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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
So I have been trying to figure out what to do about my basement for a while now:

Rectangle Font Slope Parallel Pattern


It's a large space and I didn't have any idea what would provide enough volume. After spending quite a while going down the infinite baffle rabbit hole I decided it would be too expensive. After getting the JBL 12" subs for $30 from Best Buy, I have finally committed to the Quad 12" JBL Devastator. I'm calling it a stealth build because the sub is actually going to be behind the wall (under the stairs), with a hole in the wall for the ports and a grill to cover it.

So first step is always to get lumber, which is really damn expensive these days. 3 sheets of Radiata ply and 3 2x4s was $170. The wood is costing more than the drivers. Anyway, loaded up from home depot:
Vehicle Motor vehicle Hood Automotive tire Trunk


My friend helped me cut it with his track saw:
Wood Road surface Grass Asphalt Flooring


All cut and ready to go (the sub will actually go behind this wall under these stairs):
Wood Flooring Floor Rectangle Beige


I 3d printed a router jig for the speaker holes:
Wood Rectangle Composite material Auto part Metal


Next steps are to try out the router jig and the router. Yes, this is my first time using a router. Lets see how it goes. Coming soon...
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Not bad for a first timer! For some reason my little palm router was having a lot of trouble so it took 3 passes for each opening.

Wood Rectangle Art Flooring Beige


I tried making recesses for the speakers to sit in, but they are about 1/16 too small so the padding on the driver doesn't fit in all the way around. Not sure if I should still mount to this side or mount to the clean side

Wood Rectangle Circle Composite material Concrete
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I plan on building another duel and another quad dev. I want to put them on the other side of the wall. I had thought about building them into the wall but was worried about vibrations. I look forward to seeing if you have any issues with the going through the wall extending the ports by 3.75 in.
My goal is to make the opening large enough that it won't affect the tune of the ports.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Any particular reason you went with that type of wood over MDF? I know it is much neater to work with, but in a project like yours where it is pretty much hidden, looks don't matter.

I used this : https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07VNGTGMV?ref=ppx_yo2_dt_b_product_details&th=1

Does a nice job. I had a spare plunge router that I setup with this now. I still have another large router for other uses, plus a small palm router.

You need to to the larger hole first, test fit the sub and make sure you have the depth where you want it, and the diameter, then do the smaller hole. Once the center is gone, that's it for having a nice pivot point ;) ................

Anyway, get these done ASAP! I am so damn tempted to buy another 8 to make two quad cabs at this price! I already purchased 8, but plan on using them under the couch. Haven't decided which project to tackle first. :)
I chose this wood because it seemed to be the most recommended for strength and weight. Honestly everything else in 3/4 was just as expensive or more expensive (including MDF). I was going to avoid MDF because it's heavy, messy, and difficult to work with.
Regarding the jig...it cost me $1 in material to 3D print the jig I used, and about 20 minutes to design it in CAD. A much more cost effective solution. It's just that since I had never done this before I got the position of one pivot hole just slightly wrong. :) No biggie though.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Baltic Birch is certainly the ideal material. 13 layers, really nice finish, strong yet lighter than MDF. My Devs from GSG are made from it. But that stuff is big $$$$ around here, so I sue MDF and veneer, which comes out to about the same price! :( But I can chose to veneer it or not..........
Yeah this is Radiata Pine, it cost $49 a sheet.

I just finished building a BMD Devastator with the same wood and have build a few others with MDF. This is the biggest devastator I've built yet and it's a featherweight compared to MDF. The wood came recommended by at least one other who knows his stuff and for me it was only $9 more per sheet and I say it's well worth the added cost. It's good quality and more durable than MDF too. It was so much nicer on this old guy when I lugged this thing down a set of stairs with a 90 degree bend! If my stairs had a flat landing it would be so much easier.
I like how you finished that cab. Makes it look like a cabinet if it's painted to match the rest.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Yeah same on the construction here, I am doing all assembly work in the basement. Temperature controlled, and assembled where it will be installed. 90% of the cutting is done...I may have a bit of a mess to clean up from some small cuts or edge cleanup but oh well. Sawdust isn't hard to vacuum up.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
I did some assembly, and of course I screwed up already. 😭 I glued the port rails to the port board instead of the bottom board to aid in assembly later, and I didn't realize the port rails need to bet set back 3/4" on the port board.
@a77cj7 has advised that I can just shim the rails in the back and it will be purely cosmetic, which is fine by me as this is going to be hidden behind a grille.

Rectangle Wood Floor Flooring Table
 

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Discussion Starter · #25 ·
Also, your very brave using glue over carpet.
Yes that is why I had it sitting up on those scrap pieces, to keep it off the carpet. The PL3X is very thick and doesn't drip. I wouldn't do this with wood glue for sure. I think now that the key alignment pieces are done, I will put down some cardboard or something for the remaining work. I just wanted to make sure that everything with these first 3 pieces lined up correctly.
 

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Discussion Starter · #29 ·
Thanks @jmilleril

So after a brief thanksgiving hiatus I am back at it. Unfortunately it looks like some panels are warping and it's made assembly a bit challenging:

Cat Felidae Wood Carnivore Flooring
Brown Wood Beige Wood stain Floor

Furniture Table Wood Door Beige


I ended up using self drilling wood screws into the ends along with brad nails to hold everything in place. Everything looks good except for this gap, which I guess I will have to fill with some PL3:

Brown Wood Beige Rectangle Floor


I cut the front supports before I left for thanksgiving. Ugly job but functional:


Brown Beige Rectangle Wood Flooring

Rectangle Wood Beige Flooring Wall


Baffle divider installed:
Wood Rectangle Hardwood Wood stain Flooring
 

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Discussion Starter · #31 ·
If you are storing your panels in the basement during the build process, it might be best to store them on the main floor. I left my wood in the garage. I know if I leave 2x4s or something in the basement laying on the floor they will warp.

When all said and done everying inside the box won't be seen so if everything is all sealed up tightly you'll be good (speaking from experience :D).
Yeah thank goodness this is going to be hidden behind a wall because it's coming out pretty ugly...

Almost ready for the other side panel!
Wood Hardwood Gas Flooring Table


The warpage is bad...lost 1/4" off the end of one port. The other 2 are fine. I'm likely going to block one anyway for lower end response.


Shoe Furniture Shelf Wood Shelving
 

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Discussion Starter · #34 · (Edited)
So I actually have very little glue between the joints. That isn't the concern:

Table Wood Rectangle Floor Wood stain


The problem is this top panel is really warped:

Table Wood Rectangle Desk Wood stain


It created this gap in the front baffle:

Brown Wood Floor Flooring Beige


So now the bottom panels (port and bottom panel) are just a bit too far out. I can get the side panel to fit but it's not going to be perfect. I'll have to clean it up with a router and a sander somehow. That explains why the end port in my previous post is tapered. Looks like the other side will be a bit as well.
 

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Discussion Starter · #37 ·
The gap looks like you’re already in trouble, but can you pull the enclosure back to square with the side panel via creative clamping?

This is why I like to assemble through the second side panel before anything is dry, gives more leeway for clamping square.

Chris
Yeah I imagine you can work that fast after building a few of these but no way for me to get that far before stuff dries. :p

I think I can get it close to square... Trying to come up with a plan before I put any glue down.
 

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Discussion Starter · #47 ·
Cuts are correct, I don't have clamps large enough to reach corner to corner, that's over 55" long! I guess I could buy some longer pipes for my pipe clamps. Not sure it would help at this point. I feel like the internal baffle isn't glued to the proper spots so I can't straighten it out.
 
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