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Discussion Starter #41

Quote:
Originally Posted by crossrocker /forum/post/21824092


Hey Guys, my TV has the problem described in this thread.

I finally decided to open the TV up to clean it and hope it'd work. When I opened this, I found a really strange thing. There was a liquid(hardened now) on top of the tube. Anyone know what it possibly could be? The TV has never been opened to my knowledge. It may have by apreviousnu.

youtube.co. m/watch?v=eoH4dWsi3Rw&feature=youtube_gdata_player
Please Post a direct pic

The YouTube link doesn't work. A direct pic in the Threads is more helpful anyways. Without seeing what you are describing, it could be Factory Epoxy dripped on the CRT. I wouldn't mess with it if it means scratching into the back of the tube.
 

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CRTGamer thank you for posting all the pictures and those pioneers before you that have diagnosed this issue and for giving me the confidence to try this process. I have no real soldering experience and as of a few hours after the repair the TV is working great! Anyone going to try this get a spare board and socket from Radioshack and practice soldering and desoldering first. Also get a quality solder sucker and solder station. If you follow these instructions you should be successful. Thank you again!!
 

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I want to thank CRTGamer as well… I started my repair 6 weeks ago and had to stop back then because of frustration. I just had so much trouble with the desoldering. To anyone who may run into the same frustration I did (not being able to completely desolder), do not attempt to waste your time or make the job more complicated that it needs to be by trying to desolder without using flux. I ended up getting the flux paste from Radio Shack and also picked up 60/40 Rosin Core solder. I originally picked up lead free solder and that was a mistake as well. That stuff is hard to work with.


The method that worked best for me was to add flux to the existing solder, then add new 60/40 solder to the existing chips pins. (basically doing a quick resolder) Then do the same to the other chip. Once again use flux Paste on the new solder you just carefully and sparingly laid down. Now utilize (which in my opinion works way better than the suction tool) the desoldering braid along with your iron to completely remove all solder! (Once you see the solder work its way into the wick, start slowly turning the wick around the pin your concentrating on to completely pick up all the solder. ) Also, do not work on each pin in a row, skip around so as to not cause any damage to the board.


I also want to note that another item I picked up, a small cleaning/tinning item from Radio Shack worked amazingly well. I used it primarily to tin my iron and it really did a great job. I had “0” issues with heat transfer using this stuff…


First attempt, I spent 6 hours straight and could not get the chips out. I just could not get the desoldering complete. (I was so mad, I put the cover back on, and did not touch it for 6 weeks – I was actually considering just chucking it)…


Second attempt, with the right tools, I was able to get the chips out, new sockets and new chips installed, everything reinstalled and TV successfully turned back on in less than 1 and ½ hours… But I work very slow and deliberate anyway…


Thanks again for the phenomenal information!! Glad to have the absolute best CRT ever made come back to life!! (
 

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Another success case here.

TV: 36xs955

After the 7 blinks trouble started, I kept the TV "ON" 24/7, but a small house remodeling project also shut down the TV.


Read and re-read many times the instructions here, and the other 50+ pages thread (yes, the whole thing).


Have "zero" experience with soldering iron, took me three hours to desolder the two chips, but easily only took several minutes to solder the sockets.


What a joy to switch on the TV and it actually comes ON (guess I am lucky with the fix). So now cross my finger to see how long it will last (someone mentioned problem occurs again).
 

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Ugh, Another fail...I went from no blinks to three, I replaced both chips and the two resisters, I figured it might have been part of the problem but I still don't have victory. The last fix only lasted about three months....Honestly I'm pretty much done with this nonsense about $300 will net a brand new 40" tv....Hard part is going to be trying to come up with $300 I can blow on a TV:rollseyes: If I wasn't so stubborn I'd admit defeat.
 

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Discussion Starter #46

Quote:
Originally Posted by interceptor1985 /forum/post/22074975


Ugh, Another fail...I went from no blinks to three, I replaced both chips and the two resisters, I figured it might have been part of the problem but I still don't have victory. The last fix only lasted about three months....Honestly I'm pretty much done with this nonsense about $300 will net a brand new 40" tv....Hard part is going to be trying to come up with $300 I can blow on a TV:rollseyes: If I wasn't so stubborn I'd admit defeat.

A shame, sorry to read this. Not sure if this was your situation but I do this. After shutting off my TV, I avoid turning it back on for at least a few hours to allow cooling down. Pretty much turn on and off once a day. Maybe over cautious, but less cycles the better. Taken a step further I turn on and off with the power button right on the TV instead of the remote to avoid an accidental dual on off signal.


A last try maybe swap the two chips if you used sockets? Or two new chips at less then twenty bucks from another seller, my Tristates are still holding up.
 

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Discussion Starter #48

Quote:
Originally Posted by interceptor1985 /forum/post/22078857


sadly, these are my tristates!
I did keep the other chips but I did not use sockets, they didn't work last time...

