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Discussion Starter #1
I built my Stage knowing I wanted to see it with a shorter step up from the first step , I think it looks a little better than evenly spaced, almost like molding has different sizes to its routes .


I can easily raise it in any dimension of 1/4" but Im not sure an even number will look boring. the bottom step is 16' wide and the stage is 14' to match the 2.35:1 screen






I built it yesterday and today and the only part that stunk was filling it with fiberglass, I used some R-38 12" left over from raising the ceilings to 14' and 16' , trust people when they tell you to use blown in because after cramming in hundreds of dollars of batting that didnt cram in evenly I bought some blow in to top it all off. Other than that is was pretty entertaining and Ill post pictures in a couple days from further back when the entire thing is done, this is only about half of whats going to be the final product




heres a pic from 45' away, I added a fake screen for perception . The screen will be 14 wide 2.35:1 constant height




The riser is 12' x 12' x 10" tall to first level ( which is extending out inoto the rear doormers and curving to fit front side stages in doormers) and 22" to second level, they will hold 5 seats each for a total of 15.

On top of the columns is the Balcony and heres a shot from the "couch" from 40' away . the balcony is not finished but will be curved cantilever but out 1' past where the plywood is now



The Stages were built last weekend, the Riser and start of balcony was built this weekend


New pics with wider lense


 

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Discussion Starter #3
I have too many photos, I am getting a real digital camera today so I can get more realistic pics with a wider view. I have been filming the entire process in High Definition as well , Its kind of neat after I edit me out of the filming and show stages and such just flowing together 1 peice at a time
 

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Discussion Starter #7

Quote:
Originally Posted by Horta /forum/post/0


Mark


Awsome space!! Any more details on what Electronics you have chosen?

As of now

Digital Projections Mercury HD PJ,

IscoIII anamorphic lens,

Lumagen scaler

Denon AVR 5805

Denon DVD

4 (maybe 8) 15" Exodus EX subwoofers in an Infinite baffle design

driven by Adire Audio 1200 watt Plate amps

Exodus Extremis LCR front speakers

6 Exodus Extremis surrounds

All Drivers use Adire Audio XBL2 motor structure.

Exodus 9 channel Digital amp


I have not nailed down the automation as of yet
 

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WOW, I am in love with that Stage, can i have a copy of the Plans, I would love to put that stage in My HT . cant wait to see your finish product.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Plans? we dont use no stinkin plans. Seriously I can tell you how I did this but there are no plans. a decent plunge router and a couple 1/4"cut x 2-1/2" long (1" cutting ) upspiral bits , 12 sheets of 3/4" T&G OSB or Plywood ( I certainly prefer OSB but its heavy)


8 - 2x12x12'long Standard or Better

6 - 2x6x8'long SorB

1 sheet of 5/8 plywood


A 12" sliding Chop saw made this happen in a day, without it I would say this would take a hard boring weekend using a worm drive or circular 7-1/4 and a framing square.


I dont have time to explain how it was done till later this evening and will change the pics ( I got a new 8 megapixel playtoy today that takes much wide photos but I have dying grass so its back to rainbird maintainance, only 100 zones and 10 of them malfunctioning.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Ok heres how I did the stage/s

I snapped a chalkline for the back of the stage and found center

layed out 2 layers of 3/4" osb T&G staggered directions of seams between layers giving me a 16' wide x 8 ' deep layed out and screwed down "platform"


I made a compass out of a piece of 1x10x10' long pine board by tracing around my router base and routing half the wood out in this area so my router sunk in and was screwed too it then screwed the compass centered at the back middle and positioned the 1/4" bit at the inside of the groove of the T&G and routed through both layers in 3 passes to save on the bit overheating, your outside bottom step is done.


Move the compass back 1', rinse and repeat and your bottom step and stage top is done!!!


repeat the same process with 3/4" t&g plywood except I glued this and whipped out the finish nailer which Ill explain in a minute.


we are making the curved 2x4s now so we measure back 2" off our original 8' ( we want a lip on our stage) route the first route then use finish nailer and 1-1/2 nails or screws to "clamp" the 2 peices of wood together being careful not to go over the 3-1/2" depth( what I did was measure back my 3-1/2" and set the router bit to barely scratch the surface and made a full swoop showing my finished "2x4" ) then I nailed inside the 1st route and the scratch. Now route at the 3-1/2" wide mark and you have a complete 24' long perfect curved 2x4.


It gets slightly tricky here because I am cheap and wanted to conserve wood at $20 a sheet so I routed the first Stage 2x4 next, remember to drop 2" or whatever you want your lip at.


then I went back to the other stair 2x4 ( lets call this the bottom cord of our steps curved front wall, the top is already done ) you will notice you cant get a full sweep with what you have left but lay it out the same way coming up short a couple feet on the ends but dont worry you still have lots of wood left to finish these and if you just look at whats layed out you will see this clearly.


do this until you have 2 each for step and then for stage.


Now I layed the step and stage tops back down ( If I were you I would leave it from the beginning to save about 1/2 hour ) also when I routed I barely scratched the floor so I knew right where it layed back out .


