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I have the 55" Sony A1E OLED. I have a PS4 Pro and the Sony X800 4K Blu-Ray Player. The OLED only have 2 HDMI ports that support full 4K HDR and 60 hz. I want to use the ST5000 with the ARC port on the TV while still using my other two devices. Is there a way to do this? Thank you.
 

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I have the 55" Sony A1E OLED. I have a PS4 Pro and the Sony X800 4K Blu-Ray Player. The OLED only have 2 HDMI ports that support full 4K HDR and 60 hz. I want to use the ST5000 with the ARC port on the TV while still using my other two devices. Is there a way to do this? Thank you.
Plug them into the sound bar? OR take the TV back and get an LG that supports everything on all 4 inputs (it’s ridiculous that the A1E only had two “proper” HDMI inputs).
 

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I think it needs to be IR. What issues are you having? I do know its receiver gets less sensitive with the grille in front.
Basically I don't really want an IR repeater placed in front of the unit. Seems can't have it immediate in front as still doesn't get the signal

So in the Harmony Settings having to opt to control the device via the remote only, which means iOS devices can't control activities it's in.
 

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Basically I don't really want an IR repeater placed in front of the unit. Seems can't have it immediate in front as still doesn't get the signal

So in the Harmony Settings having to opt to control the device via the remote only, which means iOS devices can't control activities it's in.
You don't need the IR repeater in front of the unit. I have my blaster set behind the bar (Harmony Elite).
 

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I have the 55" Sony A1E OLED. I have a PS4 Pro and the Sony X800 4K Blu-Ray Player. The OLED only have 2 HDMI ports that support full 4K HDR and 60 hz. I want to use the ST5000 with the ARC port on the TV while still using my other two devices. Is there a way to do this? Thank you.
X800 should be connected to the soundbar anyway as it's the only way to get Atmos from Blurays.
And I don't want to reconnect PS4 but I think that when connected to the soundbar it is possible to get LPCM 7.1, and if I recall correctly - when passed via ARC/TV it was only 5.1 (not that it matter that much with the soundbar but...)

So - connect your soundbar and TV via ARC and PS4 and X800 to the remaining HDMI ports in the soundbar. Works just fine apart of the need of changing game mode every time you switch BD/PS4.
 

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X800 should be connected to the soundbar anyway as it's the only way to get Atmos from Blurays.
And I don't want to reconnect PS4 but I think that when connected to the soundbar it is possible to get LPCM 7.1, and if I recall correctly - when passed via ARC/TV it was only 5.1 (not that it matter that much with the soundbar but...)

So - connect your soundbar and TV via ARC and PS4 and X800 to the remaining HDMI ports in the soundbar. Works just fine apart of the need of changing game mode every time you switch BD/PS4.
I really appreciate the help. I'm going to purchase this next week and I'm still doing research and trying to complete my new set up. Definitely want to use ARC. Thanks for actually helping and not judging what TV I got. Cheers.

Also, what did you mean I would have to change the game mode every time I switched?
 

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I really appreciate the help. I'm going to purchase this next week and I'm still doing research and trying to complete my new set up. Definitely want to use ARC. Thanks for actually helping and not judging what TV I got. Cheers.

Also, what did you mean I would have to change the game mode every time I switched?
You really definitely do not want to use ARC if you can help it.

What the previous poster said is that if you're watching through the sound bar you're only utilizing one input on the TV. That means if you're playing a video game you'll have to switch to Game Mode in the picture settings, but that if you're watching a movie you'll want to switch to your Cinema Mode preset.

It's a minor inconvenience, but that's the way it is.
 

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I really appreciate the help. I'm going to purchase this next week and I'm still doing research and trying to complete my new set up. Definitely want to use ARC. Thanks for actually helping and not judging what TV I got. Cheers.

Also, what did you mean I would have to change the game mode every time I switched?
The ARC has worked great with previous Sony sound bars. Coupled with a Sony TV and you shouldnt have any issues. I used to use the ARC in my 4K setup with my XB1S, PS4 Pro, and a Roku Ultra with a Sony HTNT3 bar and it worked great.

Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk
 

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The ARC has worked great with previous Sony sound bars. Coupled with a Sony TV and you shouldnt have any issues. I used to use the ARC with my XB1S, PS4 Pro, and a Roku Ultra with a Sony HTNT3 bar and it worked great.

Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk
ARC has certainly worked BETTER with other sound bars. I had an HT-CT770 and it worked a lot better than this ST5000 does in ARC. I still have that old sound bar and switching back and forth between them - the a/v sync lag is hilariously worse over ARC with the ST5000.

You'll have to see how you get on. For me, it's a no-go with my LG C7 OLED.
 

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I might need to send this thing back (open box purchase from Crutchfield).
I'm getting no audio from smartTV apps via ARC (used to work)
The display button works on nothing at this point (standard or enhanced)
Atmos used to work through the xbox one, now I get no sound at all.

I also can't figure out why the soundbar favors my Nvidia Shield box so much--it's plugged in to HDMI 1, and will turn on and off depending if I turn the soundbar on or off. I'm sure it's something in the standby settings, but it's annoying. But it's almost like it's treating HDMI 1 as the ARC slot.
 

