[stealthboy]

Hey all. I'm finally moving into a house with a perfect room in the basement for a HT. So I'm starting my research. I will most likely have to tear out some of the drywall that is there now and run wiring. So, what speaker wire should I run in-wall? And also what about running RGB component wire to the projector? I assume you all buy stuff on spools, correct? Or do you just buy pre-made lengths of it and adjust as necessary?


Sorry for the n00b question, but I'm just getting started...


-Mike

 

[E. Martin]

Mike. See comments below (in your orig. text).



Hey all. I'm finally moving into a house with a perfect room in the basement for a HT. So I'm starting my research. I will most likely have to tear out some of the drywall that is there now and run wiring. So, what speaker wire should I run in-wall? *** It needs to be rated for in wall use UL3 if memory serves. Others will recommend the Lowes or Home Depot stuff, I have used and will be using Liberty Wire again. It is not too expensive yet is very flexible and easy to work with.**


And also what about running RGB component wire to the projector? I assume you all buy stuff on spools, correct? Or do you just buy pre-made lengths of it and adjust as necessary? ** Either way can work. I purchased High end Belden and ran it through out my house for all video feeds. Even the crappy cable signal is going through premo cable. I will be terminating the ends myself as I already have the tools.**


Sorry for the n00b question, but I'm just getting started...


**Just a thought. You can remove the baseboard and run the cables down very low. Simply notch the drywall and run the cables, run them up the wall to jack height between the wall studs. You could do a similar thing and add chair railing. You just need to be very careful not to send a nail into the wire.**


Good luck!

 

[DMF]

CL3 rating (not UL3). That is not universally required, but there's so little price difference you might as well. Several other ratings are also acceptable, but CL3 is easy to find. You do not need a plenum-rated cable (e.g. CL3P).


For size, use 14 AWG stranded unless the runs are very long. (12 AWG is overkill for most runs and is too large for some connectors.) Buy on a spool, and buy considerably more than you think you will need. Strictly for in-wall, I would use something other than clear jacket. Clear jacket looks good, but has chemical stability issues and will eventually dry and crack.

 

[E. Martin]

Thanks for setting me straight on the cable rating. I knew it was one or the other. I guessed wrong.

 

[stealthboy]

Thanks guys! I'm basically starting my shopping list, so I'm over at cablestogo.com just looking at the myriad of connectors, plates, wires, etc. Great suggestion about running down behind the baseboards; thanks! However, I'm thinking if I'm going to do a HT, I might as well start off right and do two layers of drywall with Green Glue inbetween. So if I'm doing that already, I can get in there and run wires wherever I need...


EDIT: Oh yeah, and I have to run power, run connections to the ceiling for the projector, put in wall lights, etc... Might as well just tear through the drywall anyways.

 

[E. Martin]

My first theater was a rework of an existing room. The kids (4 of them) got a bit carried away in their "play room" one too many times. Poof it bacame a locked theater....


Poof took a bunch of time though. I went ahead and tore out all of the existing drywall and started over. Looking abck at things I would cut channels in it and run what I need. Patch those openings and apply the second layer of wall board with GG between. Save you a bunch of time, money, and an even larger mess!!!!!


Again, good luck!

 

[stealthboy]

Yes, I think you're right... I'll cut out channels and sections where I need them, but just keep most of the existing drywall, and put the second layer overtop.


Ok, so a question about the wiring and whatnot: Does everyone put jacks and connection plates for every wire coming into the room? Basically, I'm looking at the projector hookups, realizing that I need to run RGB, VGA, s-video, etc all through the ceiling. Should those runs be terminated at coupling jack plates installed in the ceiling (so then from the plate you run short cables to the projector itself), or do you just run the wires through some big conduit hole just sticking through the ceiling?

 

[ChrisWiggles]

The big conduit hole is preferred especially with video cabling you want to minimize the connections. Always run too much wire and conduit, things you don't expect to need. Extra-big conduit is a great idea because you can always run more later if you have a big conduit. Just run 12-gauge speaker wire *everywhere* too.

 

[takeaim]

An interesting article is www.roger-russell.com/wire/wire.htm

about speaker wire. I finally settled on Carol wire from PartsExpress because:

1. 12-2 may be overkill, but I like to be conservative regardless of length of run

2. Has two copper wires colored red and black

3. A full twist every 6" or so.

4. A jacket covering the two 12-gauge wires

5. "sound & security cable" typed on the 500 foot spool

6. UL listed

7. Type CL3R (UL) 75 deg C riser rated

8. "In-wall" typed on the spool

9. Stranded copper wire makes it easier to attach to terminals and route thru walls.


It worked well for me and I would certainly use the wire again.

Take aim