I'd say replace the sub. Adding a second one will just give you more of that flabby, unrefined sound you don't want. HSU and SVS are solid choices. I have the SVS PB12 NSD and it's a very capable sub for the price. It would be a night and day difference for you.
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Subwoofer bottoms out: upgrade or add a second sub?
My subwoofer, a Cambridge Soundworks Newton P500 (dual 8" drivers, 25Hz, 500 watts (yea, right)), tends to bottom out during really big and/or prolonged explosions. At least I think that's what it's doing -- it handles the initial impact well enough, but then it sounds farty and distorted like the drivers are being overworked.
Dialing back the gain reduces this unpleasant effect, but it also takes a lot of the impact out of less demanding material.
Since replacing my 10-year-old Denon AVR with the newly released AVR-1910, calibrating my sub and running Audyssey, the resulting sound is pretty darn good, but I still get that flabby, distorted subwoofer mess when the going gets tough.
I'm starting to think that a bigger and better sub is the solution. I can either move the Newton P500 into my office and pair it with my surplus B&W LM-1's, which have absolutely no low end (75 Hz is as low as they go) or I can find another spot for it in my home theater set up and add a second, better sub to take some of the load off.
Anybody have any thoughts about how to proceed?
In terms of budget, I'd like to spend under $800 and have been eyeing the Hsu VTF's and the comparably priced SVS subs.
My home theater is located in a 13' x 16' corner of a finished basement with tiled floors. The actual room is more like 26' x 16' if you count the half of the room not used for home theater. Just counting the home theater half of the room, were talking 1500 cubic feet. If you include the non-theater side, it's more like 3,000 cubic feet. According to the HSU website, I have a small or midsize room, depending on how you look at it.
My thought is that the 8" drivers have to work too had to reproduce the big, low end stuff, hence the bottoming out. Secondly, it's never been a very musical sub. While decent for movies, it doesn't lend the desired presence to music.
Any recommendations for a discriminating listener who is not inclined (technically, or otherwise) to start computer graphing his room?
Dialing back the gain reduces this unpleasant effect, but it also takes a lot of the impact out of less demanding material.
Since replacing my 10-year-old Denon AVR with the newly released AVR-1910, calibrating my sub and running Audyssey, the resulting sound is pretty darn good, but I still get that flabby, distorted subwoofer mess when the going gets tough.
I'm starting to think that a bigger and better sub is the solution. I can either move the Newton P500 into my office and pair it with my surplus B&W LM-1's, which have absolutely no low end (75 Hz is as low as they go) or I can find another spot for it in my home theater set up and add a second, better sub to take some of the load off.
Anybody have any thoughts about how to proceed?
In terms of budget, I'd like to spend under $800 and have been eyeing the Hsu VTF's and the comparably priced SVS subs.
My home theater is located in a 13' x 16' corner of a finished basement with tiled floors. The actual room is more like 26' x 16' if you count the half of the room not used for home theater. Just counting the home theater half of the room, were talking 1500 cubic feet. If you include the non-theater side, it's more like 3,000 cubic feet. According to the HSU website, I have a small or midsize room, depending on how you look at it.
My thought is that the 8" drivers have to work too had to reproduce the big, low end stuff, hence the bottoming out. Secondly, it's never been a very musical sub. While decent for movies, it doesn't lend the desired presence to music.
Any recommendations for a discriminating listener who is not inclined (technically, or otherwise) to start computer graphing his room?
1 - 20 of 42 Posts
Upgrading is half the fun in this hobby at least IMO, but in your case it's more then just fun it seems, it's necessary. Buying a sub is like buying a TV. Always get the biggest you can afford. For that price also look at the ED 7s-450 or A5-350
http://www.edesignaudio.com/index.php?cPath=2_41
also the Epik sentinel as well.
http://www.epiksubwoofers.com/portedsentinel.html
Adding a couple of hundreds of bucks can open the door for larger models as well.
Good hunting.
http://www.edesignaudio.com/index.php?cPath=2_41
also the Epik sentinel as well.
http://www.epiksubwoofers.com/portedsentinel.html
Adding a couple of hundreds of bucks can open the door for larger models as well.
Good hunting.
sell it and upgrade...........
Can all these big guys (e.g. 18"/1300 watts) be plugged into a normal household outlet (15 or 20 amp)?
yup, you can run one 1300 watt amp on a 15 or 20 amp circuit without any issues.
Quote:
Originally Posted by RMcR /forum/post/16855996
Can all these big guys (e.g. 18"/1300 watts) be plugged into a normal household outlet (15 or 20 amp)?
yup, you can run one 1300 watt amp on a 15 or 20 amp circuit without any issues.
