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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I’m looking for one below $1000. Everything I’ve found so far tops out at 100w per channel in stereo. I’ve seen more watts per channel but then they fall into an AVR set up for 5.1 and beyond, which is overkill for my stereo wants. TIA


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Why? Do you have inefficient speakers?
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
My current setup up is:

Yamaha RN303
Pair of Elac Debut 2.0 6.2

But I’d like to eventually upgrade to floor stand speakers and I’m not sure my current receiver would have enough to push what I would eventually get. Also, adding mono blocks or a stereo amp may not be possible with the connections I have on my unit.

If anyone sees a solution I’m missing with my current setup please show me the light. Thanks.


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Larger floor standing speakers are typically more efficient than bookshelves, it's a bit counterintuitive. If you want tons of volume there's plenty of affordable ones that are 90dB or more. Klipsch RP spring to mind, their mid-tier floorstander the RP-5000F is listed at 96dB. Andrew Jones, the guy who designed the Elac Debut (and many other speakers) has a habit of making really power hungry small speakers to achieve better bass response.
 

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You might try just getting a receiver you really like and then use a separate power amp.
I have a Pioneer SX727 and I have recapped it twice. It was low on power too, 27ish

watts per channel. I bought a Crown XLS series drivecore 2 1002 amp for about 199.00
on sale. 215w per channel stereo @ 8 ohms. I figured it was so inexpensive I would give it a

shot. I was using old Bose 301 speakers and was amazed how much better the Crown worked
Just incredible.

Class D amps with good DSP processing built in, the XLS amps are ridiculously good.
And cheap too!


I lost all control recently and bought a XLS 2502 on sale. And 2 SRX835 pro cabs to drive.
I am sure many would disagree but I like big drivers for the bass and huge cabinets too.

These 3 ways have 15 inch lf drivers and are also 96db/watt at 1 meter.


I now have the most ridiculous system I have ever used, At 8 ohms stereo the 2502 is rated at
440w per channel...plenty for any normal house. No need for subs either.


I strongly recommend the XLS drivecore 2 amp line. They are quiet, powerful, and flat. And they weigh
nothing! (unlike my ridiculous speaker choice). No one has to settle for low power anymore...
Buy an inexpensive pro amp (or amps) and go nuts. Seriously, I can't get over how well these amps perform!
 

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Myth. The cost of the speaker has got nothing to do with the required rated output of the amplifier.
MYTH - the cost suggested as a 'starting point' for harder to drive, esoteric speakers begin in that range. A $10 speaker can generally be driven by a 9 volt powered AM transistor radio while that same AM transistor radio wouldn't begin to be heard on [generally] $2000 speakers.
 
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Myth. The cost of the speaker has got nothing to do with the required rated output of the amplifier.
Agreed.

The power needed for a speaker with a typical 8 ohm load depends on:

- how loud you like your music and how dynamic it is

- the size of the room
- how many speakers are contributing to the main sound (don't count surround speakers)
- the reflectivity of the room (to a small degree)
- the amount of boundary reinforcement (although this does not boost output uniformly. It favors the bass.]
- the seated distance

and the really big one. . .

- the speaker's sensitivity, usually expressed as "X dB SPL output measured at 1 meter with 1 watt input (or 2.83V into an 8ohm load)"

In a loose sense you "need less power" if you use a bass-managed sub providing its own power for the the most power hungry part of the music to reproduce, the deep bass, but this added perk is smaller than most people realize.
 

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Myth. The cost of the speaker has got nothing to do with the required rated output of the amplifier.

It was just a simple statement, not a hard fact. Obviously cost really has nothing to do with it, but I'd like to know what speakers under that pricepoint couldn't be run with a true 100wpc.

If you'd like to add that info, I'd be all ears.

(but it's going to be the flat panels of the world, which is why I said 95% and not 100%).
 

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The difference between 100 wpc and 150 wpc is 1.5dB, i.e. barely perceptible by the human ear.

Let's say your speaker is 84dB efficient (1 watt, at one meter) , so here is how it goes, using those 150 watts:

87dB @ 2 watts
90dB @ 4 watts
93dB @ 8 watts
96dB @ 16 watts
99dB @ 32 watts
102dB @ 64 watts
105dB @ 128 watts

Yeah you subtract a few dB for additional distance, but as you can see, the difference in dB, once you begin to get up there in power, is minimal. Plus, 84dB is really loud at just one watt. I typically listen at 75 dB, as that is a comfortable level for my ears in my room (using about .1 watt @ 84 dB efficiency rating).

