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It's very weird that they don't list the gauge, but it looks pretty thick (hard to tell how much is insulator and how much is wire). These look like a nice practical set of speaker wires. Pay attention to the connectors, the first pair looks like they slip into the binding post hole (rather than a banana plug) and the second set has bananas on one side and pins on the other.
I ordered the banana to pin 3M pair. My AVR has banana plug for the fronts, and spring connections for the surround and center. My 301’s have spring connections, thus the banana to pin. When I replace the surround and center I will buy speakers that have banana terminals so I can use the 16 foot banana to pin. The center can use pin to pin.
 

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Does it need to be 14AWG? 16AWG won't work?

Sent from my CLT-L04 using Tapatalk
You can use 16awg, but you should follow the recommended gauge on the chart below if you have longer runs.
 

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Thanks.
My surround wire, the longest maybe 20ft

Sent from my CLT-L04 using Tapatalk
I just used Amazon Basics 14awg for my entire setup. A 100ft roll ($35 CDN-$25 USD) was more than enough. My system suffers no loss in sound quality compared to the more expensive wire I had from Best buy years ago. If you have 16awg wire on hand use it. If buying new, the price difference between 16awg and 14awg is negligible so may as well get 14awg.
https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Speaker-Wire-14-Gauge-Oxygen-Free/dp/B0758CSSF2/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=14+awg+ofc+speaker+wire&qid=1558723135&s=gateway&sr=8-5
 

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Does it really matter what speaker cable you use?

LOL

Whats the best bargain type speaker cable?

The economical Best Buy stuff with banana plugs work ok???
Nope. Any wire that can pass the current needed over the required distance will result in the exact same speaker performance. There is no magic wire. ;)
 

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I agree that cables tend to be overpriced at Best Buy, even if you avoid Monster Cables. Or the more expensive Audioquest cables they sell in their Magnolia stores.



Buy the bare stuff. Add a good quality wire stripper - maybe $10-15US. Avoid CCA (copper clad aluminum), like some of the Amazon Basics cable. There is nothing basically wrong with it, but it has lower conductivity than copper: a 12 gauge CCA cable is roughly equivalent to 14 gauge copper. (Because of the way gauge is defined, add 2 to CCA to get the equivalent copper.) CCA isn't enough cheaper than copper to make it attractive.



I like banana plugs, as I don't have easy access to the rear of my receiver. I like Sewell Deadbolts or the similar ones from Mediabridge. (Toll-less connection, no setscrews.) For the speaker ends of the cables I like Mediabridge 45° spade plugs; they can't compress (and loosen) like bananas. (Too wide for use at the AVR end, though.)



As for what gauge you need, here's a guide:



Take any advice (including this) with a grain of sale. Speaker cables are one of the favorite subjects of debate. Remember that some audiophiles claim to be able to hear differences due to cheater cords (the cord that connects the electric power from the wall to the receiver or amplifier). You can spend hundreds, or thousands, of dollars on a single cheater cord.

thanks for the good advice, i was just wondering the same thing
 

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I used BJC 10awg in my previous room. Now I use some 14awg cabling from the local hardware store instead. Works perfectly and way easier to route, especially inside walls.

Just terminate the ends to taste, I use Nakamachi banana plugs as they look really nice and can be found cheap on eBay.
 

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It's too vague description and is not true.
OK then, here's just about everything one needs to know about speaker wire and the voodoo behind it.

http://roger-russell.com/wire.htm

I like very secure connections, and I like no chance of stray strands mucking things up, especially where space between terminals is so tight on the back of a receiver, integrated amp, or AVR. I prefer locking banana plugs from Blue Jeans Cable or GLS. I've tried high-quality spade connectors and all of them seem to loosen up over time.
 

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It's too vague description and is not true.

How so?

A wire passes current through it. If the wire can not pass the current through it, it is a bad wire and should not be used. If it can, then it should be used. Super expensive wires costing $100, $1000, $10000, do not pass any more current than that of a cheap roll of 12 gauge OFC from Mediabridge or Monoprice. If they do, it’s so marginally small that it can barely be measured, much less be even heard.

Capacitance and Inductance in a normal wire have no effect on listening despite what audiophiles and snake oil speaker cable manufacturers may say.
 

