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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
When I built my HT room, I had a motion sensor wired and located in such a way that when someone walked near the riser step, it would trigger the steplight to turn on.


The steplight is a standard 120V fixture. Because I want the light to be very dim, I ended up using a 7.5W bulb (yes, they do have large bulbs with standard sockets in 7.5W rating!).


The problem is that apparently, the motion sensor needs a larger load to function correctly. (I think I read 50W on the package?) It is currently working only half the time, before it starts blinking on/off like crazy and eventually kills the bulb.


Now, if I could get this to work correctly, the whole steplight+motionsensor idea would work wonders...

 

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That's a pretty cool idea, gnolivos. Jsut have the step light on when it is needed. Sorry it didn't work!


Could you put somethign else in series with the little light in order to get the wattage up? Perhaps a 60W light in your equipment room or even just a small resistor in the line?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I just found that there are some (rather pricey) switches with NO LOAD REQUIREMENT. I may just have to buy one then...
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
You cannot see it in the picture above, but it is in fact between the first and 2 row, on the side wall (towards the back of that picture).


Its not a perfect location, but I had several constraints!
 

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I have ones that plug into outlets on my step and are always on and in no way interfer with movie viewing.

I was wondering do you have sensors that would sense movement ON the riser as well as coming up to it before ascending?

Personally I would find a light coming on and off as someone came or left to be more distracting. And you must be able to see the light in decending a step during a movie.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
It's a good question. What I do, is set the timeout to approx 2 hours. The idea behind this, is that when it senses movement, it turns the riser light ON as someone approaches the riser step. It will remain ON for the next ~ 2 hours (it actually starts counting again once it detects any movement from people on the riser itself). So, it basically stays ON for the entire movie session, and is never causing distraction with constant ON/OFF. The riser light is extremely dim, and only there so people notice there is a step. In no ay does it cast any light onto the screen.


When we leave the room, it will eventually turn off the riser light, and stay off until the next showing.


I really wantd it only to ensure it didn't remain ON unnecessarily...

Quote:
Originally Posted by McCall /forum/post/14166927


I have ones that plug into outlets on my step and are always on and in no way interfer with movie viewing.

I was wondering do you have sensors that would sense movement ON the riser as well as coming up to it before ascending?

Personally I would find a light coming on and off as someone came or left to be more distracting. And you must be able to see the light in decending a step during a movie.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Well, I found a new motion sensor switch manufactured by RAB which does NOT have a minimum load requirement. I tested it first in the garage switch (quicker access) and it worked perfectly with a 7.5W bulb.


HOWEVER! When I wired it in the HT room, it immediately pops the GFCI that is in the same circuit. Why?! The old sensor had no issues in this same spot. Can anyone provide some guidance on what may be happenning here?
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Kevin,


Like I said, the old switch works fine. Same wiring scheme. Went back and forth between the 2 switches, and only the new one causes the GFI to jump. CONFUSED!!
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kevin_Wadsworth /forum/post/14242403


Well, this may be obvious, but did you check your wiring? My guess would be that when you wired it into the theater there is a short somewhere.
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by gnolivos /forum/post/14242780


Kevin,


Like I said, the old switch works fine. Same wiring scheme. Went back and forth between the 2 switches, and only the new one causes the GFI to jump. CONFUSED!!

Post a link to the switch. Even though they look the same same they may work differently. Its is an IRmotion sensor or ultrasonic, these are simple things that might make a difference.


If the is not load minimum, something has to make up for the load difference, maybe thats why the other switch didn't work. Those low wattages bulbs are making some "unbalanced" current somewhere.


If this is your switch that "Zero arc point" switching might be causing a problem. Its like putting a GFCI on a GFCI.
http://www.rabweb.com/product_detail...ct=LOS800I/120 And what is California Title 24 standards. I am an P.E. in NY State and thats not part of the national code.
 

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OK, California title 24 is an spec for energy efficiency.
 
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