I've been reading many posts here that says otherwise. Also, the Audioholics review of the A7S-450 states that it trips a 15 amp circuit. With so many people reporting an issue I would not trust the 1300 watt amplifier on anything less than a 20 amp circuit.
Quote:
Originally Posted by mcjasonb /forum/post/16856032
yup, you can run one 1300 watt amp on a 15 or 20 amp circuit without any issues.
I've been reading many posts here that says otherwise. Also, the Audioholics review of the A7S-450 states that it trips a 15 amp circuit. With so many people reporting an issue I would not trust the 1300 watt amplifier on anything less than a 20 amp circuit.
120 volts x 15 amps =1800 watts.
110 volts x 15 amps =1650 watts.
anybody should be getting between 110 and 120 volts at their outlets, so unless something funky is going on when it first fires up then there shouldn't be an issue.
of course it all depends on how much other stuff is running at the same time. if you add 300-400 watts for a big screen TV and whatever wattage a 5.1 AVR and a blu-ray player might take then i guess you could run out of wattage in a hurry.
Quote:
Originally Posted by floridapoolboy /forum/post/16856631
I've been reading many posts here that says otherwise. Also, the Audioholics review of the A7S-450 states that it trips a 15 amp circuit. With so many people reporting an issue I would not trust the 1300 watt amplifier on anything less than a 20 amp circuit.
120 volts x 15 amps =1800 watts.
110 volts x 15 amps =1650 watts.
anybody should be getting between 110 and 120 volts at their outlets, so unless something funky is going on when it first fires up then there shouldn't be an issue.
of course it all depends on how much other stuff is running at the same time. if you add 300-400 watts for a big screen TV and whatever wattage a 5.1 AVR and a blu-ray player might take then i guess you could run out of wattage in a hurry.
Replace. Save up (say $1500) and buy a formidable sub.
Check out the owner reports on the Official eD thread, several people have reported the A7S-450 trips a 15 amp breaker with nothing else on the line. I know, I did the math also. I can't understand why it has such a large turn-on current draw, but apparently many people have experienced it.
Quote:
Originally Posted by mcjasonb /forum/post/16856785
120 volts x 15 amps =1800 watts.
110 volts x 15 amps =1650 watts.
anybody should be getting between 110 and 120 volts at their outlets, so unless something funky is going on when it first fires up then there shouldn't be an issue.
of course it all depends on how much other stuff is running at the same time. if you add 300-400 watts for a big screen TV and whatever wattage a 5.1 AVR and a blu-ray player might take then i guess you could run out of wattage in a hurry.
Check out the owner reports on the Official eD thread, several people have reported the A7S-450 trips a 15 amp breaker with nothing else on the line. I know, I did the math also. I can't understand why it has such a large turn-on current draw, but apparently many people have experienced it.
The normal wall outlet (15amp) can support 1800w. But tripping a circuit isn't about power output of an amp but rather it's power consumption.
BTW the Audioholics review mention that the problem occurred when the amp was switched on before it even put out a single watt. In this day and age I'm not sure why they aren't use a more efficient amp to drive a sub.
Quote:
Originally Posted by floridapoolboy /forum/post/16856631
I've been reading many posts here that says otherwise. Also, the Audioholics review of the A7S-450 states that it trips a 15 amp circuit. With so many people reporting an issue I would not trust the 1300 watt amplifier on anything less than a 20 amp circuit.
The normal wall outlet (15amp) can support 1800w. But tripping a circuit isn't about power output of an amp but rather it's power consumption.
BTW the Audioholics review mention that the problem occurred when the amp was switched on before it even put out a single watt. In this day and age I'm not sure why they aren't use a more efficient amp to drive a sub.
If it happens when the amp is switched on, it may not have anything to do with efficiency. My Rythmik amps produce a brief but significant dimming of lights when they are first plugged in. It's just because of the huge caps they have (which, ironically, could actually help reduce tripping during brief transients). But after that initial charge-up, there are no issues. I have four of them plus a 2000w Buttkicker amp sharing a 240v 25A circuit, with no issues. In fact, the four Rythmik amps are on a 240v surge protector which I believe has a 15A breaker, which has never tripped. Just when first plugging in the amps is the only time there is any significantly noticeable voltage drop in my house.
Quote:
Originally Posted by thehun /forum/post/16858275
BTW the Audioholics review mention that the problem occurred when the amp was switched on before it even put out a single watt. In this day and age I'm not sure why they aren't use a more efficient amp to drive a sub.
If it happens when the amp is switched on, it may not have anything to do with efficiency. My Rythmik amps produce a brief but significant dimming of lights when they are first plugged in. It's just because of the huge caps they have (which, ironically, could actually help reduce tripping during brief transients). But after that initial charge-up, there are no issues. I have four of them plus a 2000w Buttkicker amp sharing a 240v 25A circuit, with no issues. In fact, the four Rythmik amps are on a 240v surge protector which I believe has a 15A breaker, which has never tripped. Just when first plugging in the amps is the only time there is any significantly noticeable voltage drop in my house.
