It looks as though the repeated button pushes may have flexed the female connectors until they broke from the board.
Perhaps there's an electro-mech component that is flexing the board itself or perhaps the mounting plate is loose or flexes. Tough to tell without being there.
You can solder new females to the board (and make sure you replace the females or the joints won't be structurally sound, as the old ones will be relying on a tiny area of solder contact), but you should ensure the button, board and mounting plate remain in a static relationship, to prevent recurrance (IOW, nothing moves/flexes).
Personally, to prevent using a lot of heat, I'd like to solder just the females to the board, but alignment would then become critical. Plus, you might not be able to get the button through the plate without loosening the board from the plate. Again, tough to tell without being there.
As an alternative, it would make things a lot easier, and more dependable, if you made two pigtails; crimping each new insulated female (and these should be insulated) to its own piece of insulated wire and soldering the wires to their respective holes in the board.
Then mount the button inverted or sideways and push the females onto the lugs. If you do this, the button must be anchored to the plate.
The wires will then allow plenty of movement without fracturing the solder joints.
A cheap, low-watt pencil and some rosin-core will do the pigtails.
But, if you solder the button assembly back to the board, it'll take a hotter iron/gun, and you should use paste flux too.
No guarantees, just my thoughts.
Now, back to baseball.
Perhaps there's an electro-mech component that is flexing the board itself or perhaps the mounting plate is loose or flexes. Tough to tell without being there.
You can solder new females to the board (and make sure you replace the females or the joints won't be structurally sound, as the old ones will be relying on a tiny area of solder contact), but you should ensure the button, board and mounting plate remain in a static relationship, to prevent recurrance (IOW, nothing moves/flexes).
Personally, to prevent using a lot of heat, I'd like to solder just the females to the board, but alignment would then become critical. Plus, you might not be able to get the button through the plate without loosening the board from the plate. Again, tough to tell without being there.
As an alternative, it would make things a lot easier, and more dependable, if you made two pigtails; crimping each new insulated female (and these should be insulated) to its own piece of insulated wire and soldering the wires to their respective holes in the board.
Then mount the button inverted or sideways and push the females onto the lugs. If you do this, the button must be anchored to the plate.
The wires will then allow plenty of movement without fracturing the solder joints.
A cheap, low-watt pencil and some rosin-core will do the pigtails.
But, if you solder the button assembly back to the board, it'll take a hotter iron/gun, and you should use paste flux too.
No guarantees, just my thoughts.
Now, back to baseball.
