If all you can do is insulate then the denser Roxul Safe and Sound has a slight edge over cheaper fiberglass. Keep in mind that insulation is totally useless in containing sub-woofer rumble, like only putting on boots to go outside when it is raining
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Soundproofing a home being built (Time sensitive)
I have a home being built in Florida right now. Schedule to be complete in 13 weeks. Today I got approval to insulate or sound proof my walls prior to drywall being put up. This is not a custom home (being built in a community from multiple pre plan options) so I can't pick unique drywall or anything out of the normal. What they will allow me to do is put insulation in myself (have a friend helping me) prior to them putting drywall on. I have a two day window when this happens. The inspector will come out and approve the building to continue to drywall. Once that is approved they will apply their own insulation to the interior outer wall but they will not put anything in the interior walls (just air between walls).
My purpose for insulation is the following:
I have a young daughter that I want to limit the noise in her bedroom while she sleeps. I have 3 separate entertainment rooms. Our bedroom what has a Atmos soundbar and a OLED mounted on the wall, my bonus game room mainly for VR and light movie watching for my son. This also has a OLED TV with an Atmos soundbar. Lastly will be our main living space. I will be transferring over my Def Tech Atmos home theater. I have a L/R/C with Surround speakers mounted on the backwall and 4 ceiling speakers spaced out above the couch in the living room. 5.1.4 system.
I only get one shot of doing this correct so I want to ensure I pick the best product I can to place in between the walls. My knowledge of sound proofing is very limited. I have seen "sound proofing" insulation at Lowes and Home Depot but not sure if this is just a marketing gimmick. I also was thinking of putting the insulation in and once it is in, placing some Dynamat on the insulation paper. I know dynamat stops car rattling but not sure how effect it is blocking sound.
If you were in my position what would you do? I can not add any wires, extra framing/wood, or do anything to the actual drywall. But if it can fit behind the drywall when they place it up, I am good.
Looking forward to being educated. Thanks!
My purpose for insulation is the following:
I have a young daughter that I want to limit the noise in her bedroom while she sleeps. I have 3 separate entertainment rooms. Our bedroom what has a Atmos soundbar and a OLED mounted on the wall, my bonus game room mainly for VR and light movie watching for my son. This also has a OLED TV with an Atmos soundbar. Lastly will be our main living space. I will be transferring over my Def Tech Atmos home theater. I have a L/R/C with Surround speakers mounted on the backwall and 4 ceiling speakers spaced out above the couch in the living room. 5.1.4 system.
I only get one shot of doing this correct so I want to ensure I pick the best product I can to place in between the walls. My knowledge of sound proofing is very limited. I have seen "sound proofing" insulation at Lowes and Home Depot but not sure if this is just a marketing gimmick. I also was thinking of putting the insulation in and once it is in, placing some Dynamat on the insulation paper. I know dynamat stops car rattling but not sure how effect it is blocking sound.
If you were in my position what would you do? I can not add any wires, extra framing/wood, or do anything to the actual drywall. But if it can fit behind the drywall when they place it up, I am good.
Looking forward to being educated. Thanks!
1 - 15 of 15 Posts
Double up the drywall where you can to help with the noise..
A few years ago we redid my kids room and added 2 layers of drywall and the pink stuff in between the studs.. I can't hear them and they can't hear me which is GREAT!!!
In other rooms I just put one layer of drywall and roxul which doesn't do much of anything.. I feel like I wasted a lot of money on Roxul and it would have been cheaper to do fiberglass with 2 layers of drywall.
A few years ago we redid my kids room and added 2 layers of drywall and the pink stuff in between the studs.. I can't hear them and they can't hear me which is GREAT!!!
In other rooms I just put one layer of drywall and roxul which doesn't do much of anything.. I feel like I wasted a lot of money on Roxul and it would have been cheaper to do fiberglass with 2 layers of drywall.
Totally Agree but the problem statement said he couldn't alter the drywall plans. Adding more drywall will screw up the door jamb thickness that I can bet are already ordered. Track home builders usually have a strict list of what can be upgraded and wall construction details is usually not on that list.
I have a home being built in Florida right now. Schedule to be complete in 13 weeks. Today I got approval to insulate or sound proof my walls prior to drywall being put up. This is not a custom home (being built in a community from multiple pre plan options) so I can't pick unique drywall or anything out of the normal. What they will allow me to do is put insulation in myself (have a friend helping me) prior to them putting drywall on. I have a two day window when this happens. The inspector will come out and approve the building to continue to drywall. Once that is approved they will apply their own insulation to the interior outer wall but they will not put anything in the interior walls (just air between walls).
My purpose for insulation is the following:
I have a young daughter that I want to limit the noise in her bedroom while she sleeps. I have 3 separate entertainment rooms. Our bedroom what has a Atmos soundbar and a OLED mounted on the wall, my bonus game room mainly for VR and light movie watching for my son. This also has a OLED TV with an Atmos soundbar. Lastly will be our main living space. I will be transferring over my Def Tech Atmos home theater. I have a L/R/C with Surround speakers mounted on the backwall and 4 ceiling speakers spaced out above the couch in the living room. 5.1.4 system.