Maybe a remelt of all the solder points? Even though the TV ran for three months, a slight chance one of the solder connections was right at the edge? The heating and cooling of the PCB overtime might have "loosened" a connection if it was not solid. The remelt does not cost anything to do, might be worth a shot.


Do you turn your TV On and Off more then once a day? This could also be the cause. Even though the PCB should be designed to handle multiple fireups per day, it does have issues of the power detection chips. I also avoid other power hungry devices plugged into the same circuit such as the PS3 or the XBox 360. The Degauss pop alone makes me cringe every time if the TV will still work, waiting for the sound and pic.
 

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I guess I'll give it another go, And yes I did have the Ps3 on the same circuit (original 60gb no less!!!), old house with unreliable wiring


Its REALLY hard to find a good place to plug in on, I did keep my old parts though so that's a plus.....huge pain to keep tearing down and back up all the time.



I wish the TV was as reliable as my ps3 after I rebuilt it, I took that down to bare parts, removed the heat spreaders and lapped them to a smooth as glass finish and repaired everything else...runs much cooler and quieter now...I miss it actually, I want my tv working..lol!
 

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just like to say thanks for this guide, makes me feel better about the HR36 I recently got my grubby hands on for NZ$89 that had a "power supply" replacement about a 1 1/2 years ago, tv wouldn't turn on, sounds like those chips again. I will certainly be checking as soon as I get it. Also just checked my DA32, it already has the MCZ3001DB chip in it, just the one from what I could see, I guess thats why it hasn't had any problems.
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by neccrttv  /t/1366567/sony-trinitron-wega-rlod-twenty-dollar-repair-guide#post_21076739


Having repaired a lot of these Sony's over the years I can attest that this is one of the easiest repairs for these WEGA's. These MCZ3001D's are always failing. I've seen them in all kinds of Sony TV's and even in other brands.



On a side note CRTGamer. I've repaired over a dozen KV-27FS120 and 32FS120 that had a peculiar problem.


They would not start-up and flash 6-7 blinks. But use the error diagnostic function (tv closed press DISPLAY, 5, VOL+, POWER) and the TV would start right up. The cause was zero-detect circuit would fail. (on some projection TV's it was written ZCD (zero-cross detect) in the self-diagnosis) This I have found to be more common even than the MCZ3001D's failing (unless the problem is related to them). I just jump the relay that the microprocessor does not want to trigger and the TV works great and haven't had a comeback since.

Have u ever tried entering self-diagnosis mode when the TV was blinking?


NECCRTV I started a thread 2 days ago and received zero replies so far. My KD34XBR2 has terrible pin cushion but more disturbing is the intolerance of any change in the screen display, scene change, width change , source change. There is an immediate relay click sound and the thing goes completely off. I have to pull the power and wait for at least 10 minutes to plug it back in. I get an instant degauss and a return turn-on from any static scene off my DVE test dvd. Something seems to be way too sensitive in the protection system, but where? I would readily defeat this function if I knew which relay was energizing / deenergizing .

From your experience above, which relay was the culprit on which board? Hey, if I get this problem solved I'm sure the pin-cushion problem can be solved.

thanks for your reply.....Tom
 

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Horizontal Output Transistor and Pin Cushion are related to each other. If your tv closes down when you are in a brighter screen or when a image change occurs, the cause is probably the Deflection going wrong and the TV going into high voltage shutdown.


I do not know your experience on soldering or working on CRT's... always do this when the tv is unplugged and even then its dangerous.


The problem can be many things. The first thing id try would be to open the set up and solder all bad solder joints around the HOT (Horizontal Output Transistor) and especially the little coils and transformers around the HOT. Usually that will be the cause.


In your case... you could have a relay that is stuck... but id root that out if , when the tv opens, you can close it down manually before it goes into HV Protect. Do try the Display, 5, Vol - , Power method too. It will give a good idea of what the problem is (though im sure HVPRotect is going to be the culprit)


I have the service manual for the HA-3 chassis...


this chassis does use MCZ3001D for High Voltage regulation and power supply regulation. I would recommend replacing IC8002, the MCZ that directly drives the flyback. (Follow advice and instructions in this thread given by CRTGAMER, its well done)
 

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I have a sony KD-34xs955. I just replaced the two mcz30001db chips and sockets. it worked for about 10 minutes. It shut down and blinks 4 times now. Any new thoughts? Thanks.
 

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Discussion Starter #54

Quote:
Originally Posted by ophs  /t/1366567/sony-trinitron-wega-rlod-twenty-dollar-repair-guide/30#post_22243850


I have a sony KD-34xs955. I just replaced the two mcz30001db chips and sockets. it worked for about 10 minutes. It shut down and blinks 4 times now. Any new thoughts? Thanks.

