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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello all,


Been reading alot of posts and figured I would hop in to show everyone my current theater progress and to get some expert suggestions on my theater.


I am going to start framing the stage. I am thinking of just a conventional frame with out any floating floor set up.


My plan is to enter at the same floor level at the entrance and then step down twice to two rows of seating. On that back entrance area I am going to have a bar height area where its more relaxed and will not interfere with the seats.


As you can see in the pictures, the floor was poured too low and I know I have to build up the floor. I have three exterior walls and one interior wall with another wall in front for sound proofing.


My questions are these:


1. for the exterior walls I was planning on conventional insulation batts with drywall. Do you think something extra should be done to keep the exterior noise out?? From a soundproofing stand point, its an exterior wall right??


2. For the interior wall, I was doing insulation batts with Mass loaded vinyl between the studs with drywall.


3. for the ceiling there is a walk in closet above, again conventional batts and drywall.


4. What type of insulation should I use under the flooring? I have a large cavity under there.


I plan on running two soffits on either side of the theater and for design elements, build out some curved arches and then step in the side panels to keep the walk ways wide.


I also plan on getting 4 to 5 seats per row. The first row is in within 11 feet. Do you think that is too close for a screen that I want at least 100"


Any help would be appreciated and I look forward to showing my progress and getting some great input.


Thank you


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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Forgot to mention that my theater is 17 ft wide and 24 ft long. The finished ceiling height in the back will be 9 ft and the front will be 11ft.


Any suggestions between the studs? Or just use regular insulation
 

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you have a great space there, plenty of room. i would build a ramp down to the seating area with floor lighting and for the inside walls, you could angle them to create non-parallel surfaces to increase the fullness of sound. good luck!
 

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Quote:
My questions are these:


1. for the exterior walls I was planning on conventional insulation batts with drywall. Do you think something extra should be done to keep the exterior noise out?? From a soundproofing stand point, its an exterior wall right??

Things you can do, provided you do them on all wall and ceiling surfaces:

2nd layer of drywall (5/8" recommended) with viscoelastic damping between them.

Resilient hangers for drywall.

Staggered, or even better, double studs.

Any combination of the above, though each additional one will yield diminishing returns.

Quote:
2. For the interior wall, I was doing insulation batts with Mass loaded vinyl between the studs with drywall.

Unless you are really pressed from wall depth, mass loaded vinyl has a much cheaper alternative for adding mass and therefore isolating sound: a layer of ordinary drywall.

Quote:
3. for the ceiling there is a walk in closet above, again conventional batts and drywall.

Conventional batts are fine everywhere, but again, do the same degree of sound isolation for the ceiling as for the walls.

Quote:
4. What type of insulation should I use under the flooring? I have a large cavity under there.

Just how deep is the cavity? If it is really deep, you have the option of a truly low resonant frequency floating floor, something which few people have!


- Terry
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by ccapozzoli /forum/post/0


Hello all,

I also plan on getting 4 to 5 seats per row. The first row is in within 11 feet. Do you think that is too close for a screen that I want at least 100"

My theater will have a 100" screen. I've got the first row set with their eyes 9' from the screen and the second row's eyes at 15'. The first row seems a tad close and the second a bit far, so it's a good compromise.


You mentioned your screen would be at least 100"; I would think that 11' away would be very well suited to a 110" screen.


Ron
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Terry,


The cavity under the floor is large. I am thinking a volume of 1,508 Cubic feet under the floor. That's why from a cost stand point I was going to just fill it with Batt Insulation.


AS far as the floating floor idea, I was just going to frame in conventional from the slab up. Lay some PT on the flat down on the slab and frame up from there. I wall make sure it really stiff. It will not really be tied to the side walls, just from the slab. I was not going to put the joist on bushings or anything like that.


Thoughts??

Chris
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Tony,


One more question...


Do you think the resilient channels are really necessary for my application? I only have one interior wall and the ceiling (sorta of because its just a closet). That is more for sound proofing than for acoustics? correct??


Thanks

Chris
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by ccapozzoli /forum/post/0


Tony,


One more question...


Do you think the resilient channels are really necessary for my application? I only have one interior wall and the ceiling (sorta of because its just a closet). That is more for sound proofing than for acoustics? correct??


Thanks

Chris

I don't recommend resilient channel in any case because of the high failure rate due to shorting out the isolation. Resilient isolation clips are the superior items.


And yes, it is just for sound isolation. However sound isolation construction also makes your theater quieter, and this enhances the sound.


I'm not clear on how you were planning to support the floor with fiberglass batts beneath it.


- Terry
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Terry,


Once the floor is framed, I will have a large volume under it. Because of that, I was going to fill that cavity with fiberglass insulation. I will just fill it all up. The framing of the floor and the supports will be framed from the slab up.
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by ccapozzoli /forum/post/0


Terry,


Once the floor is framed, I will have a large volume under it. Because of that, I was going to fill that cavity with fiberglass insulation. I will just fill it all up. The framing of the floor and the supports will be framed from the slab up.

Fiberglass batts between the floor joists should be fine.


- Terry
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by ccapozzoli /forum/post/0


Thanks Terry,


So your saying that I do not need to fill the entire cavity, just the joists, the steps? And leave the cavity open???


Thanks for you help

Chris

The joists should be on the concrete. If this isn't the case, I don't have enough information on your proposed subfloor construction to make any meaningful recommendations.


- Terry
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Latest update. This week my framers were able to frame the theater flooring, risers and the stage. Here are also pics of how the floor was built and the large cavity under it.


The stage


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The stage and the tiered flooring


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Flooring going in. Notice the cavity



View under the floor


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It looks like some of that insulation is half out already. If there is any vibration, I expect it would fall out and end up uselessly laying on the concrete floor.
 
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