Sony 722Q - Removal of CRT assistance needed

Any ideas?

CJ,

No go on the twist lock type. They are the type permantly installed in the HV block. I wasn't sure if there was some kind of "trick" to removing the lines. I guess I'm going to have to be extremly careful and pop the anode caps from the tubes.

I'm not worried about damaging anything. I'd rather take a few lessons on this machine than something that I actually paid for.


Thanks,


John

The decision has been made. I'll yank the anodes from the tubes. I read somewhere else on the forum that Automotive RTV should be used to seal the anodes back in the bell housing. Is this correct? Also, what other precautions if any should I take when removing the anodes?


Thanks,

John

I have done a few of them and they have been the twist 180 degrees and pull type, same as on the 10xx units. just sometimes the solder as gone brittle and you snap the connector off and its stuck in the hv block

I managed to get both the blue and red tubes out of the machine last night. I also was able to drain and filter the glycol in each tube without loosing any liquid. From there I cut off the face of the tube and cleaned the funky stuff off. The blue tube dirt wiped off with no problems. The red on the other hand required a razor blade to get the dirt off. Regardless I have too very clean tube faces now. Wednesday I'll silicone the glass back to the tubes and inject the coolant back in.

This wasn't as bad as I thought it would be. It was just a matter of taking my time. Then again.....I'm only 1/3 of the way there.


John

Make sure to put the tube upright while the silicone is drying or the glass will slide off. I made a little "tube holder" out of wood so that I can just set the tube in it's upright position. Much easier to work this way.


I have three tubes in a 1040 that needs major cleaning although I can't seem to get motivated to do it because in the end it's just a dim 480i projector so it could only be improved (by cleaning the tubes) so much.

Great! Thanks for the tip on making the tube holder. That should be very easy to do.



John

Curt!!!! Too late!!! Dow! I have already removed the anodes from the bell housings. No big deal. I just hope when I reseal the anode to the bell housing everything works correctly. I'll take your advice anyway and try the push twist just to give it a shot.


I did manage to figure out the trick with the anodes in the bell housings. It took about 20 minutes but I finally figured it out.


Does anybody have any tips on getting the fluid back into the tube? I plan on using a hypodermic needed inserted through the little screw holes at the top of the tube. It may take some time and a few "injections" but I won't run the risk of loosing any coolant.


John

One last question.....


What type of adhesive should I use to put the glass face back on the tube?



Thanks,


John

GE Silicone II. Or Silicone I.


Either will work just fine. Just give them plenty of curing time. A day or more.


VDC recommends Silicone II because it's the most coolant-resistant option

they've tested yet.


CJ

Excellent! I'll go with the Silicone II. I was concerned with what sealant would be most resistant to the glycol. Nice.


Looks like I'm all set here for a while. I'll chime back in over the weekend on this thread if the set is back up and running properly....then again....I may still need more assistance.


Thanks,

John

Quote:
D'oh?

-H.J.S.

Its in the dictionary now...

Quote:
That's the only way to do it. Takes about 2 minutes. just leave a little air bubble so the coolant has room to expand when it heats.

buy new fluid - dont put the orriginal back in, its possibly got bits in it!


nothing worse than floaties in your field of view!

jsp, if this was anything other than a 22 year old sony I would buy new fluid. I am going to use the old fluid again. I'm not too worried about little bits floating around in there as the only signal this thing can pump out is 480i. I did filter the fluid while draining it to remove any of the little bits that may have been in there. I don't anticipate any issues with contamination based on the filtering of the fluid.


Everything is looking good so far. I picked up some of the GE Silicone II tonight and put the glass back on the tubes. I need to let that stuff sit for 24hrs before adding the glycol. I may wait until Thursday night to put the glycol back in just to be sure everything is well cured.


Curt, I will be using your advice on the HV wires after all. I realized that resealing the anodes to the bell housing will be much easier on the workbench (kitchen counter) than in the chassis.


John

these sets pump out a great picture on a smaller screen, they can be really pleasing on a 60 inch wide screen and 480i isnt too bad at that size from a good distance. I have setup quite a few sony 10xx's and a few 722's and think they are great, especially the fanless aspect!


still, they get upto $1500 local here often