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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm building a man cave to my apartment where I'll be able to sleep during the day and play / watch movies during the night without disturbing my family and vice versa. The room has solid stone walls, but the door is.. crap. So I intend to swap it for soundproofed one. Problem is that I have no idea how well the door should be soundproofed. Better is of course better, but I don't have a fortune to spend, so.. what'd you pick:

25 db (Rw 30) door for 192,
30 db (Rw 37/39?) door for 407,
35 db (Rw 41) door for 632 or
40 db (I've lost the Rw value for this one) door for 675.

Prices (in EUR) are for "ready to install" packages with all necessary accessories (hinges, locks etc).

Cheapest option is tempting, but is door with that kind of rating any good?
 

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RETIRED theater builder
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There is a lot you can do to a regular solid core door to add more sound proofing. On one project we started with a prehung 1 3/4 solid particle core door and added two layers of 1/2 inch MDF with Green Glue dampening between layers. The door was around $160 US pre-hung in a door jamb with 5 beefy hinges. Final door was 2 3/4 inch thick and really did a good job. We also added adjustable rubber gasket acoustical door seals which cost more than the door. Door seals make a big difference in the end result.

Pics here:

http://www.avsforum.com/forum/19-de...ination-columbus-indiana-10.html#post22701496
 

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That door is sweet! With good seals I'll be it was pretty soundproof.

What would you do for a utility exterior door? Steel door and frame with MDF and GG screwed to the inside?

There is a lot you can do to a regular solid core door to add more sound proofing. On one project we started with a prehung 1 3/4 solid particle core door and added two layers of 1/2 inch MDF with Green Glue dampening between layers. The door was around $160 US pre-hung in a door jamb with 5 beefy hinges. Final door was 2 3/4 inch thick and really did a good job. We also added adjustable rubber gasket acoustical door seals which cost more than the door. Door seals make a big difference in the end result.

Pics here:

http://www.avsforum.com/forum/19-de...ination-columbus-indiana-10.html#post22701496
 

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The best place to add layers is on the side opposite the door stop, If you try to do it on the inside you have deal with moving the stop and the door geometry of a thicker door not making the arc to close. You can always add layers that aren't edge to edge but that looks tacky. it helps if the door is totally flay otherwise you need to add filler to make it flat to get 100% contact with the Green Glue.
 

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That makes sense but it wouldn't work for an exterior door would it? MDF is not waterproof. Even if you paint it, it 1) won't look great and 2) any failure in the paint will result in a bubbled up mess.

What to do about a utility exterior door then?

The best place to add layers is on the side opposite the door stop, If you try to do it on the inside you have deal with moving the stop and the door geometry of a thicker door not making the arc to close. You can always add layers that aren't edge to edge but that looks tacky. it helps if the door is totally flay otherwise you need to add filler to make it flat to get 100% contact with the Green Glue.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 · (Edited)
There is a lot you can do to a regular solid core door to add more sound proofing.
Thanks for your advice. Unfortunately I'm going to stick with commercial solutions (new soundproofed door). This is for multiple reasons. Old door jamb is rabbeted, and door is flush mounted from both sides, so adding anything to it would not look nice (SWMBO factor comes into play here, because my man cave's door leads to living room :) ), especially from the outside. Other reason is that whole apartment is under heavy renovation, and there's a lot to do in a tight time frame.. So I have to cut some corners with money from here and there.
 
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