CRTGAMER:
'Bout a month ago my Sony Trinitron kv-36hs500 from 2002 (gifted 2 years ago by a wealthy client upgrading to an HDMI LCD, and which was often left on in a tight fitting cabinet) failed to instantly activate one day, and only after numerous tries. Got it back on two more times, and then 7 blinks of death had me pondering letting it gather dust rather than paying another $100 bucks to haul it downstairs to the car, not to mention recycling fees, and getting it out of the car again...
So I took the model number and followed where google may lead all the way to your very helpful page. Got the chips from TSM verbatim your links, and ordered the sockets there to boot, which came to Colorado within two days in regular mail.
Then with limited finances, I sought to borrow solder supplies without success, until today when extra funds coincided with the radio shack beginner kit on sale, along with desolder braid, tip cleaner, ultra-fine solder, a set of offset screwdrivers, and a lit magnifying glass came to another $80, so about $100 invested in this wacky venture to fix the Wega.
Had originally pulled off the back to blow out the dust (oh the slim hope), then came across this thread and verified the position of things and what it'd take. As I haven't come close to this kind of work since 8th grade shop in '84, it was with some trepidation that I resolved to try, and ordered the parts.
Looked at a video of desoldering with braid, and have a pretty decent head for responding to the flow of materials, and so, without practice, but carefully heeding your excellent warnings, I pulled off the back, detached and propped the D-board, and very cautiously, I finally took the plunge and desoldered the first, most isolated pin.
Couple times my technique was ill-considered, and the tip skittered across a trace overlay, and I did scream (seemingly no damage, thankfully), but soon found good neutral positioning with easy control, and the wick just drew out the solder, even despite having forgotten to clip the protruding pins on the first chip. The new kit came with a pronged pickup tool, and the old chip easily pulled free first time.
Found it helped to stop and clean the tip about every 3-4 pins, and after snipping them off, the next one came free just as easily. Popped in the sockets, using the bent pin to hold position, but used a finger also to hold in place while soldering the upper right and lower left, just to guarantee a tight fit. Soldering was easier, and with the fine stuff, it didn't collect on the tip, and amazingly looked almost identical to the old solder points when finished.
It couldn't be this easy? Another fellow on the thread regarding the anamorphic CRT Trinitron indicated that this is work for reasonably proficient people, so I was sure I'd missed something. Popped in the pre-fitted chips with some fumbles and curses, but with care to position them the same as the old, thanks to your thoughtful write-up.
Got the board screwed down and found I'd failed to fit it under a plastic lip next to the black clips on the upper right part of the board, though the clips had still popped in place despite it, which had me worried some extra stress might've affected them, especially when one popped up a bit too high when I undid it with some impatience (more cursing given how fragile they seemed and the need to not lift higher than absolutely necessary).
Fastened it all back down, connected back the wires, slid the tray back, put the back back on. Held my breath. Wondered if I'd soon be laughing hysterically or maddening hysterically?
For now, my laughter is merely hysterical!! It turned right on! The color was a little off on the left side (it has had issues in the past), so I did the worst and turned it off and right back on. No problem, the color righted itself, and the sound of the degausser is much quieter than before.
Very, very cool beans. Thank you so much for all your excellent and comprehensive directions, so straightforward a guy with just enough ability to pop the memory upgrade into a desktop was able to execute a repair on one of the more advanced CRT's ever made. The photos, the tool/parts list, the cautions, etc: all evidence of a stellar gift for instruction! Huzza!
Final note: having bookmarked this link a month ago, I didn't check newer posts before beginning, and now saw lcaillo's thread on the HomeTheaterShack link in which he advises against using sockets, as they can vary in quality, to properly clean pins before seating them, and to beware of cheaper chips.
I trust the chips, am reasonably confident about the sockets, but didn't think to clean them, though they mostly sat in their packaging until use. Mostly though, I didn't see his advise to use more solder to penetrate more deeply along the pins, though it hasn't made an immediate difference.
More importantly, if this does happen again, I feel reasonably confident that I'd be able to troubleshoot, thanks again, to CRTGAMER.
Final question, I think the picture may have drifted about a half inch to the left of center, and recall reading about an adjustment for that. Can anyone tell me what that was?
And one more time: THANKYOUTHANKYOUTHANKYOUTHANKYOU. At the very least, for not being forced to move the monstrosity from its perch, and for helping me to feel pretty dang empowered at the moment!