You've all convinced me to upgrade. I'd like to find one that I can have delivered during the week of Aug. 10 when my beloved wife will be away on business (pitiful, I know).
But here's a question. I've gotten the impression from this forum that there's a lot of folks here who judge a subwoofer on its ability to shake the walls and rattle the windows. The one I have now can do that, especially if I place it in a corner and crank up the gain. It's just that it sounds like crap at that level and I don't like to hear my house vibrate.
I want a sub that can realistically reproduce big Bruckheimer explosions and shake the couch, not the whole house. I'm also a big fan of piano and cello/bass. My current sub doesn't do these fine instruments justice, especially when their hitting the low notes.
I'm currently leaning towards the HSU VTF's, probably the VTF 3 Mk3. It's rated for rooms considerably larger than mine. I'm concerned that an oversized sub in a room like mine (13' x 16' x 7') will deliver big explosions but won't be nimble enough for music.
Then again, I think the problem with my current dual 8" sub is that it has to work too hard on explosions and doesn't move enough air to let pianos and cellos (not to mention a good drum solo) speak with their natural authority.
Thoughts?
Quote:
Originally Posted by TnTBigman /forum/post/16856945
Replace. Save up (say $1500) and buy a formidable sub.
You've all convinced me to upgrade. I'd like to find one that I can have delivered during the week of Aug. 10 when my beloved wife will be away on business (pitiful, I know).
But here's a question. I've gotten the impression from this forum that there's a lot of folks here who judge a subwoofer on its ability to shake the walls and rattle the windows. The one I have now can do that, especially if I place it in a corner and crank up the gain. It's just that it sounds like crap at that level and I don't like to hear my house vibrate.
I want a sub that can realistically reproduce big Bruckheimer explosions and shake the couch, not the whole house. I'm also a big fan of piano and cello/bass. My current sub doesn't do these fine instruments justice, especially when their hitting the low notes.
I'm currently leaning towards the HSU VTF's, probably the VTF 3 Mk3. It's rated for rooms considerably larger than mine. I'm concerned that an oversized sub in a room like mine (13' x 16' x 7') will deliver big explosions but won't be nimble enough for music.
Then again, I think the problem with my current dual 8" sub is that it has to work too hard on explosions and doesn't move enough air to let pianos and cellos (not to mention a good drum solo) speak with their natural authority.
Thoughts?
Pathetic... what is with all you guys and your WAF... who gives a crap what's she going to do, not sleep with you?
![]()
! My wife lets me do whatever I want. You guys need cooler wives!
Quote:
Originally Posted by RMcR /forum/post/16861758
You've all convinced me to upgrade. I'd like to find one that I can have delivered during the week of Aug. 10 when my beloved wife will be away on business (pitiful, I know).
Thoughts?
Pathetic... what is with all you guys and your WAF... who gives a crap what's she going to do, not sleep with you?
If I'm going to upgrade my wife, too, then I definitely better wait until she's out of town.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sonies /forum/post/16861965
Pathetic... what is with all you guys and your WAF... who gives a crap what's she going to do, not sleep with you?! My wife lets me do whatever I want. You guys need cooler wives!![]()
If I'm going to upgrade my wife, too, then I definitely better wait until she's out of town.
nice!! lol
Quote:
Originally Posted by RMcR /forum/post/16863258
If I'm going to upgrade my wife, too, then I definitely better wait until she's out of town.
nice!! lol
I used to own the P500 (and P1000). The P500 is a really great sounding sub, and if you have a chance to keep it and put it in your office, I would do that. I really like it in the right situation. I have since moved on to bigger and better subs (SVS/JL Audio). Many subs will shake the room, but when you get the right sub for the room, it almost feels like it is locked into the room and you feel the bass coming up from the foundation. There definitely is a difference.
Quote:
Originally Posted by RMcR /forum/post/16861758
But here's a question. I've gotten the impression from this forum that there's a lot of folks here who judge a subwoofer on its ability to shake the walls and rattle the windows. The one I have now can do that, especially if I place it in a corner and crank up the gain. It's just that it sounds like crap at that level and I don't like to hear my house vibrate.
I used to own the P500 (and P1000). The P500 is a really great sounding sub, and if you have a chance to keep it and put it in your office, I would do that. I really like it in the right situation. I have since moved on to bigger and better subs (SVS/JL Audio). Many subs will shake the room, but when you get the right sub for the room, it almost feels like it is locked into the room and you feel the bass coming up from the foundation. There definitely is a difference.
Now you're talking, *******. What do you use now?
1 - 20 of 42 Posts
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