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I think what I'm trying to say is more officially called an array; just the examples of which are getting way more fancy than what I'm imagining.

Look at the quad tweeter array in this ceiling speaker.


Now, this Danley is more of a clamshell with only 2 planes - perhaps you wouldn't need quite that extreme to fit all 4 in your cabinet.


Maybe it is as easy as adding a cylinder trim ring with a cut angle in it... kinda like the shape this candle is left in right after my favorite Game of Thrones character slices it with Needle.


Or perhaps I'm making this way more complicated than it needs to be. :D
 

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It will be replacing this:

Asking here as this is your thread :)

So, this was about 6ft3? Any stuffing inside?

Do you have any REW measurements of this showing FR?
 

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Discussion Starter · #23 · (Edited)
Asking here as this is your thread



So, this was about 6ft3? Any stuffing inside?



Do you have any REW measurements of this showing FR?


Yes. See my link in the 29$ thread for more info on the box.

I didn’t build it but it’s basically 4 individually sealed boxes together. 6 cf total, stuffed to the brim w polyfil.

Don’t have any graphs of the JBLs, I do of the Infinities that were in there initially.

Since they modeled similar in WinISD to the Infinities I’d assume it would be similar.

That said this box is on the SIDE of my room not directly behind as I assume you will be doing. So my measurements might not be super helpful to you.

Hence why I’m looking at redoing the box at a later date. The middle and main seats are 4-6 feet from them.

It’s not in this picture but they sit along that gray wall on the side.




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk (so ignore any typos grammatical errors because my iPhone predictive text stinks)
 

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^^^Got it. Still would like to see REW pic ;)
 

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Discussion Starter · #25 ·
^^^Got it. Still would like to see REW pic ;)
Ok, give me a bit to find the Infinity REW graph. With a full house, grabbing another graph of the JBLs isnt likely anytime soon lol....
 
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Yes. See my link in the 29$ thread for more info on the box.

I didn’t build it but it’s basically 4 individually sealed boxes together. 6 cf total, stuffed to the brim w polyfil.

Don’t have any graphs of the JBLs, I do of the Infinities that were in there initially.

Since they modeled similar in WinISD to the Infinities I’d assume it would be similar.

That said this box is on the SIDE of my room not directly behind as I assume you will be doing. So my measurements might not be super helpful to you.

Hence why I’m looking at redoing the box at a later date. The middle and main seats are 4-6 feet from them.

It’s not in this picture but they sit along that gray wall on the side.




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk (so ignore any typos grammatical errors because my iPhone predictive text stinks)

Why can’t you use the current slim box behind the left couch and the new one where the slim one was? It is so slim, i bet nobody would notice if you moved it there silently ;)
 

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Discussion Starter · #27 ·
P.S. Here is a my floor plan showing sub locations.
Why can’t you use the current slim box behind the left couch and the new one where the slim one was? It is so slim, i bet nobody would notice if you moved it there silently ;)
I'm confused. The slim box I have already is located back left (in red). Thats where it will be until I rebuild it, and then the new iteration will still be in the same spot. The reason for the rebuild is to space the drivers closer to each other and adjust the dimension of the box to align with the slant of the back of the sectional better.
 

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I was referring to the pic in my quote. In that pic you have the slim box behind the right couch section now, correct?

Put the new box there, as you planned.

But your MLP is in the left couch section with the hallway behind it ?

You now have a leftover slim box and four leftover 12", correct?

Put the slim box with those 4 behind that left couch section(your MLP) right up against the back of the couch.

Voila all 16x12" in use :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #29 ·
I was referring to the pic in my quote. In that pic you have the slim box behind the right couch section now, correct?

Put the new box there, as you planned.

But your MLP is in the left couch section with the hallway behind it ?

You now have a leftover slim box and four leftover 12", correct?

Put the slim box with those 4 behind that left couch section(your MLP) right up against the back of the couch.

Voila all 16x12" in use :)
Wife didn't want that, and I'm pushing it a bit as it is with 4 subs lol..... Otherwise I'd have two boxes spanning the entire length of that section with all 16 drivers lol......
 

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Wife didn't want that, and I'm pushing it a bit as it is with 4 subs lol..... Otherwise I'd have two boxes spanning the entire length of that section with all 16 drivers lol......
You need to be creative man. Instead of a big black box, do what i did: make the box look like something else ! Search for «3D wall paper» on ebay. There is soooo many cool ways to make that box disseapper with a creative wall paper, like my sonos. I am thinking about something similar on my new boxes ;)

Heck, what about making it look like a aquarium? Ask your wife what she would want :)

And hey: one narrow «creative» slim box behind your MLP with all 16 would be much less intrusive and much more effective than all those big subs placed around the room.
 
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Discussion Starter · #31 ·
You need to be creative man. Instead of a big black box, do what i did: make the box look like something else ! Search for «3D wall paper» on ebay. There is soooo many cool ways to make that box disseapper with a creative wall paper, like my sonos. I am thinking about something similar on my new boxes ;)



Heck, what about making it look like a aquarium? Ask your wife what she would want :)


Trust me, been there, not happening lol...

I’ve suggested I make it look like a buffet table, build it like a half wall that was part of the floor plan w the house, just about any possible way and it’s just not worth the fight :).

I mean I’m getting 12 drivers as is, not worth the fight for the other 4 in another box.

I’ve thought about converting the Sonotubes fro DO to boxes and then go 2 per side DO. But I’d need bigger boxes and that’s not gonna happen either.

I’m content with what I can do. 4 subs spaced around the corners of the room.

