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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Let us set the scene -


- Source - - CRT Projector(Barco 1208)

- Location - - Screen will be 2 feet from the wall, new construction so the options are endless.


Now for the questions!


1 - Given that I can use any backing what is the Best backing to use:

A) Sheetrock

B) Blackout material (what kind)

C) Art Canvas (what kind)

D) Old purple pile carpet

E) Other (please explain)


2) - What is the Best application method?

A) Roll it

B) Finger paint it

C) Wagner Power Sprayer

D) Fancy expensive sprayer (what kind)

E) Other (please explain)


3) - Ken, when are you going to have the pre-maid screens complete so the other questions might not matter (and how much doe will I be shelling out)?
 

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Pre made screens are going to be available soon, very soon.


The older formulas, which you folks have been using- are incredibly good. max grade screen in a can.


How good? well, a contractor got ahold of some and was so impressed by the product, that it is going into JPL at Edwards Air Force Base, to be used as the main screen for viewing the Space Shuttle returns. This company plans to use it in many, many places. They are very impressed with it's quality.



The Finished screens, are ALL NEW formulas that go well beyond that. Some Plus Projector reps saw the first install of a finished wall-screen of our latest digital Grey version. (finished screen..but done as a wall instead) They stated that their projectors cannot possibly do the color so balanced and well..and ran out of the store with all the pamphlets to try and be the first to attempt to nail down distribution of this very hot product. There were other powerful incidents as well...


The new digital grey surface renders an almost perfect D6500.. with almost no losses of any kind with extremely solid and punchy dynamics. You can take a standard mercury bulb'ed DLP, or LCD... center the controls so the color balance coming out of the unit is at it's average 9-10K.. but when you shine it on the screen.. the color temp is an almost perfect 6500. Reds, Greens and Blues area all rock solid.. with no losses in punch anywhere.


Anyway, that's the new screen surface..and it is quite the Tiger by the tail we have here.


With centered controls on a PJ, to allow for maximum dynamics and contrast ranging (this is necessary to keep the PJ from going FLAT in it's 3-d characteristics of image quality) the screen will render flesh-tones almost perfectly..under any IRE level.


Sorry for the advert, but you asked.



We also have new CRT finished screen designs on the go, the first one is being tested right now, and it is coming into my living room in a few days. Our screens ar as un-absorptive of light energy as possible. Every little bit of returned energy is important to the viewer so that they may percieve dynamics in an image as properly as possible.


I would advise that you use a compressor based cup gun spayer for the best surface quality, or a HVLP spraying system for the ease of use, and quality of surface possible.


You have to 'micro-stipple' the surface with the sprayer system, so as to achieve a off axis characteristic that is highly viewable and so the gain curve is relatively benign, or flat. This can be done quite easily with the High gain mixes, for those that are familiar with the use of a spray system. For those who are attepmting to use a spray system for the first time, it might be adviasable to use the low gain mix. (they will soom be called rollable, and sprayable, to kill all confusion)
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
That is 2 for 3 Ken. What about the best surface to spray on for the CRT screen paint - Although I think I may have to wait for the finished so I do not have to screw with painting.


Are you going to carry the frames also or just sell the material at first.


Any dollar estimates yet. I will be doing a 7 foot wide 16:9. Feel free to PM me if you do not want to put it in for public viewing.


If you need a tester ship one out and I will be happy to give it a go :)
 

