[audioguy]

I will be building three (3) 18 inch dual opposed subs. The drivers will be six HST18's from Stereo Integrity. The two front subs will be on a single 20 amps circuit and the single rear sub will also be on a single 20 amp circuit.

I want enough power to not worry about clipping and want to insure there is enough power to get flat response to single digits (will use miniDSP for EQ and time alignment).

Besides the iNuke 6000, what other options are out there? I have been led to believe that one iNuke can drive two of the enclosures. Is that correct? The amps will be in a separate equipment room so fan noise is not a big deal.

Thanks in advance.

 

[More is Better]

3-6x cv5000
3x crest ca18
3x lab gruppen fp14000
3x powersoft k20

 

[chrisslone]

I think with the iNuke 6000 you'd ideally want one per enclosure- bridging the two voicecoils per driver to 4ohm and then having around 1800w rms per side of the iNuke at 4ohms both channels driven (the HST18 is a 1500w RMS driver- in a sealed enclosure you could probably run much more than that and not get into trouble- helpful for EQing to flat.

Looks like you want a minimum of 9000w RMS power for the 3 enclosures but to not hobble yourself I'd shoot for around 12000w at 4ohm. Definitely wise to mull this over. Doing it right is not easy or inexpensive


via Tapatalk

 

[kiwijunglist]

Fp14000 clone from alixpress


http://m.aliexpress.com/item/631532955.html?tracelog=storedetail2mobilesitedetail

 

[rhodesj]

Agree with chrisslone. You could easily go with three NU6000DSPs matched with six HST18 D2 drivers. Do you know how large your boxes will be? You can model them to estimate how much power you'd need to push them to xmax. Depending on your budget, this could be a very workable solution.

Otherwise, you're looking at stepping up to one of the big money amps mentioned above, or a clone.

 

[audioguy]

Agree with chrisslone. You could easily go with three NU6000DSPs matched with six HST18 D2 drivers. Do you know how large your boxes will be? You can model them to estimate how much power you'd need to push them to xmax. Depending on your budget, this could be a very workable solution.

Otherwise, you're looking at stepping up to one of the big money amps mentioned above, or a clone.

The boxes are sealed, dual opposed and the net cubic footage after subtracting the space taken up by the drivers and bracing is about 8 cf. I have discussed this with two different knowledgeable individuals and both said that 8 cf would be just right. I have not modeled this to know what power is necessary to drive them to xmax. But I'm all ears [or eyes].

 

[doublewing11]

Why not 3 Crest 7.5's or 3 Peavey ipr 7500's? One for each cab......

With 6 drivers.........are you really going to hit xmax before you're sitting on first floor?

Three Peaveys can be had for less than 2 grand.....3 grand for Crests.

BTW, skip DSP versions

 

[Mfusick]

No.. keep the DSP. It's worth having.

 

[More is Better]

The boxes are sealed, dual opposed and the net cubic footage after subtracting the space taken up by the drivers and bracing is about 8 cf. I have discussed this with two different knowledgeable individuals and both said that 8 cf would be just right. I have not modeled this to know what power is necessary to drive them to xmax. But I'm all ears [or eyes].

2000W gets 34mm excursion at 5hz in 4cuft net.


If you want the amp to have an additional 3db of headroom before clipping, you would want 4000W/channel.

 

[audioguy]

No.. keep the DSP. It's worth having.

Why if I have external DSP (miniDSP)?

 

[More is Better]

With 6 drivers.........are you really going to hit xmax before you're sitting on first floor?

YES


104db at 5hz and 115db at 10hz isn't even reference level...

 

[Mfusick]

Why if I have external DSP (miniDSP)?

minidsp can be a dirty little pig. I have one. I find the DSP in my amps much better. And you can more easily control independent channels. I set my amps to take one XLR input or one mono channel, so I can run more amps off the same number of outputs.
The DSP in most amps is easier and cleaner and you have one less thing in your signal chain. Less chance of noise or hum, and miniDSP does not like professional grade audio levels. Pro amps are pigs with signal, they want to be fed. I think it's just easier to get a lower noise floor without the miniDSP, and a higher quality amp with it built in. Less digital to analog to digital to analog again conversion nonsense too.

 

[audioguy]

Why not 3 Crest 7.5's or 3 Peavey ipr 7500's? One for each cab......

With 6 drivers.........are you really going to hit xmax before you're sitting on first floor?

Three Peaveys can be had for less than 2 grand.....3 grand for Crests.

BTW, skip DSP versions

Two questions:

(1) Where can you purchase the Peavey (new) for a price that allows me to buy 3 of them for under $2000? The best price I found was $780 each.

(2) Why do I need three? The HST18 is a 4 ohm speaker that wired in parallel with the other one in the enclosure gets us to 2 ohms. This amp, according to the specs I read, puts out 3750 watts per each of its 2 channels. So can I not use one for two of the sub enclosures? I'm sure I must be missing something.

 

[audioguy]

minidsp can be a dirty little pig. I have one. I find the DSP in my amps much better. And you can more easily control independent channels. I set my amps to take one XLR input or one mono channel, so I can run more amps off the same number of outputs.
The DSP in most amps is easier and cleaner and you have one less thing in your signal chain. Less chance of noise or hum, and miniDSP does not like professional grade audio levels. Pro amps are pigs with signal, they want to be fed. I think it's just easier to get a lower noise floor without the miniDSP, and a higher quality amp with it built in. Less digital to analog to digital to analog again conversion nonsense too.

Here is what the miniDSP can do that the amp based ones may not be able to. I can set trim and distance of my two sub groups since the minDSP is talking to both of them. But I will look further into the capabilities of the amp based DSP functionality. And I'm not the least bit worried about another A2D and D2A conversion on frequencies below 100z. If the miniDSP is noiser, that would be a HUGE issue for me. Also, I'm not sure how the miniDSP will even see professional grade audio levels since it will be between the preamp and the amps.

So help me out here please.

 

[Mfusick]

Well there is some complaints on the miniDSP for full range speakers active.. but they seem to do better on subs.

Subs are not too sensitive with that, so I think you'll be ok either way. I run my mini DSP to an older XLS without DSP and run subs and it works well, and I run the second out to an amp plate based sub and that works fine too.

But having used both- I like the amp DSP better. If I had a choice buying an amp, I would pay a tad more for the DSP version.

 

[rhodesj]

I think the unbalanced MiniDSPs may not output more than a .9V signal, and some people have had enough issues getting enough gain. It's somewhat dependent on the amp you're using, and how much signal it needs to drive to maximum output.

The Behringer DSP is pretty easy to use and does work nicely for subs.

 

[audioguy]

I think the unbalanced MiniDSPs may not output more than a .9V signal, and some people have had enough issues getting enough gain. It's somewhat dependent on the amp you're using, and how much signal it needs to drive to maximum output.

The Behringer DSP is pretty easy to use and does work nicely for subs.

I'm using the balanced miniDSP so hopefully that won't be an issue.

 

[Mfusick]

The balanced on a sub I think you will be ok