Double check all the solder joints of the sockets with a magnifying glass. Be sure each solder pad is isolated. A remelt of each pad might also help in case one has marginal contact between the socket leg and board.


Do any capacitors on the PCB show leakage or selling at the top?
 

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CTRGAMER, I have rechecked the IC socket and all looks OK. I have only seen 1 cap that looks a bit different, but I am not sure if it is bad or just how it was manufactured. It is C5035 on the schematic a 100 uf 25 volt cap. It runs between ground and pin 0 on IC5006. I would guess it is a filter to ground. I think I may change it just to see if it helps. Any other thoughts? Thanks.
 

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Discussion Starter #56
Since you used sockets, try switching the chips with each other. Its a long shot, but just maybe the voltage detection might get fooled? Not sure on the capacitor you mentioned, change if looks swollen or leaking. The TSM site recomended a couple of capacitors and resistors.
Quote:
http://www.tristatemodule.com/p-7979-mcz3001db-shindengen-ic.aspx


-Replacement of the following parts along with the MCZ3001DB IC's is recommended

.1 Ohm 1/2W Fusible resistor (2 per board). Order 120293361

1200uF 250V Electrolytic capacitor (2 per board). Order 1200UF250V
 

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Hi CRTGAMER,

First let me thank you very very much for providing such a nice repair guide for dummies!! When my KVHS500 died couple months back, I was so sad to loose it. Immediately I was searching for 6 blinks signal on internet and I came across your upload after spending and hour or so. After going through I felt I could manage.

Then came search for Chips, for which I got rates up to $ 20.00 each. I kept searching and then decided to get in touch with Sony of Canada for Chips and to my surprise I got OEM Chips at $ 3.15 each:)
.

I had to spend 30.00 for Soldering Iron, Desoldering Pump and IC Sockets. I spend couple hours in finishing the job and then came the BIG moment. I was wondering if the TV will fire back?? and to my surprise it did come on:)
. Total I spent $ 45.00 against $ 300.00 TV Tech were asking for this job. I was very happy to finish this TV repair per your guide.

Thank you so much again for wonderful guide.


Mahendra Damania

Markham, Ontario, Canada.
 

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Hi CRTGAMER,

First let me thank you very very much for providing such a nice repair guide for dummies!! When my KVHS500 died couple months back, I was so sad to loose it. Immediately I was searching for 6 blinks signal on internet and I came across your upload after spending and hour or so. After going through I felt I could manage.

Then came search for Chips, for which I got rates up to $ 20.00 each. I kept searching and then decided to get in touch with Sony of Canada for Chips and to my surprise I got OEM Chips at $ 3.15 each:)
.

I had to spend 30.00 for Soldering Iron, Desoldering Pump and IC Sockets. I spend couple hours in finishing the job and then came the BIG moment. I was wondering if the TV will fire back?? and to my surprise it did come on:)
. Total I spent $ 45.00 against $ 300.00 TV Tech were asking for this job. I was very happy to finish this TV repair per your guide.

Thank you so much again for wonderful guide.


Mahendra Damania

Markham, Ontario, Canada.
 

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THANK YOU! THANK YOU! THANK YOU! THANK YOU! THANK YOU! THANK YOU! THANK YOU! THANK YOU!


model #: KD-34XBR960


I cannot say thank you enough! I have a Sony FD Trinitron WEGA 37" HDTV that is only 6 years old. It has a beautiful 720p picture from all angles and pretty much beats any of the flatscreen 720ps in quality. I started having this issue with it not turning on every once in a while to finally I would just leave it on with the screensaver from DirectTV going. Of course the inevitable power failure turned it off. This time I could not get it back on. I looked up the red flash code on line and ended up on this thread. I called a TV repair guy and explained the problem and this thread and he seemed doubtful that I had the solution. I ordered the part and told him that I would pay for his service whether it fixed the issue or not, pretty much gambling on this thread. Lo and behold, IT WORKED! I got the part for $17 and paid the repair guy $50. This thread saved me over $400 which would have been the minimum I would have had to spend on a new TV. I can also tell by the quality of the picture I currently have that this TV has at least another 10 years left in it. So thank you very much! God, I love the interwebs!
 

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CRTGAMER, You are the man dude!!!!!



Add one more to the list of successful rookies at TV repair. We have a KV36HS500 and had the 6 to 7 blink standby light code. Found your troubleshooting thread and away I went. I didn't really have much trouble with the repair....probably due the several hours reading up on the subject in this thread. THANKS a million to all who posted here and gave us rookies the confidence to tackle the repair. Fairly funny story about several co-workers suggesting to throw away the TV, but only because they've never experienced a TV with good sound and HD all rolled into one. We have two LED TV's in the house...they do not compare to the "beast".


Once again. thanks to CRTGAMER for your informative post and help.
 
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