will be installing that and moving it down into the basement tonight. So without further adue, here's the finished product.




And suddenly, I feel a sudden urge to jump up and down and make tools and stuff (2001 reference btw)
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As for the placement of this I will need to make a stand for it tobe aimed at the ground. I'm going to try and make that tonight and then I will start on the furring strips for the fabric frames.
 

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Wow, 3 days and 100+ heat - how many pounds did you lose building it?



I had to use a hand cart to roll mine around, and over a ramp up a few stairs to get it into place - and yours is even bigger/heavier - good luck moving that beast!


Why can't you fire it up towards the ceiling instead of putting it on a stand and firing down?
 

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Discussion Starter #84
Well, the THTLP is all setup and in place. And I ended up just pointing it at the ceiling and whew:eek:, it's earth rattling. Of course I've been adjusting it so that it's not quite as overbearing. Later when I get some more space cleared out of my computer room I'll move the main HTPC/gaming computer down and start doing some mearsurements so I can see what it looks like before treatment. So, next step is to start working on fabric frames.
 

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I'm sure you'll have a lot of fun with the THT once you have it dialed in (EQed).
 

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Discussion Starter #86

Quote:
Originally Posted by Brad Horstkotte  /t/1345953/skyrun-cinema-build-begins/60#post_22187907


Wow, 3 days and 100+ heat - how many pounds did you lose building it?


I had to use a hand cart to roll mine around, and over a ramp up a few stairs to get it into place - and yours is even bigger/heavier - good luck moving that beast!

quote]


I didn't weigh it at the end before the driver, but it was probably close to 200lbs, or at least it felt like it trying to move it around myself.
But that was only to get it in the garage for painting and drying. I had a friend come over to help me get it down in the basement and with two people, it was cake.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Brad Horstkotte  /t/1345953/skyrun-cinema-build-begins/60#post_22187907


Why can't you fire it up towards the ceiling instead of putting it on a stand and firing down?

I have a wierd soffit thing in front of the stage with the ceiling behind the false wall extending upward. I had originally thought that that would impeded the sound waves or make it sound worse. So, I wanted to have it facing down. But, I decided I would just try it facing upwards and WHOA, I thought the roof was going to collapse (j/k of course), but wow, that made a huge difference compared to when I was just facing it against the wall. My wife nearly jumped out of her seat when she heard it in that position. She liked it btw, and the WAF is always good when it comes to this.


Another awesome thing I'm noticing is that, number one, we couldn't here it outside the house, two, it was bearly audible outside of the theater, and three, this is all prior to me putting on the wall frames and the sound proofing door. Now, I can watch movies at reference (hopefully) at anytime and not worry about bothering anyone.
 

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Discussion Starter #87
Oops, messed up the quote fields above. Hate that I can't edit anymore. But you get the idea.
 

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Discussion Starter #88
So, after having a full week of work off to work on the fabric frames I have got quite a bit done. I, unfortunately, still have a little of the back wall, the back columns, the right column, the half wall, and the stairway to do.
The results look pretty good but there are some downsides to what I've been working with. The method is pretty good and quicker than having to create the furring strips that attach to the wall and ripping strips to make the frames. However, I'm working with a wall that has un even height meaing that if everything were perfectly square, then I would be struggling to get panels to line up without causing weird triangular gaps between panels. (Funny thing is I still ended up with gaps). So, even as much as I wanted to do the perfectly square method, I couldn't really work it so that if match frames next to each other. The other thing was I used cheaper 1x2's from Home Depot which were fine if you picked out the straightest boards. Most of them do have a little warp. So, if your board cuts are shorter then you can work around that. Some of my panels were longer and I delt with any of the curving as much as possible. But even with the straight sides it left me with the uneven wall problems which left me with small uneven gaps between some of my panels.
So, I can't do much to fix that, but my fix is to use the same color of fabric and put it against the wall in those gaps so that it doesn't show up to the eye as much. Now, if you absolutely need really good straight 1x2's; go to Menards and get the premium boards or standard, whatever it's called. But be prepared to drop some dough. Each board is roughly $7.
If I had bought these in place of all the others I would have ran through my budget long ago. I also did not want to rip plywood boards which is why I chose this route. As for the edging, I used base shoe boards that have a nice little round over. The effect is quite nice. I promise, I'll have pics up tonight. I just haven't taken any yet because I've been too busy getting the frames done.


One final thought. I had bought just some good fabric for letting sound through and it matched the colors that I wanted. The problem is that I can't find enough of the same fabric in stock through fabric stores. So, in retrospect, if I had enough money in my budget I would've bought GOM material because then I could've bought huge amounts of the same color fabric...but at 3-4 times the price of what I've paid for the fabric I'm using right now. Oh, well, all my frames are removeable, so I will probably redo them later with GOM. It still looks nice and the colors are pretty close to each other for the different fabrics so it's not too bad.
 

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Discussion Starter #90
Sorry, for the delay. I was delayed due to one of my insatiable joys of theater. 3D. From the onset this was one of the goals and I needed a break from the fabric making. But don't fear, I have pics of my current progress.


