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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
So I have been trying to figure out what to do about my basement for a while now:

Rectangle Font Slope Parallel Pattern


It's a large space and I didn't have any idea what would provide enough volume. After spending quite a while going down the infinite baffle rabbit hole I decided it would be too expensive. After getting the JBL 12" subs for $30 from Best Buy, I have finally committed to the Quad 12" JBL Devastator. I'm calling it a stealth build because the sub is actually going to be behind the wall (under the stairs), with a hole in the wall for the ports and a grill to cover it.

So first step is always to get lumber, which is really damn expensive these days. 3 sheets of Radiata ply and 3 2x4s was $170. The wood is costing more than the drivers. Anyway, loaded up from home depot:
Vehicle Motor vehicle Hood Automotive tire Trunk


My friend helped me cut it with his track saw:
Wood Road surface Grass Asphalt Flooring


All cut and ready to go (the sub will actually go behind this wall under these stairs):
Wood Flooring Floor Rectangle Beige


I 3d printed a router jig for the speaker holes:
Wood Rectangle Composite material Auto part Metal


Next steps are to try out the router jig and the router. Yes, this is my first time using a router. Lets see how it goes. Coming soon...
 

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I have 4 duel jbl 12 devs, and I am building a quad 12 for the rear of the room.

I plan on building another duel and another quad dev. I want to put them on the other side of the wall. I had thought about building them into the wall but was worried about vibrations. I look forward to seeing if you have any issues with the going through the wall extending the ports by 3.75 in.
 

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I presume you are doing a downfiring version? If not, it's a bit late now, but I like my DF quad 12's.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Not bad for a first timer! For some reason my little palm router was having a lot of trouble so it took 3 passes for each opening.

Wood Rectangle Art Flooring Beige


I tried making recesses for the speakers to sit in, but they are about 1/16 too small so the padding on the driver doesn't fit in all the way around. Not sure if I should still mount to this side or mount to the clean side

Wood Rectangle Circle Composite material Concrete
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I plan on building another duel and another quad dev. I want to put them on the other side of the wall. I had thought about building them into the wall but was worried about vibrations. I look forward to seeing if you have any issues with the going through the wall extending the ports by 3.75 in.
My goal is to make the opening large enough that it won't affect the tune of the ports.
 

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Any particular reason you went with that type of wood over MDF? I know it is much neater to work with, but in a project like yours where it is pretty much hidden, looks don't matter.

I used this : https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07VNGTGMV?ref=ppx_yo2_dt_b_product_details&th=1

Does a nice job. I had a spare plunge router that I setup with this now. I still have another large router for other uses, plus a small palm router.

You need to to the larger hole first, test fit the sub and make sure you have the depth where you want it, and the diameter, then do the smaller hole. Once the center is gone, that's it for having a nice pivot point ;) ................

Anyway, get these done ASAP! I am so damn tempted to buy another 8 to make two quad cabs at this price! I already purchased 8, but plan on using them under the couch. Haven't decided which project to tackle first. :)
 

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Any particular reason you went with that type of wood over MDF? I know it is much neater to work with, but in a project like yours where it is pretty much hidden, looks don't matter.

I used this : https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07VNGTGMV?ref=ppx_yo2_dt_b_product_details&th=1

Does a nice job. I had a spare plunge router that I setup with this now. I still have another large router for other uses, plus a small palm router.

You need to to the larger hole first, test fit the sub and make sure you have the depth where you want it, and the diameter, then do the smaller hole. Once the center is gone, that's it for having a nice pivot point ;) ................

Anyway, get these done ASAP! I am so damn tempted to buy another 8 to make two quad cabs at this price! I already purchased 8, but plan on using them under the couch. Haven't decided which project to tackle first. :)
If you want pictures I have two of the upright cabinets, and three of the downfiring version. I have various amounts of pictures from the builds, just let me know.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Any particular reason you went with that type of wood over MDF? I know it is much neater to work with, but in a project like yours where it is pretty much hidden, looks don't matter.

I used this : https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07VNGTGMV?ref=ppx_yo2_dt_b_product_details&th=1

Does a nice job. I had a spare plunge router that I setup with this now. I still have another large router for other uses, plus a small palm router.

You need to to the larger hole first, test fit the sub and make sure you have the depth where you want it, and the diameter, then do the smaller hole. Once the center is gone, that's it for having a nice pivot point ;) ................

Anyway, get these done ASAP! I am so damn tempted to buy another 8 to make two quad cabs at this price! I already purchased 8, but plan on using them under the couch. Haven't decided which project to tackle first. :)
I chose this wood because it seemed to be the most recommended for strength and weight. Honestly everything else in 3/4 was just as expensive or more expensive (including MDF). I was going to avoid MDF because it's heavy, messy, and difficult to work with.
Regarding the jig...it cost me $1 in material to 3D print the jig I used, and about 20 minutes to design it in CAD. A much more cost effective solution. It's just that since I had never done this before I got the position of one pivot hole just slightly wrong. :) No biggie though.
 

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Not bad for a first timer! For some reason my little palm router was having a lot of trouble so it took 3 passes for each opening.

View attachment 3200743

I tried making recesses for the speakers to sit in, but they are about 1/16 too small so the padding on the driver doesn't fit in all the way around. Not sure if I should still mount to this side or mount to the clean side

View attachment 3200744
I would mount to the clean side, but I usually roundover both sides.
 

