[CrocHunter]

It seems that if i set both standard and pro with the same picture settings, the pro setting looks dull and less sharp, while the standard setting looks different and clearer.


Why is this?


Anybody try this out? what does everyone currently use for thier picture settings?


Here are mine, for my lighting conditions.


I leave the picture setting on standard, i leave the contrst setting alone because it's not to low to rob the picture of impact, and it's not too high to cause burn in.


Brightness i adjust, and upped it two tiny notches from the middle setting to get good black levels, for dvd and vhs.


Color and tint i left alone, they were just fine where they were, no red push or overly saturated color.


For sharpness i upped it one notch from the standard setting.


Color temp i left on cool, this gave the best white level, when a scene only showed nothing but white.


And clear edge i left off, because it tends to add artifacts in the picture, and ruin high quality sources such as dvd and hdtv.


And DRC i just leave on interlaced, it seems that when i use it for videogames and vhs it looks better.Progressive make it look stair stepy, and zig zaggy when people move.And cinamotion i don't really use because my sony dvd player has a good deinterlacer better than the tv, and i tried both and they were undistinguisable, so i just let my dvd player do the progressive scan.


And those are my picture settings, it seems that if i do the same settings with pro, the image is not as sharp and kind of out of focus.Could pro possibly disable some picture enhancements in the service menu?

 

[Mathesar]

I noticed the same thing on my 32HS510 awhile back ,I set all the picture modes to the same values (so the adjustment 'bars' were at the same levels,speaking of bars I wish sony would use numbers instead), ClearEdge VM was Off and still noted a differance in brightness/contrast/color/sharpness etc. between each mode , From what im told using Pro completely disables ClearEdge VM wich is why it has a softer output (apparently turning it off in user menu doesnt disable it 100%), I also noticed each picture mode has differant Gamma levels wich affects overall brightness.

 

[Adam Tyner]

Quote:

Originally posted by Mathesar so the adjustment 'bars' were at the same levels,speaking of bars I wish sony would use numbers instead

They do, in the newer models.

 

[CrocHunter]

me too, i wish they used numbers like everyone else. so i take it most people use pro then.

 

[pkwjr]

Crochunter,


When I first got my 32HS420 I was using the standard mode. After about 2 weeks of watching, I calibrated my set and found the pro setting to be just a touch better. It brought out more detail in some of the scenes but it took a few days of watching TV to get used to the new settings.


I would highly recommend calibrating your set. I was surprised how much of a difference it made even though I made only a few adjustments.

 

[Workindood]

I always thought the PRO setting was the one you tinkered with and reset. The others VIVID,STANDARD, MOVIE was preset so we can just jump to it in a flash. I do not know if this is correct but I reset mine with AVIA on the PRO setting. If it is sunny and bright outside I use VIVID. Other wise I use STANDARD. If it is dark in the room I use MOVIE.



But then again..I am still learning this stuff...that is why I am here

 

[dt_dc]

Don't guess ... get a copy of Avia or Video Essentials and adjust appropriately.

 

[1212patatepoil]

Out of the box, if you put identical values in all four modes, you will NOT get identical results.


I spent quite a bit of time in the service menu of my 34XBR910 to try to make all 4 modes (vivid, standard, movie, pro) identical, so I can use them to quickly jump between brightness/picture settings and leave everything else untouched.


What I learned is that the order (from best to worse) in terms of picture "fidelity" (i.e. no unecessary edge enhancement, etc...):


Pro (clean, no extra sharpening and "regular" gamma)

Movie (almost identical to Pro, very slight edge enhancement difference)

Standard (edge enhancement starts to kick in + mild gamma adjustement)

Vivid (very aggressive edge enhancement and gamma adjustement to crush the blacks)


With all the work I put in the service menu, I can now say that all 4 modes on my TV are identical when set at the values in the regular menu.


To cleary see the difference between all four modes, put on Avia's resolution chart and toggle between all four modes. You'll see the edge "enhancement" kick into high gear when you hit standard and vivid.


-- Patate

 

[CrocHunter]

thanks for the responses guys, i will try and use pro, but i don't like the darker picture, you almost have to turn contrast all the way up during daytime scenes in movies.But i'll see what i can do with my calibration discs.

