Brah, I want your house lol. Gorgeous siding and view
Thank you for sharing. To be proud for sure.The raw height of the room was 12’ 4”, put under the garage. The lot slopes away on that side of the home so in reality it’s only 4’ or so below grade, didn’t have to excavate quite that much. In fact we would have had to build up to fill in the garage foundation.
This shot is facing the same direction, the concrete side of the home there would be the left wall of the theater in the shots above. You can see my theater mini split there as well.
Thanks, sounds like you have a good plan. Even better to be able to use materials on hand. I would be less worried about rolling that much material, more concerned about how to ensure it will span that distance horizontally without sagging or wrinkling. I do think there’s a solution involving webbing or something taking the brunt of the tension and the fabric just attaching to that, might be tricky.Wow, what great timing! I started looking yesterday for a DIY motorized masking solution (after getting a quote for a Seymour Screen Excellence one and about choking! Their TRIM one isn't toooo bad, but only goes to 150". I figured it'd be a premium going to the TAM 2-L, maybe 50%. Let's just say it was significantly more.). This is basically exactly what I want. I'll be following your same design for the most part. I already have a house full of RS-485 Somfy Motors (Sonesse 30s, a Glydea (dry contact at the moment), and an LT50, but that's one's on a ZWave adapter), and I wrote all the integration myself, so I figured I'll go with LT50 motors, since the LT40 isn't available with RS-485. It also gives me plenty of extra torque, as well as being a bit faster (I did the 38rpm, times by a 2.5" tube should be really fast). In some ways the other motor parts are easier, since I don't need to have any size adapters, but the downside is I had to figure it out myself . Hopefully I got it right! Everything is ordered except for fabric. I'm going to go with Seymour CenterStage UF. Prime seating position will be ~12' from a 180" wide screen, so I wanted the even finer pattern of the UF over the XD. And it's cheaper? Weird. Maybe cause the gain is lower. Anyhow, I'll let you know how it goes. It'll be a little bit - everything is already wired, insulation comes tomorrow, drywall in the next week or two. Then depending on if I can get ahold of a carpenter or if I have to do it myself (I'm fairly basic for the rest of the room design), I should be building my screen in the next couple weeks.
A couple of notes on your post that you might want to edit:
- As has already been noticed, AVoutlet no longer sells Somfy Motors direct, so that link is broken
- The TNutz link for the 1515 extrusion is bad. AFAICT, they don't list the ultra-light anymore, only a light. They seem to be on sale at the moment, so I did two of them silver, and two black.
- The link for the SLB680R actually points to SLAMLS40 (I think someone else pointed this out too)
- You don't list what kinds of t-nuts and screws you used to attach the screen grommets. I kinda guessed from your video, and did QT-015 drop in quarter turn nuts, and 5/*" flat head cap screws, #10-32 threads. I also got some 7/8" socket head cap screws as the initial "posts". Hopefully they slide right through the grommets.
One last thing - the magnet and the plate on the frame border look cool, but your details on that were pretty vague. Which magnets did you use? How did you recess them in? What plates did you use? How did you attach them on the boards you did attach them to permanently? Can you show how exactly everything locks together? It looks like you did plates on the bottom sticking up, then on the sides sticking up, and no plates on the top, so you'd lift of the side, angle it behind the top board, then let it "drop down" on top of the bottom board. Did I get that right?
Oh, one other thing I'm going to try, is to use a screw-in coax cable clip like https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07ZWB48JC to attach the shock cord to the sliders, instead of an eye hook, in an effort to reduce the distance between the frame and the screen. Also depending on how things go, I may try to do a full-close. I'm mostly worried about spacing of the rollers and being able to wind up that much material, as well as tension on the shock cord. I'm still only doing the 3" wide channel for the top and bottom - I think you're right that I'll be able to get the aluminum bars to meet in the middle with the sliders in the same track. If it doesn't work, it doesn't work, and I'll fall back to a 4:3 max close.
