[MrWigggles]

I am looking to attach stewart ultramat 150 material to my homemade curved screen.


I don't need any framing (I think Stewart screens need only mild tensioning correct?). I just need the raw material in a 48" by 86" size.


Is it available this way and from whom?


-Mr. Wigggles


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The Mothership is now boarding.

 

[REW]

Wiggles,

What about MDI,suppliers of Imax screen materials in MTL.Check their website as KBK(Ken)suggests.

Do you have double curve and what depth of curve?

Didnt you do that Imax screen tryout(or am I losing it?)
http://www.avsforum.com/ubb/smile.gif Ron


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Ron

"Your priorities will be different-its the weighting that counts!"

 

[Don Stewart]

Quote:

Originally posted by MrWigggles: I am looking to attach stewart ultramat 150 material to my homemade curved screen. I don't need any framing (I think Stewart screens need only mild tensioning correct?). I just need the raw material in a 48" by 86" size. Is it available this way and from whom? -Mr. Wigggles

Yes, Mr Wigggles, we ship raw screen fabric everyday to customers who make their own frames, masking systems and so


on.


Since you are a "Distinguished Forum VIP" (we can certainly

tell that by your photo) and are probably doing some type of "extra ordinary" project, please email me direct. We have a lots of special applications fabrics that are not shown on our web site or other literature. One of these special materials may be more appropriate for your application.




BTW, Nice photo! Where can I find the instructions to put a picture on the thread???? I would like to get in on the fun also.




Sincerely,


Don


PS: My email is [email protected]




[This message has been edited by Don Stewart (edited 05-10-2001).]

 

[KBK]

That's the great Mr. Clinton, isn't it?


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goosystems.com


Ken Hotte

[email protected]

 

[MrWigggles]

Rew,


I thought of that but I want something with a little bit of weight to it and I would like to buy less than 1000 Square feet!


Don,


Ummh, I actually already sent you email late Saturday night.


If you want to add a picture under your name,


1. Create a small 55X55 pixel image of yourself.


2. In your profile settings select Avatar.


3. Upload the file which needs to have your name on it.


4. Go back to your profile and select the picture.


-Mr. Wigggles


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The Mothership is now boarding.


[This message has been edited by MrWigggles (edited 05-10-2001).]

 

[Don Stewart]

Damn...I think the stewartfilm.com server is having serious problems.

That is the 4th email this week, that I know of, that did not come through.

Mr Wigggles... please email me using the avs private email service.

I will look into Stewart server in the morning.

Sincerely,

Don

 

[MrWigggles]

Don,


Will do.


Also, anytime I use Private Messages, I have to update my profile to log in. I can't get the normal log in to work correctly. You may or may not have this problem when you try to reply to the message.


-Mr. Wigggles


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The Mothership is now boarding.

 

[ccooper]

Don,


I'm thinking of doing the same thing as Mr. Wiggles. In my case, I already have a screen that I bought from your company using the 1.3 gain (microperf) fabric. The screen is still unassembled, awaiting completion of the theater.


It seems to me that I might be able to build a curved frame and then stretch the fabric over it to replace the flat frame I bought from you. I would be interested in buying a Torus from you, but from what I read, it appears that the Torus has a solid back. Since my speakers are behind the screen, this would not work.


Anyway, do you think the plan above will work? I am also considering buying more fabric from you, since curving the screen makes it possible to install a 2.35:1 aspect ratio with the same height as my current 16:9 screen.

 

[MrWigggles]

Ccooper,


I am going to be doing my screen hopefully next weekend.


I think you might be able to mount your screen on a tile board type material (it's kind of like peg board without the holes). You then could drill enough holes at your speaker locations to facilitate the passage of air.


However, all and all with 1.3 material I would consider just going with a flat screen. It's a heck of a lot easier.


-Mr. Wigggles


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The Mothership is now boarding.

 

[ccooper]

I already have a contractor who is pretty amazing a stretching fabric. He is doing a couple of fabric covers for my theater ceiling. They are compound curves, one convex and one concave, and he claims to be able to install these without any "faceting". I was thinking that he might also be able to do a curved screen.

 

[MrWigggles]

ccooper,


Don warned me not to try adhesion for most of their screens. The backing won't take the adhesion well. If your contractor had that in mind, then it might not be possible.


I am going to be stapling my screen.


-Mr. Wigggles


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The Mothership is now boarding.

 

[KFung]

ccooper,


I agree with Mr. Wiggles, there's no advantage to doing a curved screen with a 1.3 gain surface. Curved screens only provide an advantage on high gain screens because they reduce hotspotting, allowing you to use a higher gain without noticeable reductions in brightness in the corners.


A Torus screen has a solid back, but the actual screen fabric is the same as a regular Stewart screen. It is held in place by a vacuum pump sucking air out of a sealed chamber behind the screen. You're right though, you can't perforate the screen or place speakers behind the screen.


If you do try to adhear your screen to a surface, keep in mind the screen is PVC/vinyl and you don't want to use an adhesive that will react with the plastic. How does your contractor create these compound curves?


Regards,


Kam Fung

 

[REW]

Mr Wiggles/Kam

Since there is a groundswell of interest in curved screens(DIY)how about starting a new topic on this.Especially people like Alan,Wiggles etc who are doing it.Hi gain/silver screen/painting tips/simple curving tips etc.

how about an FAQ to cover this ground.I am still experimenting so members who have been there done that please check in.



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Ron

"Your priorities will be different-its the weighting that counts!"

 

[MrWigggles]

REW,


My current curved screen is rather simple to make. It is tile board painted flat white. Just about anyone could make one in an 4 hours with the right tools.


Applying an actual screen surface on top is the tricky part. And until I have accomplished it I am not the authority on it.


I know how I will do it but I will try to get it done next weekend.


-Mr. Wigggles


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The Mothership is now boarding.

 

[MrWigggles]

ccooper,


I would love to hear how your contractor plans to do it.


As far a your radius question is concerned, there has been a lot of talk about this one on the math side of things, angles and whatever. But it really comes down to a matter of suiting your needs.


There are really only two definites:


1. You don't need more curve than your viewing position.


2. You don't want anything that is less than flat (i.e. convex). This is an obvious one.


You can legitimately argue any curve imbetween.


Other factors to consider:


For the digital projection guys out there, the more curve you use the more your geometry might distort. Also too much curve on a short throw set-up might lead to focus and/or convergence problems. (with my 10HT, my convergence got slightly worse with my curved screen).


Anyway, having a curve radius 2X your seating position sounds great to me. In fact this is exactly what I do.


-Mr. Wigggles


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The Mothership is now boarding.

 

[ccooper]

I know that there are no adhesives required as part of the fabric mounting or stretching process, but I don't yet know exactly how it is done. I think that it depends on using a fabric with a fair amount of stretch, using some clever attachment methods at the edges, and being very careful about how you make the "ribs" that support it. Perhaps next week I can get the contractor to look at the Stewart screen fabric and figure out whether it can be done.


Another question -- what radius are you using for the curve? In my theater, a radius of about twice the distance to the "money seat" would look the best. I think that this is not so radical that it will cause problems for people in the other seats. The proper way to judge is, I suppose, with a ray-tracing program. Maybe there is a 3D graphics application out there that can be employed in this capacity? Short of that, doing some calculations of subtended angles at various seating positions should not be too hard.