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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I am about to have a new house built that will include a dedicated theater. Although I should be concerned about sound getting into the theater my main concern is sound getting out.


Roof decking will be 7/16th radiant barrier. Roofing will be shingles over 16lb underlayment. R-40 blown attic insulation. Walls have a minimum of 7/16th OSB behind a stone veneer. Sheetrock is 1/2" at walls, 5/8" on ceiling.


Will I need additional sound proofing in the theater room so that I won't disturb the neighbors? The closest house will be 20ft away?


Many thanks
 

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My guess would be Yes, you would need more soundproofing to contain sound 20 ft away. The standard (least costly) recommendation these days is 2 layers of 5/8 sheetrock with green glue sound dampener in between, and mounted on resilient clips and furring channel. Remember, you must do all the walls and the ceiling to get reasonable containment. Check out soundproofingcompany.com for more detail.
 

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yes you need more sound proofing. Here is a factoid about drywall. a sheet of 1/2 on the market now (lightweight) weighs 39 lbs. A sheet of 5/8 heavy weighs 70. It takes isolated, damped mass to contain the subwoofer rumble. Follow LeBons advice, getting your builder to do it, GOOD LUCK. Insulation is good but is ineffective at low frequencies, so if the builder offers you an insulation upgrade to soundproof the theater, laugh. Install good old fiberglass in the walls.


The drywall industry has crammed down our throats the notion that 1/2 inch drywall is a plus because it is easier to install. It is impossible to get the old style drywall in various regions so we are stuck with putting cardboard up for 1/2 inch walls.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by LeBon  /t/1519705/sound-leakage-in-single-family-home#post_24411697


My guess would be Yes, you would need more soundproofing to contain sound 20 ft away. The standard (least costly) recommendation these days is 2 layers of 5/8 sheetrock with green glue sound dampener in between, and mounted on resilient clips and furring channel. Remember, you must do all the walls and the ceiling to get reasonable containment. Check out soundproofingcompany.com for more detail.

I don't think I'd have any chance of getting the builder to use clips but I may be able to talk them into using 5/8 sheetrock and fiber glass. That will mean I'll have to add the green glue and extra layer of drywall myself. I also don't think I have room to add the clips.


By the sounds of it just doubling up on the exterior walls will be a waste of time.


I was hoping that in these new homes it the additional soundproofing wouldn't be necessary but obviously that's not the case.


Thank you both for the advice.
 

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My theater is above the garage, and "all" I did was the DD+GG portion, and I'm happy with the results. It certainly helps, no question. My weak point by far is the door. The general advice around here will be to do the clips&channel because it's a big part of the solution and not that much more money. DD+GG is, IMO, a lot better than doing nothing.


I would disagree to some extent that you'd have a "problem" bothering neighbors in adjacent homes. You might be able to hear the subs from outside your house, but to actually hear it inside another house - IMO very unlikely. Now, if your theater has windows that face a neighbor's bedroom window - that could be a different story.


But you should still consider any soundproofing possible - more for preventing exterior noise from getting in.


Jeff
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by jautor  /t/1519705/sound-leakage-in-single-family-home#post_24418078


My theater is above the garage, and "all" I did was the DD+GG portion, and I'm happy with the results. It certainly helps, no question. My weak point by far is the door. The general advice around here will be to do the clips&channel because it's a big part of the solution and not that much more money. DD+GG is, IMO, a lot better than doing nothing.


I would disagree to some extent that you'd have a "problem" bothering neighbors in adjacent homes. You might be able to hear the subs from outside your house, but to actually hear it inside another house - IMO very unlikely. Now, if your theater has windows that face a neighbor's bedroom window - that could be a different story.


But you should still consider any soundproofing possible - more for preventing exterior noise from getting in.


Jeff

That's good to hear Jeff. Thank you.


The room is being built with windows so that we still have the option to sell the house with an additional bedroom in the future but they will be completely plugged up.


If I did clips & channel I'd be taking a lot of precious room because the room will already have sheet rock in place. I spoke to the builder today and they said it shouldn't be a problem making all walls 5/8 and filling them with R13.


