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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi there,


I'm finishing the basement in my home and am making one area into a home theater. I've got a Denon AVR-1804 reciever to power my audio (6 Boston in-walls), and various other components (modded x-box, ps2, laserdisk, dvd, tivo). Right now I'm in the process of finishing the electrical rough-in, and am planning my cabling for my various components. One of the items that I'm trying to plan on is having a versatile way of placing my subwoofer around the room, so I've thought that I could run my subwoofer cabling in the walls, to wall plugs. This way, I can plug my subwoofer into the wall plug wherever it works best, and it would minimize the amount of cabling zigzagging in the viewing area. I'm planning on 4 wall plugs. The HT 'room' is about 19ft deep by 14ft wide.


My questions are these:


1. Can I run these cables in series, from one outlet to another, with one home-run back to the a/v panel?


2. What type of cabling should I be looking for? Mind that I do have a budget. i.e. I had a $1000 budget for the in-wall speakers, which thanks to Ebay I stayed under.
 

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By running independent lines, you have the option to hook up more than one sub and EQ them separately. Regarding cable type, I would normally recommend balanced XLR and RCA. However, considering your budget and current equipment, you should just go with RCAs. I have two RCA sub drops in both of the rear corners of my room and one at the front near my TV. I have a Velodyne and an M&K subwoofer each in different locations, EQ'ed separately by a BFD. Works well, but tuning multiple subs is very difficult for the novice (me). Good luck!
 

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Make sure you use good shielded cables, and I would try to avoid running the cable in the same conduit as any power lines. You could run decent RG-6 in the walls for not much money. I would probably use home-runs just for maximum flexibility in the future.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks guys for the replies. If I used RG6, wouldn't I have to convert it from that signal to a typical RCA output? I'm a newbie at those types of things, although I did wire my house w/RG6 for my dish install, so I'm familiar with that media, and I can source it all very inexpensively. I could maybe even source XLR cheaply at a large electronics supplier locally. I was originally thinking of just a good shielded cable, as my runs will be about 30-40ft each back to the a/v cabinet.


I think I'm settling on a JBL E250 as my sub right now. I thin it suits my purposes well, and the room will be humble compared to many I've seen on this site.


Thanks! Any other pointers would be more than welcome.
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by javadoc
Thanks guys for the replies. If I used RG6, wouldn't I have to convert it from that signal to a typical RCA output?


I was originally thinking of just a good shielded cable, as my runs will be about 30-40ft each back to the a/v cabinet.
RG6 is a coaxial cable. You can attach any connectors you want to it (F, BNC, RCA).


RG6 is shielded, available with a fire-rating for in-wall installation, and inexpensive. What more could you want?
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thank you Drew. Looks like I'll be buying a spool of RG6 then, since it sound like it'll carry a good (clean, yes?) signal for me.
 

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If you check the page at bluejeancables:
http://www.bluejeanscable.com/store/.../subwoofer.htm


You will see that the wire they are using for their excellent cables is simply good quality 75 ohm shielded coax from Canare & Belden. The subwoofer signal is a simple analog voltage - nothing fancy like HD video or digital audio - so a good quality shielded coax is all that is required.


Personally, I'm not a huge fan of the JBL E250, especially not at the prices that Best Buy sells them. For $450, I would much rather have an SVS PB10-ISD, one of the Velo DPS or DLS, or for a bit more a Hsu VTF-2 mk 2. The eBay price on the E250 of ~$250 shipped is a decent deal - but there's no warranty at that price. There are so many of those eBay JBLs - it makes me wonder why so many of them end up in the gray market.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Thanks for the bluejeans link. Looks like subwoofer cable's not so hard to get right. I'd been looking at SVS subs, but I'm having a hard time convincing myself that I need that much $ in a subwoofer. I've got time and I'm not buying a sub till the end of my project, so maybe I'll find some wiggle room in my budget.
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by javadoc
Thanks for the bluejeans link. Looks like subwoofer cable's not so hard to get right. I'd been looking at SVS subs, but I'm having a hard time convincing myself that I need that much $ in a subwoofer. I've got time and I'm not buying a sub till the end of my project, so maybe I'll find some wiggle room in my budget.
jav, it's best to get something great than just good and spend a little more and get a grin from ear to ear.
The SVS PB-10 is the best bang for the money. When compared to the cheaper brands, you have to spend2 to 3 times more to get the performance of the SVS!



Make sense, no?
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
It definitely makes sense. What kills me is that shipping is $200!
 

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Javadoc,
Quote:
I think I'm settling on a JBL E250 as my sub right now. I thin it suits my purposes well, and the room will be humble compared to many I've seen on this site.
Billybob is right – if you can get the JBL at a steep discount, fine. But it isn’t worth the $400+ list price. I did a review of it earlier this year and I really couldn’t find much good to say about it – see the link in my signature.


The only hiccup I can see in your idea is the plan to daisy-chain the cabling from one outlet to the next. Obviously, if you end up using the second or further outlet, you’ll have to make connections at all the previous outlets. That won’t be hard – you can use a coupler inside the box.


A suggestion there, since each outlet (except the last one) will have two cables in it, you might want to somehow tag or mark the one that would be carrying the incoming signal.


RG-59 coaxial will also work fine for this, and it’s generally easier to work with than RG-6 because it’s thinner and the center conductor is not as stiff. If you can get some for less than the RG-6, no reason not to use it.


Regards,

Wayne A. Pflughaupt
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Thanks for the input. I am just going to home run each connection to my AV panel, and label them such as 'Sub1', 'Sub2' etc. This is simple enough, as I can run them through the ceiling joists and not worry about being in close proximity with the electrical cable running around the room for electrical outlets and wall sconces.


Now to decide where to put my money for a sub! For the money, Velodyne, SVS, Boston, etc. Hard to decide, but I have oodles of time, since I don't think I'll be finished until November with all of the construction.
 
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