AVS Forum banner
1 - 20 of 61 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
479 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Word to the wise a friend of a friend is no friend of yours!



I had someone do the framing for my basement. Unfortunately I was out of town and did not see his work until he was done. I think I might have to tear down his soffit work. I see splits in the wood and talking with Big, I should be able to 'hang from it" without pulling out. I am not a large man, just shy of 175lbs, and I didn't even put my full weight on this when pop!




I took some pictures of some of the other beams on the soffit that have split.






I think I should just rip it all down and put it up using 2x2 and screws.


Opinions?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,217 Posts
What you have there is pretty typical for a standard framing job.



Unfortunately, that is one of the problems using thin dimensional lumber (2x2s) and using a nail gun....they will split like crazy when shot near the ends. You can avoid those by predrilling a hole and screwing them in.


For my soffits, I used enough framing nails to hold everything together and then used decking screws for strength.


In case you haven't noticed, we like to go overboard on this forum!
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
2,247 Posts
I doubt anyone else would do much better. If everthing is plumb and square I'd dust of the drill/screw gun and drill and sink a number screws to secure the splits plus one extra at everyone securing point to maximize a reduction in possible audible vibration sources and be done with it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
479 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by Hughman /forum/post/18266984


I doubt anyone else would do much better. If everthing is plumb and square I'd dust of the drill/screw gun and drill and sink a number screws to secure the splits plus one extra at everyone securing point to maximize a reduction in possible audible vibration sources and be done with it.

So use screws to close up the split so to speak?


Big, I am the one that PMd you and you needed pictures...


Since I have you guys looking, He also did the other side of the basement and made a low hanging ceiling that spaned the width of the room. By the looks of it, it wouldn't hold up drywall from the looks of it...

 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
2,247 Posts

Quote:
Originally Posted by LexMan /forum/post/18267377


So use screws to close up the split so to speak?


Big, I am the one that PMd you and you needed pictures...


Since I have you guys looking, He also did the other side of the basement and made a low hanging ceiling that spaned the width of the room. By the looks of it, it wouldn't hold up drywall from the looks of it...


Good Lord, I hereby recant my previous advise somewhat. Obviouxly it's a judgment call, fix it by ripping it out and start fresh or kludge a few fixes.


After looking at that again, I'm more shocked. What the hell was that guy thinking or should that be drinking?
 

·
RETIRED theater builder
Joined
·
36,377 Posts




It is really hard to see what is supporting this mess and what the span of those various sections are. I can not say for sure that it would stay up from what I see. I also don't see the purpose for this particular single level design that is bisected in the middle. It also looks like you would end up with a less than flat uneven ceiling if you attach drywall to that mess.


While it may be embarrassing if you could take some wider angle shots with better lighting we may be able to help you.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
685 Posts
If you decide to try and fix it instead of ripping it down, you may want to get a box of steel joist hangers for all the cross braces. That will secure most of those pieces above. Then just replace the handful of boards that are too short.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
479 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by BIGmouthinDC /forum/post/18267482



It is really hard to see what is supporting this mess and what the span of those various sections are. I can not say for sure that it would stay up from what I see. I also don't see the purpose for this particular single level design that is bisected in the middle. It also looks like you would end up with a less than flat uneven ceiling if you attach drywall to that mess.


While it may be embarrassing if you could take some wider angle shots with better lighting we may be able to help you.

I uploaded a couple of shots from my camera phone. Thanks for going easy on me guys as this is a real sore spot and frustration.






I think if I am careful, I could cut along the framing he did for the heating duct I would be ok. I know there are not good pictures, but hopefully you can see what I am describing.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,011 Posts
Lexman,


I'm feeling for you. If this were me; I would pull down all of the 2x2 work in the ceiling inlcuding the soffitts, and start over. I'm thinking you could get out your chop saw or miter saw and salvage 50~60% of the 2x2s by trimming away and discarding the damaged ends..?


FWIW:

I built my soffits from 2x2 "ladder" frames. I pre-drilled and screwed them together on the floor and then "hung" them from the ceiling joists. The biggest challenge was finding good straight 2x2s.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,877 Posts

Quote:
Originally Posted by LexMan /forum/post/18272160


I uploaded a couple of shots from my camera phone. Thanks for going easy on me guys as this is a real sore spot and frustration.






I think if I am careful, I could cut along the framing he did for the heating duct I would be ok. I know there are not good pictures, but hopefully you can see what I am describing.

Wow, that's pretty amazing framing
Sorry you have to deal with it.


At minimum (if you don't rip down and redo), I would replace the "too short" 2x2's you show in post #5 with ones of correct length, and nail/screw some additional vertical support 2x2's from the "mid-span" 2x2 run you show in the last pic above to the joists above it. I'd be leery of hanging a pair of wet pants on that section to dry, much less hang drywall on it.
 

·
RETIRED theater builder
Joined
·
36,377 Posts




Are there any supports on that middle 2x2 up to the joists? it looks to be floating in air. Can it pass the chin-up test? Without any ties to the ceiling joists there is a good chance that any ceiling will sag/collapse


I also see on the other pictures that the design basically wasted 1 1/2 inches of headroom under the ductwork If you have plenty to spare don't worry about it.


Bottom line if it was my basement I would redo with a totally different approach using a ladders down design rather than spanning with the 2x2s. Also just a FYI the way the soffit framing meets the wall framing is not fire spread code compliant at this point. Additional blocking would be required.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
542 Posts
Call Mike Holmes! I think he can use your basement in one of his shows!!


Sorry, I had to say it. That 2x2 framework doesn't look like it would even hold up a sheet of drywall!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
519 Posts
Sorry, but that last picture is hilarious. I would think it would take longer and be more difficult to frame like that rather than doing it properly.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,604 Posts
LMAO......wow! I would just redo it. I hope you didn't pay that guy.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,018 Posts

Quote:
Originally Posted by BIGmouthinDC /forum/post/18272923




Are there any supports on that middle 2x2 up to the joists? it looks to be floating in air. Can it pass the chin-up test? Without any ties to the ceiling joists there is a good chance that any ceiling will sag/collapse


I also see on the other pictures that the design basically wasted 1 1/2 inches of headroom under the ductwork If you have plenty to spare don't worry about it.


Bottom line if it was my basement I would redo with a totally different approach using a ladders down design rather than spanning with the 2x2s. Also just a FYI the way the soffit framing meets the wall framing is not fire spread code compliant at this point. Additional blocking would be required.

For your safety, please don't attempt the chin-up test on any of that framing spanning the room.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
364 Posts
definitely redo. Why is he running the soffit from the HVAC trunk all the way to the wall...is this how you wanted it done? At the very least, you only need to run some parallel 2x4's across your joists to bring the drywall down far enough to cover those pipes running along the trunk lines. If it were me...I wouldn't span that soffit all the way across like that. Use the ladder method to cover the trunk line and then use 2x4's to build your joists out enough to cover the pipes.
 

·
RETIRED theater builder
Joined
·
36,377 Posts

Quote:
Originally Posted by Spaceman /forum/post/18276950


For your safety, please don't attempt the chin-up test on any of that framing spanning the room.

Actually I think it would make a good Youtube video.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
232 Posts
You have to redo it. Go watch just about any Holmes on Homes episode and you'll see that its a big no-no to frame like that. It wont hold the weight and even if it did it would be cracking in no time.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7,780 Posts
LexMan, if you'd like, send me a PM with your email and I'll send you a soffit building article.
 
1 - 20 of 61 Posts
Top