It's pretty simple. I didn't make any furring strips along the wall as noted earlier. So, all I needed to do was make a frame, then put fabirc over it, then fill with the appropriate material. In this case OC703 1 and 2 inches or poly batton, depending on where the frame goes.




Here's an example of one of the more complex frames I had to do to fit it around the lips of both the stage and the risers.




Here's the result of one of the walls and the back wall.






And the screen wall.




And here I am enjoying the new Tron : Uprising cartoons. A very good prequel to Tron Legacy.




So, on to the 3D.


I was quite anxious to test out my filters and the required wave retarders that were needed to make it work. I won't give a full setup and specs yet until I have more time to sit down and write it out carefully, because, my particular setup is a little complex and I don't want to miss anything. However, I can report that the detail of dual projection 1080p/24 3D is amazing. And I haven't even enabled the FI engines (more on the importance of this for 3D later). I watched a little bit of Tron Legacy, Toy Story 3, and Cars 2. It was wonderful, no ghosting/crosstalk...at least that was visible to me. I'm am 100 percent happy with the way I created my setup. I had fears from hearing about other peoples' setups in circular polarized situations. But, after doing a lot of research and from a lot of help from rjdam on his 3D research thread ( The Ultimate 3D Projection System ) I have obtained spectacular results. So, for this upcoming weekend I'll get back to the grindstone and complete more frames. I will hopefully post more soon.
 

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Discussion Starter #91
So, I got a little bit done on my 3D and anamorphic setup. I created just a simple frame holder on sliding drawer rails attached to the ceiling it worked out pretty spiffy.




However, I only got a part of the way through making the anamorphic lense. I also ended up testing the viablity of putting the polarizers in front of each anamorphic lense and my sheets are too small for the image coming out of the other side. So, I'm justing going to make do without two lenses and do zooming for any 3D movies that need it. In other news, I'm on a slight delay as I need to find more matching fabric for my walls and will have to wait at least a week or so.
Figures. Anyways, at least it's fully working and even more so when I get the lense up. I got my 3D copy of John Carter in the mail on Friday and watch quite a bit of it. I was thoroughly impressed with 3D quality, and brightness that I was able to achieve with two projectors. I'll post another pic when I get the lense up and running.
 

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Discussion Starter #92
So I got another important piece of the theater working and that would be the anamorphic lens. For a DIY'er version it does pretty well. I moved it into place and got it more or less in place and adjusted. I'll have to do more rough adjustments on the projectors to get them aligned to the screen so that when I put the lens in front I won't have to make any adjustments afterwards. But just judging from a uniformity in shape and chromatic aberration . These are the pics of the lens setup but I won't include pics of the screen until I get the projectors aligned and adjusted properly. The rig itself to move it in place works rather well I must say.



 

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Discussion Starter #94
Sorry for a long wait but I'm finally back and will be starting up on finishing the theater again. More to come.
 

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Discussion Starter #96
Updates Finally

So, this is going to be that last post as an update to this theater build although I welcome any discussion on what I did. The reason is because I sold my house to move to another area and I can't lift the theater with me and go, sadly. But I learned a lot and will be excited for my next theater build when that happens.

So, I wasn't happy with the fabric that I had originally installed nor was I happy with the way the frames fit to my wall. So, I took off all the frames, painted the wall black and started over. I used the original 1x2 furring strips and and put them up on the wall and that is what I would secure my frames to. This time I took 2x4's and ripped 1/4 off each side making it 3in wide and the cut strips of 1 inch thick for my new frame boards. These were much straighter and stronger. I also used pocket holes to make each corner which made them really strong for taking them off and on the walls as needed. I used industrial strength velcro again and stapled each side of the velcro to the wood parts. This made them really strong and kept them from coming off. The problem I had before was that the adhesive worked well but with just the paper lining on the drywall, the adhesive would stick and then the weight and curvature of my wall would just tear right off after a certain time. After all this I replaced the fabric with good old GOM, the anchorage type fabric which is beautiful and stretches just the right amount. It is expensive but in the end it was well worth it. So, really you do get what you pay for and I should've bought that as my choice upfront. Then with my handy electric staple gun I stapled down one side after stapling the top and bottoms, and then I stretched on the opposite side. This gave me a nice even stretch across the entire surface. Then I filled the frames with OC701 and 703 depending on the back wall or other walls. Nothing else has really changed. It looks beautiful and sounds amazing. Here is the final result. By the way, the 3D is amazing and I couldn't have hoped for a better result. Much smoother, brighter and crisper images compared to the typical single movie 3D TV/projector setup. The below image was taken with a slightly longer exposure to show the colors and lighting of the area, but in reality is much darker as my entrance lighting with the sides and sconces going out but leaving the soffit lights on for movie watching.



Here is the stairway with one backlit movie poster. It was really simple to build and relatively inexpensive to do following this guide: http://imgur.com/a/gwMXj I just didn't need the dimmer switch and I got a flexible LED kit from amazon which did the job just as well.



By the way I have a pretty good portion of my OC701 left, I think 22 sheets up for a cheap price and 55 yds of the GOM which is enough to do the same size theater as mine and some. PM me if you're interested, I need to get rid of it ASAP.
 
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