The DD+GG isn't cheap and is money I'll never get back but if I stay in the house for a few years I'm sure it will be worth it. The other issue is that I have no one to help me get it on the ceiling but if you got away with just doing the floor I may be able to limit the surfaces I treat.
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by andrewtodd  /t/1519705/sound-leakage-in-single-family-home#post_24418943


The room is being built with windows so that we still have the option to sell the house with an additional bedroom in the future but they will be completely plugged up.

Think about having those windows framed out normally with all the exterior trim in place, but then filled in with decorative shutters or stone work - and then finished as walls inside. The structure would then be in place to cut out the drywall and insert a window in the future without disturbing the exterior (and with no wires or pipes in the way). Had I thought of that when I built my house, I probably would have done it, too, just so that future owners could have an easy way to de-commission the theater... (my room has other issues which prevent that, but oh well).
Quote:
If I did clips & channel I'd be taking a lot of precious room because the room will already have sheet rock in place. I spoke to the builder today and they said it shouldn't be a problem making all walls 5/8 and filling them with R13.

You'd have to take down the sheetrock to do clips and channel (see triple-leaf effect).
Quote:
The DD+GG isn't cheap and is money I'll never get back but if I stay in the house for a few years I'm sure it will be worth it. The other issue is that I have no one to help me get it on the ceiling but if you got away with just doing the floor I may be able to limit the surfaces I treat.

Panel lift rental can help do the ceiling. And yes, it's money you'll never get back, but you also won't ever want to tear the room up later to add more soundproofing, either.


Jeff
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Thank you so much for the suggestions. There is so much to think about. Now that you've helped me figure out what the builder can do I think I'm going to try and put this to the back of my mind for a few weeks so I can figure out the things I need to know now. I've still for a few months to finalize the soundproofing plans since I'll have to wait until the house is built.


I have 3 weeks to decide on everything else for the theater which is really not as much time as I'd like. I'm going to end up with holes all over my new home because I didn't think of everything before the plans were finalized.


Thank you for helping me get this one off my list.
 

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For new construction, your biggest AV concern at this stage should be the whole house pre-wiring. You really want to spend some time on that - check out the Home AV Distribution forum a few down from here. If you're at all interested in AV and networking, getting enough low-volt wiring and flex conduit in before the drywall goes on is critical. And yes, you really don't want to start punching holes all over the house right after you move in...
 

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You were talking about roof decking and the like in your first post I assume this is a second floor bonus room build but you did not say. I designed my house with the architect and the builder and put my theater and billiard room over my 3 car garage. I do not call it bonus room since that is not how it was designed. You can always have this room delivered as unfinished and then do everything right yourself like I did.
Quote:
Originally Posted by andrewtodd  /t/1519705/sound-leakage-in-single-family-home#post_24418943


That's good to hear Jeff. Thank you.


The room is being built with windows so that we still have the option to sell the house with an additional bedroom in the future but they will be completely plugged up.
check out my window plug than

If I did clips & channel I'd be taking a lot of precious room because the room will already have sheet rock in place. I spoke to the builder today and they said it shouldn't be a problem making all walls 5/8 and filling them with R13.
You do not put clips and channel on top the existing DW as that would be triple leaf. Clips and channel go on the studs.

The DD+GG isn't cheap and is money I'll never get back but if I stay in the house for a few years I'm sure it will be worth it. The other issue is that I have no one to help me get it on the ceiling but if you got away with just doing the floor I may be able to limit the surfaces I treat.
If you decide to go just with two layers of DW and GG do not forget the outlets and lights just make big holes in whatever effort you make. Backer boxes for the lights and putty pads for the outlets are a must. Also think about getting adjustable outlet boxes to span the 5/8"+5/8"=1 1/4" space vise the builder grade 1/2" boxes.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Hi,


Your assumption about the room being upstairs is correct. On one side of the stairway is a game room that leads to a bathroom and the theater room. When the drawings are complete I will be able upload them.


I had already read your window plug thread, cheers, and planned to follow it when the time came.