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How so?

A wire passes current through it. If the wire can not pass the current through it, it is a bad wire and should not be used. If it can, then it should be used. Super expensive wires costing $100, $1000, $10000, do not pass any more current than that of a cheap roll of 12 gauge OFC from Mediabridge or Monoprice. If they do, it’s so marginally small that it can barely be measured, much less be even heard.

Capacitance and Inductance in a normal wire have no effect on listening despite what audiophiles and snake oil speaker cable manufacturers may say.
Well, connect a 4 Ohm resistor that can pass "enough current" in series to your cable and see for yourself. Actually there are quite garbage cheap cables that have significant more resistance than they should judging by their stated gauge. I encountered this myself, when cables measured not as expected at all.


That is why I recommend using local hardware (electrical appliance) store or canare - local hardware store will have more or less stated number because these cables are regulated (it is life-threatening to have house wiring that has wrong electrical parameters, so there are some regulations), and canare I just like how they flex, they don't smell and have a good matte black color and nice to work with their insulation in terms of soldering, etc.




source - https://www.audiosciencereview.com/forum/index.php?threads/when-12-gauge-wire-is-not-12-gauge.3/

A little bit extreme example, (you may try lower resistance) but with long cable runs that can easily "pass enough current" can have quite high resistance. Especially if it is "12 AWG" instead of 12 AWG. And I never said that you need to buy expensive cables, quite the contrary.


OK then, here's just about everything one needs to know about speaker wire and the voodoo behind it.

http://roger-russell.com/wire.htm

I like very secure connections, and I like no chance of stray strands mucking things up, especially where space between terminals is so tight on the back of a receiver, integrated amp, or AVR. I prefer locking banana plugs from Blue Jeans Cable or GLS. I've tried high-quality spade connectors and all of them seem to loosen up over time.

The real way to go is speakon or terminal connectors as in electrical appliances. Unfortunately, manufacturers still do these terrible terminals for banana plugs because they look pretty I guess.
 

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So what model of amplifier-wire-speaker interaction are you using to explain it with laws of physics?

No model(s) needed. Electricity doesn't care where it comes from or where it's going as long as it can get there unimpeded. It seems that the "audiophiles" of the world think that actual sound goes through cables or some other such nonsense. The only thing traveling through the cables is electricity.
 

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No model(s) needed. Electricity doesn't care where it comes from or where it's going as long as it can get there unimpeded. It seems that the "audiophiles" of the world think that actual sound goes through cables or some other such nonsense. The only thing traveling through the cables is electricity.
If there is no model, there is no physics, just your belief, no better than "audiophiles" beliefs that you despise.


Here is a fun physics experiment for you:
Disconnect your speaker from amplifier.
Gently tap on the cone, and listen to a sound.
Now, short speaker terminals with really short wire (your speaker wire will do if it is short and low AWG) and tap cone again, listen to a sound.
Some speakers are better than the others for this experiment but still some food for thought.
 

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If you use a higher gauge than recommend you risk distortion. It is your system so you can choose the higher gauge wire.

This is also not true - as if a precisely sized tube is needed to constrain electron flow, make the wire too large and electrons suddenly get confused. Minimum wire size is important only to keep DC resistance to an acceptable amount. Using a larger gauge has no benefit and also no drawbacks.
 

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Nope. Any wire that can pass the current needed over the required distance will result in the exact same speaker performance. There is no magic wire. ;)
Are you sure?

Someone needs to tell Best Buy!

https://www.bestbuy.com/site/audioquest-slip-499-in-wall-speaker-cable-white-silver-stripe/6288392.p?skuId=6288392

I bet this cable makes my blue-ray player look great!

https://www.bestbuy.com/site/audioquest-diamond-6-6-high-speed-hdmi-cable-dark-gray-blue/2383319.p?skuId=2383319

All kidding aside, I do believe there is a quality factor that can be considered but only to a reasonable degree. I have used banana plugs for twenty+ years and have had zero issues with shorts or them breaking. Dose not mean the possibilities don't exist, I just think it would be rare.

Update: If you hurry, you can get 24 month financing on the HDMI cable!
 
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