The setup I’ve got will already be amp limited until I buy a third Crown XLS2000 anyway.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk (so ignore any typos grammatical errors because my iPhone predictive text stinks)
 

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Ok then.

How is the project going BTW? Any progress?
 

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Discussion Starter · #33 ·
Ok then.



How is the project going BTW? Any progress?

Not much. Been trying to get my and my buddies schedules aligned and it’s just difficult as we are both super busy (and he’s 3 hours away one way).

Right now my wife has at least made piece with it lol....

Just need to make sure it’s heavy as hell and braced for no vibration......




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk (so ignore any typos grammatical errors because my iPhone predictive text stinks)
 

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Discussion Starter · #34 · (Edited)
Update:

So as I said, I'm a slow burner when it comes to projects. That said I'm due an update.

I've started to order parts for everything to get it together, and also working on the finalized Sonotube plans. I haven't come up with a good name for them yet.


Here is where we stand on parts for both builds:

December 2017: Ordered speaker wire, 60 feet of 14/2 (to connect all three subs to amps) and 15 feet of 14/4 (to internally wire the subs). I am using Furez wire ordered from DouglasConnection. For all you DIY guys out there, I highly recommend Doug. He's based out of Texas, but he's got a lot of good stuff. I like his Furez wire better than the Monoprice stuff I've used in the past, but cables are a sensitive subject around here lol.

Needless to say, take a look at his inventory of connectors and wire, he's a solid fella to deal with and fun to be around (we met at LSAF 2017).



Today: I ordered everything I need from Parts Express. Mainly the speakon connectors, and the quick disconnects for the subs.



I have one remaining order to place, the fasteners. I'm using these ones from @dgage. I prefer them to T-Nuts or Hurricane nuts. I'm going to send some up to @eng-399 to test out as well. I'm going to be placing an order for 120 of them so I can upgrade the entire setup with them and have some left over.



Pics of install from my previous UM18 flatpack build






Then lastly I will be paying my buddy to pick up all the local materials we need for the build, ¾" MDF, Sonotubes, Glue, etc. He will likely do a bunch of the pre work (if not dang near all of it) on the Sonotube subs as he already has possession of 8 drivers and one of my Crown amps to use to test. I will be mailing him some of the fasteners and also some speaker wire/solder and disconnects.

The Organ Donor logo is still a work in progress and I hope to have help from a buddy of mine in 3D printing the logo. I've found a couple cool fonts that are close to what I want, but I still need to draw it out. I will be posting it here once I get it finished. I do not have a time setup to drop the cabinet by my buddy's house yet either.

So that’s where we are for now. I'm hoping to wrap up by summers end, but I'm making no promises.
 
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Nice. I pays to look ahead and have everything ready come assembly time ;)

When i built my sonos, the last ting to arrive was the drivers, so all that was left was assembly :)

Can’t wait to see how all this ends up, and how it sounds ;)
 

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Discussion Starter · #36 ·
Nice. I pays to look ahead and have everything ready come assembly time



When i built my sonos, the last ting to arrive was the drivers, so all that was left was assembly



Can’t wait to see how all this ends up, and how it sounds ;)


In my case the drivers are here which helps for testing the cuts as we go lol.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk (so ignore any typos grammatical errors because my iPhone predictive text stinks)
 
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Discussion Starter · #37 ·
The Sonotubes will be ~3.75 cf and wired to 2 ohms each. In that box I need about 600 Watts to really get em going but I will if all goes to plan, have 1050 on tap per set of drivers so I’m good to go.

I know I said I’d keep the fronts to 3 (so a combined 6), but I need the height to match the mains I’m hoping to do next, and 38” seems to be a decent height for mains, whereas 32 doesn’t cut it lol.

My rear two subs will be about 6cf each and hopefully will each have their own XLS2000 and the fronts driven off a third amp.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk (so ignore any typos grammatical errors because my iPhone predictive text stinks)
 
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Discussion Starter · #38 · (Edited)
Necro bump.....

So for those of you who thought I was kidding in my first post about being a slow burn, I obviously wasnt. I do have a spirit animal.



Its obviously been winter, and my buddy and I have been busy with our families and respective work. That said, I was looking at my Organ Donor build and wondering the following:

Should I make it Dual Opposed instead of all 4 drivers front firing? That would help reduce the cabinet vibrations, which is good since there will be a lamp and some other items on top of this.

This is what I'm looking at now (front firing)...




Additionally it would make placing the drivers a bit easier and not nearly as cramped. But I'd likely have to decrease the depth of the build, and I also dont know how the drivers would react to being literally 1-2 inches from the wall. Would that cause response issues?

Thoughts appreciated.

P.S. I'm hoping to get restarted on this build in the next month or so, weather permitting.
 
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Discussion Starter · #39 ·
....I was looking at my Organ Donor build and wondering the following:



Should I make it Dual Opposed instead of all 4 drivers front firing? That would help reduce the cabinet vibrations, which is good since there will be a lamp and some other items on top of this.



This is what I'm looking at now (front firing)...









Additionally it would make placing the drivers a bit easier and not nearly as cramped. But I'd likely have to decrease the depth of the build, and I also dont know how the drivers would react to being literally 1-2 inches from the wall. Would that cause response issues?



Thoughts appreciated.



P.S. I'm hoping to get restarted on this build in the next month or so, weather permitting.

Anyone?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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I would think the "array" setup with all front firing would be better. I can't really imagine more benefits of firing a woofer at a wall at close proximity, but I don't have enough experience or theory knowledge to be definitive. Hopefully someone can chime in.
 
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