I'm not sure the builder will be able to leave the room unfinished. I had already asked about leaving the floor unfinished in other areas of the house and was told I wouldn't be able to get finance if the house was not finished. Maybe it will be different since it's considered a bonus room. I just tried to call him to ask but got now answer.
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by andrewtodd  /t/1519705/sound-leakage-in-single-family-home#post_24422737


I'm not sure the builder will be able to leave the room unfinished. I had already asked about leaving the floor unfinished in other areas of the house and was told I wouldn't be able to get finance if the house was not finished. Maybe it will be different since it's considered a bonus room. I just tried to call him to ask but got now answer.

My room was completely unfinished at completion of construction, but that space was also not included in the square footage of the house. That's likely why they told you they couldn't leave the floors unfinished in other parts of the house - it has to be complete to be considered occupied space to make the banks happy (and you know, it's all about making the banks happy...). So having a whole room unfinished is a different animal. But YMMV, and I wouldn't expect a non-custom builder to go for any of it - but doesn't hurt to ask, you might get lucky.
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by andrewtodd  /t/1519705/sound-leakage-in-single-family-home#post_24422737


Hi,


Your assumption about the room being upstairs is correct. On one side of the stairway is a game room that leads to a bathroom and the theater room. When the drawings are complete I will be able upload them.
Again I am not an expert but I am happy with the results of my sound proofing. Since you are second floor bonus room if you followed the same procedures you will be happy as well.

I had already read your window plug thread, cheers, and planned to follow it when the time came.


I'm not sure the builder will be able to leave the room unfinished. I had already asked about leaving the floor unfinished in other areas of the house and was told I wouldn't be able to get finance if the house was not finished. Maybe it will be different since it's considered a bonus room. I just tried to call him to ask but got now answer.
Quote:
Originally Posted by jautor  /t/1519705/sound-leakage-in-single-family-home#post_24424237


My room was completely unfinished at completion of construction, but that space was also not included in the square footage of the house. That's likely why they told you they couldn't leave the floors unfinished in other parts of the house - it has to be complete to be considered occupied space to make the banks happy (and you know, it's all about making the banks happy...). So having a whole room unfinished is a different animal. But YMMV, and I wouldn't expect a non-custom builder to go for any of it - but doesn't hurt to ask, you might get lucky.
I agree with Jantor about the unfinished bonus room. But you need to be prepared with the skills tools and patience to DIY not to mention funds. my Room is large for bonus because I had over sized garages and also had a story and a half to increase the width upstairs. Saying all that the GG, clips, hat channel, Metal screws and acoustical caulk was about $3K the extra building materials I did not price as my builder provided them and rolled it into the price of the house.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
I'm still trying to get through to the builder. I think it's all going to depend on what happens to house prices between now and when the property closes. I'm not sure it will fund if the house loses 250 sq/ft. I also agree that sound proofing is not cheap.
 

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If you could at least have him do the staggered stud wall with R13 in the rear of the room and use the 5/8" fire proof DW in the room and on both sides of the staggered stud wall. you can than put the GG and the second layer of DW up yourself. Make sure you put the access doors for the attic space for your side walls in the main room not in the theater. Hope you understand what I mean. In other words my access doors are in my Billiard room and the hall way not my theater.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by cw5billwade  /t/1519705/sound-leakage-in-single-family-home#post_24429048


If you could at least have him do the staggered stud wall with R13 in the rear of the room and use the 5/8" fire proof DW in the room and on both sides of the staggered stud wall. you can than put the GG and the second layer of DW up yourself. Make sure you put the access doors for the attic space for your side walls in the main room not in the theater. Hope you understand what I mean. In other words my access doors are in my Billiard room and the hall way not my theater.

I understand what you mean about the attack door thank you. There are no attic walls in the theater. I have the door to the theater and a door to a 5x5 closet where the equipment will be stored. I'm considering leaving the closet open to the room. As well as the closet, the left side of the room is connected to a bathroom (accessed from the game room.) I think the right of the room is connected to attic space, as is the ceiling.


There is no way they'll do a staggered stud wall for me. They've told me the best they can do is R13 in walls and 5/8" fire proof drywall throughout. There are no rooms connected to the rear of the theater. The rear of the theater is the side of the house. If I could have staggered the rear wall l would I not still have an issue with flanking?
 
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