I only get one shot of doing this correct so I want to ensure I pick the best product I can to place in between the walls. My knowledge of sound proofing is very limited. I have seen "sound proofing" insulation at Lowes and Home Depot but not sure if this is just a marketing gimmick. I also was thinking of putting the insulation in and once it is in, placing some Dynamat on the insulation paper. I know dynamat stops car rattling but not sure how effect it is blocking sound.
If you were in my position what would you do? I can not add any wires, extra framing/wood, or do anything to the actual drywall. But if it can fit behind the drywall when they place it up, I am good.
Looking forward to being educated. Thanks!
Sound isolation involves decoupling (breaking connections through which vibrations travel), mass (heavier stuff vibrates less and at lower frequencies than lighter stuff), absorption (empty cavities propagate and even amplify sound), and damping (rigid materials transfer sound more). In your case, it sounds like your only option may be absorption. But I figure knowing the spectrum of options--which work best in concert--may help you identify other possible measures you could take.
Double drywall is not an option, but when I went to Lowes I saw these insulation boards that were 8ft by 4ft (they basically looked like big Styrofoam boards). Would those be more useful? Maybe if I used those and the rolled insulation? I definitely could put some Dynomat on those insulation boards but not sure how useful that would be. I feel like it should make a decent difference? Be like adding another peice of drywall?Double up the drywall where you can to help with the noise..
A few years ago we redid my kids room and added 2 layers of drywall and the pink stuff in between the studs.. I can't hear them and they can't hear me which is GREAT!!!
In other rooms I just put one layer of drywall and roxul which doesn't do much of anything.. I feel like I wasted a lot of money on Roxul and it would have been cheaper to do fiberglass with 2 layers of drywall.
I wouldn’t experiment here or else you’re likely just throwing money away. Instead look for tried and true solutions.I definitely could put some Dynomat on those insulation boards but not sure how useful that would be. I feel like it should make a decent difference?
https://soundproofcentral.com/soundproof-home-theater-media-rooms/
Double drywall is not an option, but when I went to Lowes I saw these insulation boards that were 8ft by 4ft (they basically looked like big Styrofoam boards). Would those be more useful? Maybe if I used those and the rolled insulation? I definitely could put some Dynomat on those insulation boards but not sure how useful that would be. I feel like it should make a decent difference? Be like adding another peice of drywall?
You can't add a second layer of drywall, but you could put up insulation boards before drywall goes up? What about a layer of plywood or OSB? Adding mass is likely to make a difference even if you're unable to decouple it (though it would be a lot better decoupled), and drywall or plywood or OSB are going to be a lot more massive than insulation board, and I don't think the insulation board is going to affect sound transmission much.
That is an easy fix.. Add some 1-by filler to the jamb.. That is what I did and it is not only easy to do, but cheaper than ordering custom jambs and since it is only really needed in a few spots it will be well worth it in the end.. Better to do it right the first time rather than dick around with roxul which is just pissing money away...Totally Agree but the problem statement said he couldn't alter the drywall plans. Adding more drywall will screw up the door jamb thickness that I can bet are already ordered. Track home builders usually have a strict list of what can be upgraded and wall construction details is usually not on that list.
I think you over estimate what you can get done when you are dealing with a track home builder. Custom homes yes, not track. It is usually easier and cheaper to let them build it the way they want and then customize it after you take possession. Even if that means ripping out some drywall.
That is true, I don't have experience with that.. I would then add it after they are all done.. Put in Fiberglass now and at a later date add a second sheet of drywall in the rooms that need it.I think you over estimate what you can get done when you are dealing with a track home builder. Custom homes yes, not track. It is usually easier and cheaper to let them build it the way they want and then customize it after you take possession. Even if that means ripping out some drywall.
That is true, I don't have experience with that.. I would then add it after they are all done.. Put in Fiberglass now and at a later date add a second sheet of drywall in the rooms that need it.
Good point--even though the builders aren't willing to put up an extra layer of drywall, paying someone else to do that is presumably an option and shouldn't be too expensive (including the associated finishing work, e.g. adjusting trim, etc.). In fact, if already doing that, it might be worth doing Green Glue between the drywall layers, too. At higher frequencies, double drywall, with or without Green Glue, should make a real difference (though of course less than if it were decoupled, and far less at lower frequencies).
Bottom line: At a minimum, it's worth putting insulation into the cavities. It probably doesn't matter that much what sort of insulation, but the "good stuff" might be marginally better. Beyond that, there are some things that may be worth doing, but they're considerably more expensive, and it's harder to assess whether they're warranted in an incomplete effort that lacks decoupling, has major flanking weaknesses, etc.
Yeah I would go with the cheaper insulation since it should perform just as well when coupled with mass (Double DW and possibly GG)..
Mass Loaded VinylMlv?
1 - 15 of 15 Posts
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