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Discussion Starter #1
I'd like to build a really nice small subwoofer, something like 16-17'' cube. I want as much 20Hz and up output as possible. Given how "cheap" DIY is compared to commercial subs, I don't really have a budget limitation. I'm curious what is possible when money isn't much of a concern when building a small subwoofer.

Now I'm wondering, for max output above 20Hz, is it better to go with a 12'' woofer and use 2 or 3 PR's with it, or use a 15'' driver and put it in a sealed enclosure?

For each design, any recommendations on the driver?

Thanks
 

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MTX 9515 or SI HST15.

I have never modeled any of this but I would be surprised if you could find PRs that could handle the big xmax 12s that you would need to outperform the big xmax 15s. But I could be wrong.
 

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for max output above 20Hz, is it better to go with a 12'' woofer and use 2 or 3 PR's with it, or use a 15'' driver and put it in a sealed enclosure?
Model both, look at the Maximum SPL charts and you'll see. You have to anyway to come up with a design.
 

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A 17" cube properly done/braced will give you at most--around 2.4 cubic feet of airspace

A 12" sub that uses a PR is a ported enclosure (basically) so requires a larger cabinet than a sealed 15". I run a 12 with an 18" PR in a 4.2 cubic foot box tuned to 21Hz with an F3 of 20Hz.

Now since cost is no object but size is.... stuff a very long stroke 12" or 15" in a sealed box and you'll need EQ to get it flat.

As Bill states, time to run some speaker modeling software and it will show you what to expect.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I'm pretty familiar with modelling software, as I designed and built a tiny cost no object sound dock. From that experience I learned that there is a TON of stuff in speaker building that do not show up in modeling softwares. Hence I'd like to save some time and money by asking for a good way to go before I start because that DIY sound dock project ended up costing FAR more than I expected and taking much longer as well.
 

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I'm curious how this will end up.

I was reading a thread where BFM was saying that Qtc was basically irrelevant when using EQ/LT to shape the response. If that is actually the case AND you aren't worried about long sustained "technoish" basslines overheating the subs...

I wonder how quad opposed 12's or 15's would work.

If you could change the box to a 22" cube then 2x DO 21SW152-4 seem like a monster option.
 

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I was reading a thread where BFM was saying that Qtc was basically irrelevant when using EQ/LT to shape the response.
It's not irrelevant, as it does place limitations on what you can and cannot achieve. But by no means does one need to chase after 0.7. When you consider the affect that the room will have on the result a much higher or lower Qtc may be more appropriate.Using EQ is like adding spices to your food. It can make things taste a lot better, but it won't turn a frozen Salisbury 'steak' TV dinner into a filet mignon. ;)
From that experience I learned that there is a TON of stuff in speaker building that do not show up in modeling softwares.
The accuracy of modeling software is only limited by the skill of the person using it.
 

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that DIY sound dock project ended up costing FAR more than I expected and taking much longer as well.
My relatively minor excursions into DIY tell me that that will be the case with this project, too.
;)
Have fun, though.
:)
 

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Discussion Starter #10 (Edited)
It's not irrelevant, as it does place limitations on what you can and cannot achieve. But by no means does one need to chase after 0.7. When you consider the affect that the room will have on the result a much higher or lower Qtc may be more appropriate.Using EQ is like adding spices to your food. It can make things taste a lot better, but it won't turn a frozen Salisbury 'steak' TV dinner into a filet mignon. ;)
The accuracy of modeling software is only limited by the skill of the person using it.
It's not the accuracy of the modeling software, it just never accounted for it. I never knew dispersion is such an issue with horizontal speakers, or phase and polar responses were really important, or passive radiators can be quite noisy, etc.

Anyways, I've decided I'm gonna go build a 16.5'' cube sub with a Sundown Zv4 15'' woofer, powered by a iNuke NU6000DSP.

A few questions. What's the best material to make an inert subwoofer enclosure? Money is not a problem (to a degree, up to 10x the price of MDF, so unfortunately aluminum enclosures are too much).

Should I get the dual 2 ohm or dual 1 ohm if I'm powering it with the iNuke NU6000?

Thanks
 
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