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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
sound proof room / via wall treatment


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I finished my theatre room downstairs and I wanted to look into further sound treatment.

The walls are 1" pine board walls with 4" fibreglass insulation.

Concrete floor with 1" foaam insulation and plywood then carpet.
ceiling is accoustical tile with 6" insulation on top.

SVS PB12 Plus x2 sub.


I'm trying to contain some of the bass and sound to the room, I'm shaking the upper 2 floors apart and nobody can sleep with my movies going.


can some wall treatment help, retain sound within a room ?

Any other suggestions ? ....besides keep it down.


Yamaha HTR6190

polk Rti10-Csi5-Fxi5-Rti6 7.1

Ae3000 and 125" 2.40:1 cinema scope
 

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The ceiling is the biggest problem based on what you said but there is also the walls and HVAC to consider.


can you remove the drop ceiling and replace with rsic/hat channel DD/GG ?


you can add another layer to the side walls of drywall with GG


do you have access to build a muffler for the air supply and return into the theater ?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Muffler for the air supply seems like a good idea a 10 x 10 intake is right beside my SVS.

Like a soft foam screen 3/4" thick, which I could change monthly may help.


A layer of drywall=sanding , mudding and dust, etc..

I was thinking carpet half way up the wall..to ear level. Don't want the sound TOO dead.


rsic hat channel ?

I can easily remove the ceiling tiles the 6" insul. is up in the 2x10 joist. I have a little space to play with.


Does a door seal help for the door bottom ? I have 3/4" space their.
 

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Google search duct muffler it is not what you think.




Also consider a serpentine baffle box for HVAC.


Yes treat the door with weather stripping and door sweep as if it was an exterior door and it was Feb 1.


You need to read the background articles at
www.soundproofingcompany.com
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by stevegamble66 /forum/post/15469244


I was thinking carpet half way up the wall..to ear level. Don't want the sound TOO dead.

if you add carpet to the walls you are only affecting the "acoustics" of the room not the "soundproofing"


The idea of adding a extra layer of drywall is to add mass to the wall ... the Green Glue will help damp the bass tones from going from one layer to the next

read www.greengluecompany.com


As Big said goto the www.soundproofingcompany.com website and read the articles ... there is no half way job to taming those sub bass frequencies
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Great site..thanks.

wow.. a whole new world of ht build for me.


I wonder about adding green glue and drywall to the outside of the room facing the laundry room, hence no need to finish to perfection.

I still get the mass.

I think.. from walikng around the house I loose most of my sound through the ceiling.

?

And.. yet so much Insul. and so many layers ? But not tightly sealed.


Home Theatre

It's not just a trip to the electronics store, anymore..
 

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If you are talking about doing a DD/GG on the outside of the room but not on the inside you wont be happy with the results ... look up " flanking " at the site we gave you above


A picture of the room would be helpful to know what you are referring to



Think of ALL these elements ... ceiling, walls, HVAC & Door
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
OK..

I'm going to start with the door.

then a HAVA muffler.


Then the ceiling..

I feel this is where most of my sound is currently escaping from and, New drywall is my last task..involving downtime for the theatre, removing equipment Dusty sanding, and new paint.

When is it again the room becomes enjoyment ? and not work ? My wife keeps asking me.


I really do appreciate you all giving me some direction. thanks.
 

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I strongly suspect that the ceiling is the weakest link in the chain. I totally get the WAF issues. Having to explain that you need to make another huge mess and spend more $'s just so you can watch movies can be a difficult conversation to start/win.
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by stevegamble66 /forum/post/15474740


OK..

New drywall is my last task..involving downtime for the theatre, removing equipment Dusty sanding, and new paint.

