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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm looking at options for different types of door gasket material where the door meets the door casing. Can anyone tell me whether vinyl coated sponge rubber or neoprene would be best for blocking sound?
 

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Diver,


I used a weatherstripping material from Lowes to trim in the door casing. I did this mostly for the light blocking aspect. It also allows for a nice quiet seal when the hydraulic unit closes the door behind you.
 

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Either should work. The key, however, is the material should be easily compressable and resilient (comes back after compression). You want to achieve a tight seal plus a seal that should it not completely contact a door/frame component, would not rattle.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
darren - Ditto the hydraulic door closer - Home Depot ($57). I also used oversized hinges with roller bearings (3 hinges). The door operates smoothly, and closes ever so gently and quietly.


Dennis - Thanks for confirmation on the door gasket material. Clearance/non-contact won't be an issue - I built the doorway and door casings with 3/16" clearance from the door. The door gasket will be 3/8" material. I should have even compression all the way around - no rattles.
 

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Just to chime in with my .02...


I also went with "standard" weather stripping. It doesn't look pretty, but it does the job. I threw it up there as a test and it worked so well, I left it in place. In a bit of a more semi-permanent move, I screwed a section of door sweep weather stripping at the bottom, too.


Overall, it's probably the cheapest soundproofing on my bill of materials to date.


Cheers!


- Ed.
 

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What kind of solid core? They make fiberglass solid core and wood and others I imagine. Plus there are countless types of wood doors. Are the harder woods better than the softer woods?
 

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Dennis or others: can you comment on the difference between a solid core door and a french (glass) door as far as sound insulation? I have a french door now which is 80 percent glass and wonder how much more insulated the sound will be if I replace it with a solid core door. The prior owner, in building the room, put sound insulation everywhere, including into the wall unit! However, he put in a glass door which seems to defeat the purpose.


Thanks in advance.

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Originally posted by Toxarch
What kind of solid core? They make fiberglass solid core and wood and others I imagine. Plus there are countless types of wood doors. Are the harder woods better than the softer woods?
 

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There is a large difference. I went from solid birch to French Doors will lots of glass, much more sound leaks to the rest of the house.
 

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I called HD and spoke with a "door" salesman. He said he had no idea what rating their solid core doors were. Is the rating an industry requirement, and if not, how does one determine that number. Can I make assumptions based on the size and depth of the door? HD's got a no-frills one for $99.
 

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Quote:
Originally posted by Snovosel
I called HD and spoke with a "door" salesman. He said he had no idea what rating their solid core doors were. Is the rating an industry requirement, and if not, how does one determine that number.
If you're speaking of an STC rating, typically only manufacturers marketing "soundproof" doors would go to the expense and trouble of getting their specific doors rated. When I was shopping for a HT door, I found that most hollow core doors were around STC 22-26, with solid core doors hitting around STC 30, based on data from "baseline" STC studies used to show how much "better" higher STC rated doors were.
 

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Quote:
Originally posted by Diver
darren - Ditto the hydraulic door closer - Home Depot ($57). I also used oversized hinges with roller bearings (3 hinges). The door operates smoothly, and closes ever so gently and quietly.
What SKU# did you get for the door.


Any pics?


Did you get a pre-fab door?


What type latch did you put on your door?
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Solid 20 minute fire rated door Home Depot sku# 030151-059206

I don't know if this door is solid wood, or if it has particle board or fiberglass between the outer laminates, but it weighs 95 pounds, and it is definitely solid. The folks at the local home decor store told me that door makers steer away from solid wood exterior grade doors because the weather causes them to warp. I put considerable effort into finding a 1 3/4" thick solid wood door and finally gave up and settled for this.


No pics yet, but I can take one. Do you want the door, the closer, the hinges?


Brown Door Closer 043156-759279

Steel Roller Hinges 044074-610260

Steel Push Plate 044074-008425

Steel Pull Plate 044074-589498


I didn't get a pre-hung door. I couldn't find a door with nice wood casings for under $700, so I bought some red oak for the door casings, this door for the HT side of the doorway, and I'll have a second solid core Colonial style door on the office side of the wall (To match the other door in the office).


I didn't use a latch, the door closer keeps the door closed.
 
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