That’s a great story, thanks for sharing! It’s a shame really that there isn’t more DIY info out there around the Somfy ecosystem.This seems like a good place to put this: what great timing! My one ST50 motor running an actual roller shade stopped working tonight. As of this week, I now have the knowledge to take it apart, recognize that the drive had fallen off the motor, know how to put it back, and even had a spare drive stop that I know I won’t need for my screen to prevent it from happening again! (The shade installers used slightly different parts for everything, and no stop, and my older ST50 motor didn’t have the detent thingy to keep the drive on itself). And I also finished my software yesterday that I was able to reset my limits lickety split. It was a relief to only take ~10-15 minutes to fix it, pretty much stress free, rather than hours of tinkering, a call to the shade company, days of waiting for them to come, hours of them figuring it out, and a pricey bill. So thanks @sor for pointing me in this direction anyway .
Cool, let us know what you come up with. 4:3 to full open is a lot less demanding so if you can pull of a full close it’s definitely worth sharing how you did it.I got my TNutz shipment today!
You’re right, tension’s a *. I got it working on full close, but it’s touchy to keep it straight. It’s got to be just tight enough to still tug all the way closed, but not so tight that it’s not stretching at full open. And keeping things straight with that much movement might prove a challenge. It’s interesting that my top rope is much looser than the bottom, and it’s perfect. We’ll see how it goes when I actually get fabric on there. If it’s not a clean close, I just won’t worry about it and set 4:3 as my max. If it is, I might need to use a pulley to get more range on my rope. And I’m already thinking of ways to keep the top from sagging - either Kevlar thread or a very light carbon fiber tow threaded right along the top.
I'll start a thread once I get going
So I finally posted my video and started a thread. You can find the YouTube link in my thread:So as I mentioned about a month ago, I will start a thread once I get going on mine. I've produced a YouTube video of my entire build that I am just doing final edits to. Completed my build in 10 hours. I'll start a thread and post it in a couple of days Building the suspense!
Nice, great job! Love the controls.It works! Been quite a journey. Mostly waiting for drywall and carpet - I did everything else myself. I still need to build the trim/frame for in front of the screen, but the masks are up and working. A couple of notes:
- I got a SeymourAV UF screen. Their precision cut was not very precise. I ended up having to order grommets and tools, stretch the screen around the extrusions, mark new holes, take it all down, put new grommets in, put it back up, then trim the extra. Considering half the cost of the actual screen was the grommets, you may want to consider ordering the fabric and just doing it all yourself in the first place.
- I found the hardest part of getting the masks on was getting them wrapped around the aluminum bar straight, and to stay. I used packing tape with half on the mask, and half on the bar. Then wrapped once. I had cut my mask the exact same width as the bar, so I drilled holes through the mask to line up with the hole for the bar, and secured the slider. This held it decently, but it was still a little loose in the middle, and I can hear the tape when the mask moves. Luckily, attaching the other end to the shade roller was much easier. I had secured the bar in its tracks at a perfect length to stretch as far as I could and reach the double-stick tape that came on the roller. went on nice and straight, and rolled up just fine. Probably 3-4 full rolls between the "end" and my 4:3 end stop.
- Make sure your tensions cords are secured tight. The twisty anchor came out of the track on one of mine when I was testing, and I've got a nice 1/2" gouge in my wall now. Whoops.
- When I cut my masks, I cleared a nice large area, laid it flat, and used my laser to set a nice straight line against marks at the correct width at both ends. Photo attached. Then I used a rotary cutter and a very large cutting mat to work my way along (my wife is a quilter, so such tools are already on hand). I still trimmed a bit once I had it on the screen, but before I rolled up, since I had cut it to the full 81" (75" + 3" + 3" for my 180x75 screen) so that it wouldn't interfere with the brackets on the shade tube. But everything was beautifully square for putting it up!
View attachment 3128347 View attachment 3128349
And without further ado, the video:
I’m using the Baritone velvet. I also don’t really have any bright lights in the room so any waves or folds aren’t visible. My one complaint was that the baritone lacks structure and wants to drape. Maybe if it were bonded to the millibel that would be the best of both? Or maybe just too thick or heavy@sor : what material did you use for your mask? I used SeymourAV's Millibel AT backing, but I've been less than impressed with it in terms of absorbing light and giving me a nice crisp edge. I've been thinking of wrapping just the aluminum bar with velvet, and still doing the AT Millibel for the majority. SeymourAV's speaker grill material is much darker than the Millibel, but doesn't come in a large enough width for my screen.