Your speakers are rated for 120 watts max. They are also rated at 87 dB efficiency, so halve the power requirements at each level in my example (i.e. only 64 watts required to reach 105 dB).

Power is overblown. Most folks never even use 10 watts ...
 

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The difference between 100 wpc and 150 wpc is 1.5dB, i.e. barely perceptible by the human ear.

Let's say your speaker is 84dB efficient (1 watt, at one meter) , so here is how it goes, using those 150 watts:

87dB @ 2 watts
90dB @ 4 watts
93dB @ 8 watts
96dB @ 16 watts
99dB @ 32 watts
102dB @ 64 watts
105dB @ 128 watts

Yeah you subtract a few dB for additional distance, but as you can see, the difference in dB, once you begin to get up there in power, is minimal. Plus, 84dB is really loud at just one watt. I typically listen at 75 dB, as that is a comfortable level for my ears in my room.

Your speakers are rated for 120 watts max. They are also rated at 87 dB efficiency, so halve the power requirements at each level in my example (i.e. only 64 watts required to reach 105 dB).

Power is overblown. Most folks never even use 10 watts ...



For decades I used about 27 watts per channel. It was enough with efficient speakers for neighbors to complain.
But...that system just caved when confronted with more modern music with ridiculous bass levels. It was enough for Vivaldi...not enough for the Matrix soundtrack. My over 400 watts per channel is very economical compared to my old Pioneer rig and being Class D it probably uses less power on average at normal levels.
That being said...sometimes I like to rock very hard and 27 watts does not cut it. My new amp laughs at demanding bass notes. That being said, with efficient speakers ([email protected] [email protected] meter) 100 watts per channel
run wide open will enable you to meet the neighbors and the police.



When all else fails...putting on a pair of Sennheiser HD600's will destroy most speaker/amp combos...and the room they are in. So many people forget how important the room is. I still do not have a correct one.


Almost no one does! Phones...the route taken by the very picky...and the most economical too!
 

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For decades I used about 27 watts per channel. It was enough with efficient speakers for neighbors to complain.
But...that system just caved when confronted with more modern music with ridiculous bass levels. It was enough for Vivaldi...not enough for the Matrix soundtrack. My over 400 watts per channel is very economical compared to my old Pioneer rig and being Class D it probably uses less power on average at normal levels.
That being said...sometimes I like to rock very hard and 27 watts does not cut it. My new amp laughs at demanding bass notes. That being said, with efficient speakers ([email protected] [email protected] meter) 100 watts per channel
run wide open will enable you to meet the neighbors and the police.



When all else fails...putting on a pair of Sennheiser HD600's will destroy most speaker/amp combos...and the room they are in. So many people forget how important the room is. I still do not have a correct one.


Almost no one does! Phones...the route taken by the very picky...and the most economical too!
His speakers are not made for "ridiculous bass levels". Right tool for the job.
 

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The difference between 100 wpc and 150 wpc is 1.5dB, i.e. barely perceptible by the human ear.

Let's say your speaker is 84dB efficient (1 watt, at one meter) , so here is how it goes, using those 150 watts:

87dB @ 2 watts
90dB @ 4 watts
93dB @ 8 watts
96dB @ 16 watts
99dB @ 32 watts
102dB @ 64 watts
105dB @ 128 watts

Yeah you subtract a few dB for additional distance, but as you can see, the difference in dB, once you begin to get up there in power, is minimal. Plus, 84dB is really loud at just one watt. I typically listen at 75 dB, as that is a comfortable level for my ears in my room (using about .1 watt @ 84 dB efficiency rating).

Your speakers are rated for 120 watts max. They are also rated at 87 dB efficiency, so halve the power requirements at each level in my example (i.e. only 64 watts required to reach 105 dB).

Power is overblown. Most folks never even use 10 watts ...
Power is for peaks and to overcome load more complex than a simple resistor.

Also - Watts are misleading and we really should use current and voltage if we really want to understand how much power we need. And ability to be used on complex loads.
 

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Power is for peaks and to overcome load more complex than a simple resistor.

Also - Watts are misleading and we really should use current and voltage if we really want to understand how much power we need. And ability to be used on complex loads.
Yes. it's far more complex, but the above is far easier to understand for the layman. If you'd like to take on the task of explaining the more complex aspects, feel free ...
 
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