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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi all,


Pretty basic setup and questions here. I'm going to install a flatscreen on an internal living room wall, but want just the tv there (no cabinet below). The plan was to tap off the power outlet on the bottom of the wall and install a second about 4 feet up where the tv will be. As for components, I think I'll have maybe 2-3 devices (tivo, BluRay, and maybe an Xbox or Wii, but I'd like them installed on the opposite wall where the couch will be. I have about a 12' run from tv wall to component wall, and should be able to snake wires through the drop ceiling in the basement below.


Regarding the component wires being snaked, I just want to do this once and not have to worry about it. Can someone assist with the following questions?


1) For HDMI, I've seen in-wall and regular cables. Any reason why I can't go with the cheaper, regular ones? I'm thinking the most I'll need is a 20-25' run of HDMI.


2) For the terminal ends, am I better to have a wall plate with an HDMI female receptacle (thus having 3 total HDMI cables to connect the tv > wall run > component) or just a single HDMI cable with one end plugging in to the tv and the other into the component? Concern here is multiple connections vs. single wire.


3) Assuming I should run a line of coax just in case, right? Any other cables that should be pulled just in case? I don't anticipate this tv being used for much more than cable and an occasional movie as we have a finished basement where the kids can game, etc.


4) Anything else to consider when running the wires down the wall about 4' and then across the basement ceiling about 12-15'?


5) As for remote IR/RF extenders, I noticed a few folks recommend the Next Generation Remote Control Extender. Any thoughts on that? Again, it'd be to control a cable box/tivo and maybe a DVD/BR player.


Thanks in advance!


Best,

Mike
 

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Here is what I would reccomend:


1) Use the regular HDMI cable. I suggest you use one that is capable of doing 1.4 a or b. The cables at Monoprice have always worked well for me.


2) Use a single cable from end to end. Terminations cause disruptions and you want to avoid any disruption.


3) You should run an RG6 cable in parralel as well as 4 Cat5/6 cables. One of these Cat 5/6 will be used to transmit your IR control back to your sources. One will be used for Ethernet connexion and 2 as a backup to your HDMI cable using baluns. You should also try to run a Conduit for future proofing of any type of cable you may want to add / change. Run existing wires outside of the conduit and leave the conduit empty.


4) When running cables avoid any and all high voltage cables running in parralel and within 2 feet of your cables. Also avoid any Neon lights.


5)There are plenty of good choices for IR extenders out there. That is one of the choices, keep looking and I would suggest an IR extender using wires. I have had some bad experiences with wireless IR extenders.


Good luck on your project...
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks for the response. A few follow-up questions...


Quote:
Originally Posted by canuck_fr /forum/post/20769409


Here is what I would reccomend:


2) Use a single cable from end to end. Terminations cause disruptions and you want to avoid any disruption.

So do you mean I shouldn't have a wall plate with all of the connections, but rather something like this open wall plate on each end?

Quote:
3) You should run an RG6 cable in parralel as well as 4 Cat5/6 cables. One of these Cat 5/6 will be used to transmit your IR control back to your sources. One will be used for Ethernet connexion and 2 as a backup to your HDMI cable using baluns. You should also try to run a Conduit for future proofing of any type of cable you may want to add / change. Run existing wires outside of the conduit and leave the conduit empty.

Can you explain a bit more as to why I need/want the Cat5/6 cable? I understand it only in computer ethernet usage, but know that it has other uses as well. If I don't want ethernet (internet/network, right), running to the tv then I can eliminate this, right? As for backups to HDMI, can you explain a but more how this works? Is this just in case my HDMI dies and I need to replace, the Cat5/6 with baluns (these are essentially connection boxes, right), would already be there so I don't need to snake wires again?


Also, how do I choose Cat 5/5e/6? Any reason for one over the other?

Quote:
4) When running cables avoid any and all high voltage cables running in parralel and within 2 feet of your cables. Also avoid any Neon lights.

Does this include the power outlet being moved up the wall, or is that considered low-voltage?

Quote:
5)There are plenty of good choices for IR extenders out there. That is one of the choices, keep looking and I would suggest an IR extender using wires. I have had some bad experiences with wireless IR extenders.

So I wouldn't need one of the 4 Cat6 cables if I went wireless with the IR extender?



Thanks again for the time and help!
 

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2) Yes you should avoid having terminations with HDMI cables, so using wall plate such as this one: http://www.outdoorspeakerdepot.com/b...ll-plates.html


3) Tvs now have ethernet connexions to alloy you to use your TV to connect to the internet and to directly stream video from the internet. As for the baluns, they are used to extend a HDMI signal for a longer length and to use for future proofing of your HDMI cables. This is an example: http://www.monoprice.com/products/pr...seq=1&format=2


4) I mean high voltage high amperage: 220 Volts using 20+ amps


5) No need for a wire if you are going with a wirless IR extender.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by canuck_fr /forum/post/20769848


2) Yes you should avoid having terminations with HDMI cables, so using wall plate such as this one: http://www.outdoorspeakerdepot.com/b...ll-plates.html

Ok thanks. That's what I was thinking. Should all wires (RG6, Cat5, HDMI) just be fed through, or should the RG6 and Cat5 have terminal plates?

Quote:
3) Tvs now have ethernet connexions to alloy you to use your TV to connect to the internet and to directly stream video from the internet. As for the baluns, they are used to extend a HDMI signal for a longer length and to use for future proofing of your HDMI cables. This is an example: http://www.monoprice.com/products/pr...seq=1&format=2


Does each set of baluns require 2 Cat5 cables in for every 1 HDMI out? That's what the pic appears to show. Also, how/where would the baluns get installed if I have the open wall plates at each end for the wires? Just trying to get a sense of how everything would be placed.


Thanks again!
 

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The RG6 can be terminated, but the Cat 5/6 should not be terminated. It should be long enough to be used end to end. If you install a Cat 5/6 for ethernet, you may terminate it. The examples I provided require 2 Cat 5/6 cables per run. There are baluns using 1 Cat 5/6 but I don't have any experience with those. I have had good results with the ones I gave you as an example.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Cool, thanks. One last question... Any benefit to buying the Cat5 in bulk and crimping my own ends, thus resulting it more exact cable lengths, or will it not matter if I have a few extra feet coiled up in the ceiling?
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by canuck_fr /forum/post/20769409


3) You should run an RG6 cable in parralel as well as 4 Cat5/6 cables. One of these Cat 5/6 will be used to transmit your IR control back to your sources.


Canuck,


Yet another question... Any reason why I'd want to run Cat5 for IR (and thus need to add 3.5mm stereo connectors on two of the wires) vs just getting a 3.5mm extension stereo cable for the IR transmitter? Is it just a matter of minimizing termination points and future-proofing?


As for the IR repeater, any thoughts on this one?
http://www.amazon.com/Cables-Go-Acou.../ref=pd_cp_e_0



Thanks again... hopefully this is helpful for some other newbies as well.
 

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The solutions I have used were with Cat 5 terminated cables. Your solution should work also. Either should work. However, the Cat 5 wire is better for future proofing.


I have never used that IR repeater, but IR repeaters using wires are more reliable that wireless, and at that price I would definately give it a try. If you do, please write back to indicate how well it works. This could be good for everyone to know.


Good luck...
 
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