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I chose this wood because it seemed to be the most recommended for strength and weight. Honestly everything else in 3/4 was just as expensive or more expensive (including MDF). I was going to avoid MDF because it's heavy, messy, and difficult to work with.
Regarding the jig...it cost me $1 in material to 3D print the jig I used, and about 20 minutes to design it in CAD. A much more cost effective solution. It's just that since I had never done this before I got the position of one pivot hole just slightly wrong. :) No biggie though.
I somehow missed the two holes you made on the jig! I thought you tried to freehand the recess and was actually amazed at the precision. Now I know how you did it!

Heck, why not 3D print it if you can. You can make templates for different drivers and just hang them on your wall, or, a side business..................... Four screws and cut a different hole, I love the idea! Cut me in on the deal and make me a few........ ;)

MDF is about $48 a sheet around here. And it is messsssy to cut. I do it outside, but that is easy for me. I know many don't have that opportunity.

Baltic Birch is certainly the ideal material. 13 layers, really nice finish, strong yet lighter than MDF. My Devs from GSG are made from it. But that stuff is big $$$$ around here, so I sue MDF and veneer, which comes out to about the same price! :( But I can chose to veneer it or not..........
 

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If you want pictures I have two of the upright cabinets, and three of the downfiring version. I have various amounts of pictures from the builds, just let me know.
Yes please! I need some winter projects. I don't do cold well, and have the time and space to make things.
I still have several speaker projects to do, primarily I need to finish my 1099's then get to the Vortex-15's. I really can't wait to do those two! I have a set of Vortex-12's coming, but they can wait. I want to play with these JBL's first.

After I see your pictures I may have to order some more............ Glad my wife is so tolerant! :)
But they are not in our living room, so she lets me do as I please in my music room. :)

Either post the pictures here or PM them to me. EIther way is fine, thanks!
 

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Any particular reason you went with that type of wood over MDF? I know it is much neater to work with, but in a project like yours where it is pretty much hidden, looks don't matter...
I chose this wood because it seemed to be the most recommended for strength and weight. Honestly everything else in 3/4 was just as expensive or more expensive (including MDF). I was going to avoid MDF because it's heavy, messy, and difficult to work with...
I just finished building a BMD Devastator with the same wood and have build a few others with MDF. This is the biggest devastator I've built yet and it's a featherweight compared to MDF. The wood came recommended by at least one other who knows his stuff and for me it was only $9 more per sheet and I say it's well worth the added cost. It's good quality and more durable than MDF too. It was so much nicer on this old guy when I lugged this thing down a set of stairs with a 90 degree bend! If my stairs had a flat landing it would be so much easier.
Cabinetry Wood Interior design Wood stain Flooring
Picture frame Building Easel Wood Art
Property Building Fixture Wood Stairs
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Baltic Birch is certainly the ideal material. 13 layers, really nice finish, strong yet lighter than MDF. My Devs from GSG are made from it. But that stuff is big $$$$ around here, so I sue MDF and veneer, which comes out to about the same price! :( But I can chose to veneer it or not..........
Yeah this is Radiata Pine, it cost $49 a sheet.

I just finished building a BMD Devastator with the same wood and have build a few others with MDF. This is the biggest devastator I've built yet and it's a featherweight compared to MDF. The wood came recommended by at least one other who knows his stuff and for me it was only $9 more per sheet and I say it's well worth the added cost. It's good quality and more durable than MDF too. It was so much nicer on this old guy when I lugged this thing down a set of stairs with a 90 degree bend! If my stairs had a flat landing it would be so much easier.
I like how you finished that cab. Makes it look like a cabinet if it's painted to match the rest.
 

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I just finished building a BMD Devastator with the same wood and have build a few others with MDF. This is the biggest devastator I've built yet and it's a featherweight compared to MDF. The wood came recommended by at least one other who knows his stuff and for me it was only $9 more per sheet and I say it's well worth the added cost. It's good quality and more durable than MDF too. It was so much nicer on this old guy when I lugged this thing down a set of stairs with a 90 degree bend! If my stairs had a flat landing it would be so much easier.
View attachment 3200790 View attachment 3200794 View attachment 3200796
I am VERY fortunate in that I get to build my enclosures right next to where they will reside!
I put the Devs on locking casters, rolled them from the shop into my music room. I could not imagine trying to carry them up or down any stairs, especially a set like yours with a turn in it!
Nice cabinet, let us know how it feels when you get it going.
 

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Yeah this is Radiata Pine, it cost $49 a sheet.

I like how you finished that cab. Makes it look like a cabinet if it's painted to match the rest.
Thanks! I used a table saw and cut down extra sanders plywood from Home Depot which is about a 1/4". Looking forward to your impressions of the JBL Dev. Looks to be about the most cost effective way to get big performance! :)

I am VERY fortunate in that I get to build my enclosures right next to where they will reside!
I put the Devs on locking casters, rolled them from the shop into my music room. I could not imagine trying to carry them up or down any stairs, especially a set like yours with a turn in it!
Nice cabinet, let us know how it feels when you get it going.
Yes that makes moving those very easy. Thanks for the compliment and I'll definitely post some impressions.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Yeah same on the construction here, I am doing all assembly work in the basement. Temperature controlled, and assembled where it will be installed. 90% of the cutting is done...I may have a bit of a mess to clean up from some small cuts or edge cleanup but oh well. Sawdust isn't hard to vacuum up.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
I did some assembly, and of course I screwed up already. 😭 I glued the port rails to the port board instead of the bottom board to aid in assembly later, and I didn't realize the port rails need to bet set back 3/4" on the port board.
@a77cj7 has advised that I can just shim the rails in the back and it will be purely cosmetic, which is fine by me as this is going to be hidden behind a grille.

Rectangle Wood Floor Flooring Table
 
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