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Discussion Starter #1
My first non car audio project was a simple ported 12" with a plate amp. In typical AVS fashion, that was replaced by an 18" and an inuke. Which left me with a ported 12 that couldn't find a place in the lineup. So I built a THT with a 12.

The driver just happened to be one of the two recommended 12s for the THT. Dayton RSS315HF-4 and a Dayton SPA250 plate amp.

The box and materials cost approximately $100. Build took about 2 weeks working an hour or two each night. Used 3 tubes of PL and a whole bunch of 1-1/4 brads.



Here is all of the wood cut down to 16" widths. Side panels not shown. 2 full 4x8 sheets of ply. I could only find the crappy 3 ply + veneer. So I sealed all edges with PL to prevent delamination.




This is what was left over.




Here she is with the top off. Can for reference. Didn't put in the mouth braces until after the top was put on so I could line up that side panel with the top. With the braces installed you don't have much room for error.




Driver mounted. Lots of room when using a 12.




Access panel with terminal cup recessed and rounded over so it could be pushed up against a wall as close as possible.




My favorite pic! Looks like it means business.




Size comparison vs a martycube.




This is the only useful measurement so far. This was taken with the umik placed right at the edge of the mouth. The two lines represent the spa 250 with and without the boost turned on. No other eq. This was done while hooked up to an old HTIB avr so I can't be sure if it has a built in HPF or what type of roll off it might have. If nothing else it shows what effect that boost switch has. It appears to not only boost but also changes the HPF. Better measurements will come after I move this thing into the main room and get it hooked up properly. I might take it outside but no promises.




Even in its current situation it can get seriously loud. Louder than my ported SI18. But not lower. It delivers that chest cracking bass that everyone seems to be after for music. The 18 will dig lower, but I'll reevaluate after everything is sorted out.

This build isn't very difficult but it's not for a beginner. Mistakes are more costly than regular boxes and there are alot of cuts to make. I'm not sure which sub I'd keep if I had to pick. The 18 will probably be better for strictly movies while the THT would win out for strictly music. They both give up a little to do both. The THT is cheaper though. Fortunately I'm keeping both. :)
 

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You do very nice work. Very clean build. I built four T48s and my internals are pretty sloppy compared to your work. :eek: Thank goodness for the awesomeness of PL and Duratex hides a multitude of errors. :D


I assume you went with a 12" driver due to space considerations? I've never heard a THT with a 15" driver, but from what I've read they are pretty formidable. Knowing what my T48s do, especially v-plated, I'm all about drinking the horn Koolaid.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks. There are some sloppy PL smears here and there but I tried keeping it neat. An old paint scraper on hand worked well to quickly scrape away any PL messes.

I chose the 12 for no other reason than already having it and the amp. Just took the same equipment and upgraded the cab.

One of these with a 15" has to be intense. I can only imagine what an LMS loaded horn can do.
 

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very clean sweet and easy and an incredible "bang for the bucks" :D
good to see :)


thanks
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Thanks guys.

My plan is to paint it the same color as my walls. Then I'll add the same trim as my room to the bottom. Then add a mantle style top on it with some more trim. Up against a wall hopefully it will look like a fireplace without the fire. Possibly some fake cabinet doors on the front face if it needs it.

This has showed me that you don't need to spend a lot to get a lot. You just gotta put in some work. This can be had for maybe $400 with some good deals. Even cheaper probably with the Lab 12.
 

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Thanks for posting this Samps!

I'm about the do pretty much the same thing. I'm going to be building a 12" THT using a Rockford Fosgate P2D2-12. It has very similar specs to the Dayton RSS315HF you used. I'm going to build mine with a 15" panel width. I'm glad to hear yours worked out so well!
 

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Discussion Starter #11
If I were to suggest any deviation from the plans it would be to not cut the second 3x3' panel to the final size. I'd recommend cutting it to 37"x37". That will allow you to be a little off during construction and give you a little lip to flush trim when done. One of my side panels bowed out a smidge when I installed the brace which caused the 3x3 panel to not match up perfectly.

This will make transferring the panel edge layout to that side more difficult but I think it might be worth it if you can figure out that transfer.
 

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unless its BB most 1/2 ply is a challenge to stabilize
but I've built 3 THTLP's so what did i know?
If you spend any time over at the BF site and read
between the excellence of the sales "pitch" and the support and enthusiasm and the "you can do it' flow,

you have to work at it to fail

And the notion of the oversized last panel is exactly what I have waiting to cap off the 2 Lhorn cabs STILL waiting for 2 very tender lovingly made UXL's
 

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Thanks for the tip Samps. My standard practice when enclosure building it do just that, cut the piece oversize and trim down later. I get a lot of milage out of my router and flush trim bits :)

I'm planning on building mine out of 1/2" baltic birch. In my area for 1/2" plywood the baltic birch only costs a marginal amount more than any other decent options.
 

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Discussion Starter #14 (Edited)
I used the birch from Lowes. It's flat and had no voids. Kinda expensive, especially since I'm not going to stain it.

Another suggestion if you're not using a table saw is to cut all of your panel widths. Then find the smallest panel out of the bunch and use it as a template to flush trim all of the other panels. The stack of panels laying on my desk are all exactly the same due to this method.

I still had two high panels that needed the belt sander. I used a long straight edge laying across the edges of all the assembled panels, and sanded until they were all perfectly flat. Using different amounts of PL can lift a panel a tiny bit making them a bit off. I probably went a little overkill on that but it made me feel better about it. Peace of mind is underrated!

I also picked up a set of those yellow rubber caulk tube cap things for $3. Most would say waste of money, a screw works just fine. But I'll say it was the best $3 I've spent in a long time. I removed the dagger thing out of them and used them with no trouble through the whole build. And they're still like new. PL doesn't stick to them and they seal the tube so well that none of it dries up so it's ready to go anytime. You can see one in one of my pics.

 

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Even in its current situation it can get seriously loud. Louder than my ported SI18. But not lower. It delivers that chest cracking bass that everyone seems to be after for music. The 18 will dig lower...
That's to be expected when you build the cab that narrow, as sensitivity in the low end is based on the mouth area. The best result comes if you build it a full 36 inches wide, but that's not practical for most of us. 24 inches is probably the best compromise, but that's still a pretty big box.
 
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