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Any of those substrates are the best.. the screen goo merely needs a flat surface, tht is primed. So, primed dry wall, then our primer and topcoat. same for blackout cloth. With blackout cloth, it is already primed, so one can do away with priming it first. With Aritist's canvas, one can prime that first, as well. Just be sure to use a very tight weave canvas. ('duck' weave).


~~~~~~~~

The finished screen sizes are up to 48"x96", at $1k.. any custom size in that range. After that, it's up to 60"x120", at $1500.


Any screen comes fully framed and completely finished, and ready to hang, in a full sized crate. No other option is available. We are not using conventional surfaces. No compromises. The screens have to come fully finished becase of this fact. It makes for difficult installs in some cases, but we can't do much about that.


On the other hand, you just pop the wooden crate open... and hang it.


Done.


We are taking orders as of this moment.
 

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Ken-

What about painting a Parkland plastics sheet? Would primer be neccessary and/or would the goo even adhere?
 

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Ken - what about screen samples, just as Stewart, etc... will send out to you? I'm waiting on samples from Stewart right now, but have been following your Screengoo developments on this forum. I would love to have sample material to pit up against the Stewart samples.


I'd gladly pay for samples.


-Jon
 

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Our screen materails and designs are different. At this time, this makes it unduly dificult to produce, or send out samples. Not that we don't want to, but cannot, as they actually have to be produced and created..as off cuts from our finished screens. So, it will be a while before screen samples emerge.
 

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Quote:
Originally posted by Steve13
Ken-

What about painting a Parkland plastics sheet? Would primer be neccessary and/or would the goo even adhere?
Parklands plastic has been used many times, as far as I know, as a substrate for Goo product. The primer is still highly reccomended.. it is part of how the screen comes into being and works. The only reason theya re offeredseperately, is so that people can get as much as they need of each product.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Well the pre made screens are out of my price range for now. So I have been trying to find information on the 'micro-stipple' techniques. I have not come up with anything. Ken, can you point me to something that will explain this. I have the opportunity to experiment a bit before I do build the screen, so I would like to see if I could learn how to do this before I use your paint.


.
 

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I think ''micro - stipple refers to spraying with the gun further back from the surface to introduce tiny raised droplets of paint (hemispheres?) which play a part in increasing the gain curve of the screen. The surface feels a bit like super fine sandpaper I believe. Am I correct Ken?
 

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The rougher texture created by the distaince of the spray head is what you want. Th trick is to be consistent in the handling of that spray head, insofar as that distance from the surface of the screen goes. What you are trying to do, is have the paint 'mist' a bit..and then, arrive at the screen surface slightly dry..and stick to the surface in a slightly separate fashion(globular and separate)..instead of 'congealing' and then becoming whole with the surface..and creating a uniform single mass. So, back off a bit..raise the pressure, increase the air mix ..less paint...more air... slightly greter distance with the spray head.


Let it dry slightly between caots.. about 10-15 minutes is enough.


What will happen is that the losses will be high..about 1/3 of the paint will end up in the air, and on the floor.. or everywhere in the room. This is the only way to achieve this surface. The paint loss is no big deal, becase, if you try to conserve it, you end up with the surface you DON'T want. Practice is the key.


The rough surface texture creates a random characteristic to the actual surface and breaks up the surface reflectivity, so that the overall gain curve is flattened out..and you decrease the chance of hot spotting. So, if you use the high gain mix, and mist it on like that, you get a high light return surface..but no hot-spotting.


You get the overall light energy return (to the viewer) of a higher gain screen..but the off-axis drop off characteristics of a lower gain screen. The grain level cannot be too rough, for if it is, you will get a noticable surface texture that can be annoying.


The trick is to get the surface texture just right... and 'micro'stippling' is the best way to achieve this. The perfect 200-400 grit surface texture tends to turn out the best..but is nearly imossible to achieve. You usually end up with something in the 150-200 grit range. Then, the other thing to watch out for , is the texture getting to be too high, meaning individual 'peaks' getting oversasturted with paint. This will casue the peaks of paint to be too big. The paint is attracted to the points that they are closest too..so the peaks can 'build up'. So, it is a tricky game, but after a small amount of practice, it can be done. Electrostatic charge conditions of the surface count for quite a bit as well. Humidity and tempearture are also thrown into the mix of things to deal with. Each time it is different, unless you are in a controlled enviroment.
 

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Glad to hear things are going so well for you. :)


Is shipping 60" X 120" possible or practical to the US? Is it a fabric on a frame, or is the screen on some sort of solid substrate?


I was also thinking about using the painting technique you mention on some type of mesh to produce a sonically translucent (maybe even reasonably transparent with equalization) screen?


What do you think?


Best Regards,

Doug
 

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Shipping is possible, as paintings this size are shipped in crates all the time.This would be nearly identical. The substrate is solid, as there is no compromise in the design. odds are, We should be charging considerably more. the shipping will be the customer's expense, but at our rates. So, allin all, not as bad asit seems. Also, shipping companies like containers that fit along the side wall of a truck. They can take the standard full loads, and the screens as well. They are eager for the business.


As for acaoustically translucent.. the dalite screen sample I was sent took the paint reasonably well, as the amount of plastiizer seems to be muted a bit in that particular screen product type. About 1% of the holes where filled, and I seriously overcoated it, with a wagner power sprayer (worse choice possible).


A good sprayer, with a minimum of care taken, should be able to make a high gain acoustically transparent screen, with no problems at all, with no holes filled.


Another thing I found interesting..was that a person on the forum here, who is 'obstinately' in the coatings industry.. commented on our product as being a 'temporary' screen solution..and felt it was nothing special..and he has/had never seen it, and knows nothing about it!. Gosh......



NOW.... the miltary (360 deg.) flight sim. industry is freaking over the product.....
 

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USD, of course.
 

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Hi Ken,


If you are using USD for your reference, be prepared that it will gradually slide lower for the long-term with a bigger and bigger trade deficit.



Ben
 

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Ken,

Just a suggestion... You should post those spraying instructions on your website. You already have detailed instructions on how to roll screen goo, but none for spraying.


Dave
 

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Sorry, we won't be able to do that anytime soon. Our production costs are quite high per screen. They are -no compromise- screen surfaces.
 

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How did you guys dust off the screen before applying the top coat?


I sprayed my screen last week and after a couple of coats of the primer, I had a lot of dust in the room (from the overspray). According to the directions, the screen goo top coat should be applied to a clean, dust-free surface. So I let the primer dry and then I wiped a rag over of the screen. But as we all know, the screen surface is like fine sand paper (if you use the micro-stiple technique), hence little fibers from the rag were coming off. But I didn't notice this until after I finished wiping the screen, so I had to spend a long time removing all the little cloth fibers before I could spray the top coat. Now if I look real close, I can still see a few fibers stuck to the screen...I may take some tweezers and try to pull them out.


Was this an issue for anyone else? Should I have even bothered to dust off the screen?



Dave
 
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