Ready to build the step, lay bottom cord curved 2x4 down and screw it down in a couple places and cut 2x6 s from the front of this to the back of the stage 2x4 mine were 15" long and I think I cut 20 of them ( chop saw with a stop coming into play) then with a table saw or whatever cut 1-3/8" x 3-1/2 deep notches out of the end of the 2x6 ( thhis will flush up to the front of the 2x4 cords and sit on the floor as well as the top of the bottom cord and allow you to place the top cord down flush with the top of the 2x6) looking from the side of the 2x6 it will have like a 3" x 3-1/2" long extended peice right in the middle. I am probably confusing you but just look at the pics and notice the 2x6 joist are notched so they slide into the 2 2x4s but sit on the ground and flush to the top as well.


I layed these out at 16" centers on the front and used a calculator to figure the spacing on the back of these which was something like 13" then I used my Framing nailer with 3-1/2 nails and popped a nail straight through into the botom cord to stablize , layed out my top cord into the notched areas being careful to make sure I followed exactly flush and nailed these with framing nailer , you could use screws I sure, then I took a long board and screwed it about half way across side to side to stablize this monster so as to flip it over and nail the bottom cord on ,

Lay out your step wall on the floor , set your bottom stage cord on the back of the 2x6s nail it all together and fill in the blanks with 2x12 inside the stage area , then remake the 2x6 doohickies ( joists) except using 2x12 and doing the math , the sliding chop again come in real handy since I basically framed a square inside and then measured the top stage joist seperately 2 at a time ( left and right) thes had angles on the back but it was like 8 degrees, 16 degrees, 24 degrees up to like 48 degrees , its simple really if youve ever built anything with angle before and you will see what needs to be done clearly through the building stages


The plywood curved fronts are 5/8 ply ripped on a table saw at 5-3/8" wide

then using the trusty 12" sliding chop ( in my case a RIGID which has a depth of cut stop on it) I measured 1-1/2 " dots as in 1-1/2 markr dot ,3 dot,4-1/2 dot, 6 dot all the way to 96 " then I cut these 2 at a time to save time and marking ( again cant say enough about a 12" sliding chop) and cut about 3/16 deep at every dot across the 5-1/2 width , you may need help holding this because it gets flimsy about halfway , I used the trusty wife. Nail er on with the grooves in against the the wall , fill er up with sand or insulation, and put your top on and get Diana Krall or someone to come perform ! My wife asked where the poles were going when she was away and I almost let it slip and say over here and over......


If you have any questions or are going to build one send me a PM and we can exchange phone #s and I could walk you through it or help you if you get stuck.
 

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Mark,

May I enquire as to room dimensions, distance to front row of seating, etc. My bonus room of 20' X 27' is ready to go as we are in the layout stage your ideas are fantastic. Trying to get a handle on the scale of your room. Your help and input is appreciated.


Thanks, Glenn
 

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impressive....


Mark,


how do you plan on mounting your projector with that high of a ceiling while keeping it rigid and free from room vibrations caused by the subwoofer?
 

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Discussion Starter #14

Quote:
Originally Posted by gmanhdtv /forum/post/0


Mark,

May I enquire as to room dimensions, distance to front row of seating, etc. My bonus room of 20' X 27' is ready to go as we are in the layout stage your ideas are fantastic. Trying to get a handle on the scale of your room. Your help and input is appreciated.



Thanks, Glenn

No Problem Glenn! 19' x 40'

14' and 16' ceiling height


Seating positions from head to screen non reclined


18' 24' 30' and 42' in the Balcony which is more of a projector and equiptment holder than people holder for the obvious sound problems of having surrounds below even though the balcony will have its own 5.1 turned WAY down and completely treated to absorb all sound


The risers have a 1' curve across 12' so both the end seats will be about a foot closer
 

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Discussion Starter #15

Quote:
Originally Posted by power /forum/post/0


impressive....


Mark,


how do you plan on mounting your projector with that high of a ceiling while keeping it rigid and free from room vibrations caused by the subwoofer?

It mounts in the floor of the balcony with its own return air system venting the projector and equiptment, we came up with the balcony specifically for the projector so think of the Balcony as a larger than usual hushbox


The riser and balcony and basically everything in the room is isolated with pads suggested in another thread. the "shelf" the PJ sits on will be isolated yet again by being suspended in the joist system as you notice the large framing in the pics
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Had a friend tackle my sheetrocking because what took him and his crew 1 day would have takin me a week ( maybe more due to sheetrock burnout)


Pros are amazing 8 hours sheetrocked and fire taped.


Makes me feel pretty lame taking a month to raise the ceiling , frame/seal off IB subwoofer ( front 1/3 of room), stages, risers , balcony , and equiptment room, re-frame chandelier hole 6' diameter


 

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Discussion Starter #20
SRR,

No, not IN-SANE yet , I will save a few " surprises" for later.


It will be real hard to leave some things un photographed till the end.



Bud,

I planned on doing everything but the carpet, seats and drapes but I really dread sheetrock these days. I am so glad I didn't tackle this one and I learned some new tricks as well. Some things you just have to say " I'll pass this time and let the pros handle it".


KWhite,

The balcony is a glorified Hushbox that has evolved into several things like a way to the equipment room ( you can see the door on the back wall and a Plasma TV holder for Karaoke and other "events" .

You are correct though, its more than a HT as we plan several different "activitys" , Lets just say bachelor partys should take on a whole new light
 
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