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the only time you want to consider using ARC is 1) using TV's App 2) if you don't like hi-fidelity lossless audio format like Atmos TrueHD....cause current ARC can't do lossless, only lossy; lossy Atmos sux. Until eARC arrives.. ARC is lame. If you want to be lame, then that is the path you want to go.
 

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the only time you want to consider using ARC is 1) using TV's App 2) if you don't like hi-fidelity lossless audio format like Atmos TrueHD....cause current ARC can't do lossless, only lossy; lossy Atmos sux. Until eARC arrives.. ARC is lame. If you want to be lame, then that is the path you want to go.
It's for the app. Here's my dilemma in that respect--I have an LG OLED 65eg9600 UA model. So the only way I can view HDR content is either streaming to the TV or stored files on the USB port. So when I watch Netflix, I need to choose between HDR (LG App) or Atmos (Xbox One S). Not much choice for now except when I need to see Okja.

That being said, I'm no longer getting any audio from the TV and audio from netflix stopped working on the Xbox.
 

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wish can give you more advise, but I use the HT-ST5000 in my gaming room with a PC... and the PC pretty much can handle anything (except bluray UHD disc playback)

I have been looking at the Chromecast Ultra to view Netflix/Amazon instead of using the built in Apps... but my understanding is that Chromecast Ultra uses lossy stream as well. so idk... although anything from Netflix/Amazon/Vudu...etc..etc.. will be lossy anyway.
 

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wish can give you more advise, but I use the HT-ST5000 in my gaming room with a PC... and the PC pretty much can handle anything (except bluray UHD disc playback)

I have been looking at the Chromecast Ultra to view Netflix/Amazon instead of using the built in Apps... but my understanding is that Chromecast Ultra uses lossy stream as well. so idk... although anything from Netflix/Amazon/Vudu...etc..etc.. will be lossy anyway.
Thanks; normally I avoid smart TV apps like the plague, but it's really my only option for HDR since HDR doesn't work through HDMI on my TV. Otherwise I am very happy with my NVIDIA shield for everyday streaming/live TV.
 

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So I've been experiencing two issues with my system. Yesterday I was able to play the video clips from the Dolby Atmos App from my Xbox one. Today is a different story. It won't play the sound from the videos. I've read on here that people have been experiencing issues with the HT-ST5000 and Xbox systems. Just wondering if there are any solutions to that? I'm at the point where I'm going to get rid of my Xbox One and see about getting a true blu-ray player for my home AV setup.

The second issue is, I've been experiencing, what I think, might be frequency interference with the wireless subwoofer. When the high bass notes hit I get some sort of clicking sound. I believe that it might be the Direct TV video bridge that I have setup next to my AV system. I read somewhere that the Direct TV video bridge runs on the 5ghz frequency range. I have played with the subwoofer frequency channels with no luck. I did, however, switched the subwoofer over to the other side of my TV, away from the DirectTV video bridge, and I seem to have better luck with the subwoofer. Not sure if anyone else has experienced that, but wanted to share my experience. I'm wondering if I'm OK with setting the subwoofer up on my right viewing side, or does it need to be setup on my left viewing side?

I enjoy the HT-ST5000, but at times I feel like the sound quality is better on some days than others. I have the sound bar connected to a Vizio M60-C3 TV.
 

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DId you try using the Secure Link with the Sub-woofer? That is supposed to help when there is interference. Instructions are in the manual to enable the Secure Link. I know it helped in my setup with a 2015 Sony subwoofer/speaker bar.
 

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So I've been experiencing two issues with my system. Yesterday I was able to play the video clips from the Dolby Atmos App from my Xbox one. Today is a different story. It won't play the sound from the videos. I've read on here that people have been experiencing issues with the HT-ST5000 and Xbox systems. Just wondering if there are any solutions to that? I'm at the point where I'm going to get rid of my Xbox One and see about getting a true blu-ray player for my home AV setup.

The second issue is, I've been experiencing, what I think, might be frequency interference with the wireless subwoofer. When the high bass notes hit I get some sort of clicking sound. I believe that it might be the Direct TV video bridge that I have setup next to my AV system. I read somewhere that the Direct TV video bridge runs on the 5ghz frequency range. I have played with the subwoofer frequency channels with no luck. I did, however, switched the subwoofer over to the other side of my TV, away from the DirectTV video bridge, and I seem to have better luck with the subwoofer. Not sure if anyone else has experienced that, but wanted to share my experience. I'm wondering if I'm OK with setting the subwoofer up on my right viewing side, or does it need to be setup on my left viewing side?

I enjoy the HT-ST5000, but at times I feel like the sound quality is better on some days than others. I have the sound bar connected to a Vizio M60-C3 TV.
How did you even get the XBOX One to work with Atmos in the first place? I run an HDMI cable from the ST5000 to the XBOX One S, and then the soundbar to the TV. I can't even enable Atmos (bitstream) on the XBOX One S's general sound settings without it saying the soundbar doesn't support it, so.. yeah. No idea there.

As to you frequency issue, I'm betting it's the DirectTV bridge causing issues. Wireless is wireless, after all. That should be relatively simple to troubleshoot. A sub can be placed anywhere, in general. In front is generally regarded as ideal, but really, you can only with your setup. In my bedroom, my ST5000 subwoofer is actually to the right of me when sitting in bed, pointing toward the TV! Still sounds superb.
 
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