You know if you decide to treat the room acoustically then you dont have to do such a good job on the taping/sanding
... just tape the joints with one coat of mud ( if the mud is thin enough you dont even need to sand it
) ... alot of the theater builds here have the entire walls covered in fabric with acoustic insulation behind it so no need to worry about perfect seams and painting
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by ScruffyHT /forum/post/15476252


You know if you decide to treat the room acoustically then you dont have to do such a good job on the taping/sanding
... just tape the joints with one coat of mud ( if the mud is thin enough you dont even need to sand it
) ... alot of the theater builds here have the entire walls covered in fabric with acoustic insulation behind it so no need to worry about perfect seams and painting

That might work for the walls, but not for the ceiling, which is where the majority of the problem appears to be. Now, if he were to texture the ceiling...
 

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Just thinking least amount of downtime....

Remove your ceiling tiles and insulation and have someone come in and spray foam between your floor joists. Then put your ceiling tiles back in with your insulation. Should give you some air space between the 2 kinds of insulation and cut down on noise. Of course I have absolutely so sound-proofing experience but sounds like a good idea.
 

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We'd want to avoid the foam. Definitely faster, but insufficient absorption for what we're looking for.
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by In2Photos /forum/post/15476411


That might work for the walls, but not for the ceiling, which is where the majority of the problem appears to be. Now, if he were to texture the ceiling...

Work with me here
... he already committed to doing something about the ceiling



next step was the walls
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ted White /forum/post/15477051


We'd want to avoid the foam. Definitely faster, but insufficient absorption for what we're looking for.

That is why you are an expert and I am not! LOL
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
You know if you decide to treat the room acoustically then you dont have to do such a good job on the taping/sanding ... just tape the joints with one coat of mud ( if the mud is thin enough you dont even need to sand it ) ... alot of the theater builds here have the entire walls covered in fabric with acoustic insulation behind it so no need to worry about perfect seams and painting..


Wow..I never thought of that but yea.. I'm into that.. fast too.

A nice velour or ?? something tacky..LOL WAF again.

I get a hard time.. then she sits down and says wow, this is pretty nice.

Great Advice.
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by stevegamble66 /forum/post/15477278



Wow..I never thought of that but yea.. I'm into that.. fast too.

A nice velour or ?? something tacky..LOL WAF again.

I get a hard time.. then she sits down and says wow, this is pretty nice.

Great Advice.


Best way to get past the whole WAF is to show her some of the Completed Theaters here that have a similar finish to what you want - then get HER out there looking for fabric colours ... she will almost think it was her idea after a little while
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
If I could take down my 24"x48" tiles and do some quick easy, expensive fix.. and put my tiles back up that would be great ?


I have 8" of space aprox.

I don't know how to post pictures here..I'm trying.


I think I loose the most sound there..

3 walls are exterior house walls, by the way.. sorry I just realized that .

Door leaks like bad, I stuffed a towel under the 1" space and reduced sound by maybe 20%.

So a proper seal will help.

Tomorrows job.


I'll wait on a idea that send a light off in my head for the ceiling.
 

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Is there any reason why you want to keep the tiles ?


I know some people want to have access to the ceiling " in case " they need to gain access for whatever reason ... but you can always put in conduit up there " in case " something new comes along that you want to upgrade to later on and you need to fish wire up there



You will have far better success if you use RSIC clips & Hat Channel and hang 2 sheets of 5/8 drywall with Green Glue in between to control the sound from going up through the ceiling ... add another layer of drywall to the walls with Green Glue again ( you can get up to 70% performance out of the Green Glue if you use even 1 tube/sheet of drywall ... if the door to the theater is not a solid core door then add a layer of MDF on the theater side with Green Glue in between ... Ted can also sell you a sweep to control the sound at the bottom of the door
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
OK.. That is exactly what I'm going to do.

RSIC clip w/hat channel and green glue 2 tubes per sheet.

painted charcoal after.

and a door sweep.

from Ted.

If I cut corners, then in 6 mos time, I'll be back here looking for this thread for the right way to do it.

Good winter project.

I do have speaker wires etc.. up there.. and I foresee upgrades constantly.

1080P

1440P

1660P

2140P

and ...? all the cableing etc.. that goes along.

4" conduit otta do.
 
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