 

[Waterbug]

Quote:

Originally posted by 1212patatepoil ....What I learned is that the order (from best to worse) in terms of picture "fidelity" (i.e. no unecessary edge enhancement, etc...): Pro (clean, no extra sharpening and "regular" gamma) Movie (almost identical to Pro, very slight edge enhancement difference) Standard (edge enhancement starts to kick in + mild gamma adjustement) Vivid (very aggressive edge enhancement and gamma adjustement to crush the blacks) With all the work I put in the service menu, I can now say that all 4 modes on my TV are identical when set at the values in the regular menu. To cleary see the difference between all four modes, put on Avia's resolution chart and toggle between all four modes. You'll see the edge "enhancement" kick into high gear when you hit standard and vivid. -- Patate

I agree with you too. That was my favorite orders too for video settings. Pro seem to have the most accurate image while Vivid is my least.


I also uses the Avia's resolution chart and i notice the i difference between each setting even with VSM turn off in all settings. I remember watching a dvd video and toggling between Pro and Movie, and I notice that in movie mode, there is a slight noticeable edge enhancements compare to pro. Later I found out why. I found other settings beside pro have jaggies and and exagerated sharpening. So, I used a member in this forum's advice to correct this LTLV problem that causes edge enhancements by turning it down to 0 for all settings via service menu.


But Pro still looks more natural and sharper from what i see on the resolution chart.

 

[CrocHunter]

If i turned contrast clost to max on pro mode would i be overdriving the guns?


I like pro also, but i don't like the dark picture, it's hard to see especialy in dark movies.Would this hurt the set thouugh if i put contrast to max on the pro setting?


Also if everyone is using the pro setting, what is your picture settings, did you have to touch the sharpness control at all, or is it fine where it is.


I have the 34hs420 by the way, if i can how can i get into the service menu, and once i'm there can you tell me how to set the pro setting for contrast to be the same setting as the standard mode.This would help me with my dark picture problem.like i said i think pro is much better than standard, but it is just too dark that's all, and i would like to learn to set the contrast level to the same setting as the default standard picture mode.


Thanks guys.

 

[juandixon]

yes keep contrast low if possible. if the screen appears too dark then a good way is to adjust your lighting in your room. the darker the room the better of course.

 

[CrocHunter]

do you know the codes to get into the service menu and to save the settings?


I'm trying to adjust the contrast setting for pro to be the same exact default setting for the standard picture mode, which i think is dead on.


Also my room has medium light, so that's why i need a pretty bright picture, and i find the standard picture settings look best, buut i would like the contrast setting for pro to be the same as standard.

 

[juandixon]

sorry i don't know the codes.


just remember too high of a contrast setting can be damaging.


also a duller or darker picture(pro mode) supposedly gives a better quality image.


but we are so used to high contrast and high sharpness, it does take time to getting used to as mentioned in the avia calibration disk.


actually you should use the avia disk to calibrate your set, you don't want your settings to be too high, since again it can cause damage.

 

[1212patatepoil]

CrocHunter,


If your only concerned about picture brightness, don't bother with the service menu.


Set your TV to "Pro" mode, then adjust "brightness" and "picture" properly.


The "brightness" setting adjusts the black level (the level of the darkest possible shade displayed on the screen). Use a calibration disk (or the THX optimizer patterns found on many DVDs) and find a "pludge" pattern (black area with a very dark gray patch or pattern). Lower the brightness until you can barely see the difference between black and dark gray. If you can't make the difference, brightness is too low and you are "crushing" the blacks. If brightness is too high, the picture will appear washed out and true black will appear gray.


Then, crank up the "picture" setting until you like it. This will make the picture brighter or darker. DO NOT USE THE BRIGHTNESS CONTROL TO ACHIEVE THE DESIRED "LUMINOSITY" as it will only muck up the black level and will not give you the desired results.


If you crank up "picture" too high, then very light gray and white will appear the same (white crush). If you set it too low, the image will appear dark and pure white will appear grayish.


It is considered a "good thing" not to leave "picture" at 100% all the time, especially on very bright material as it might wear out the TV a bit prematurely. I would say you can leave it at 75-80% no problem.


So to summarize:


Adjust "brightness" by looking at very dark areas of the picture.

Adjust "picture" (aka contrast) by looking at very bright areas of the picture. This is the control to play with to make the picture "brighter" or "darker".


-- Patate

 

[videonyer]

This post may seem dated for those who know what they're doing, but if your DVD player has a PLUGE setting, be sure to turn it on when working off a calibration disk, and remember to turn it off for regular viewing.

 

[CrocHunter]

Thanks guys, i think i'll just leave it on standard then, the picture looks just fine.