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Discussion Starter #1
Hello Everyone,
I have been wanting to upgrade my subwoofer but things are a but complicated as the country I live in has very limited options and that too at extremely high prices due to high import duty and lack of competition. To give you guys a general idea I will list down approximate prices of a few products from different suppliers in dollars.

1- SVS PB 2000 PRO ($ 1900).
2- SVS PB 1000 ($ 850).
3- Klipsch SPL 120 ($ 917).
4- Klipsch SPL 150 ($ 1474).
5- Polk HTS 12 ($ 1179).
6- Polk DSW PRO 660 ($ 1343).
Other options include KEF, REL, Monitor Audio but I am not aware of their prices.

I personally own a Yamaha RX- V685 AVR which is paired with Polk Audio Tsx 330T(Fronts), 150 C (Centre) and 220B Surrounds, 2 Harmon/Kardon HTKS speakers for Back Surrounds and a Polk Audio PSW 125 Subwoofer
(12-inch 150 watts RMS), essentially a 7.1 system. My theater area is setup in the 2/3rd portion of my basement which has the dimensions of 23 ft (L) by 19 ft (W) and 9 ft (H), just like a rectangle but laying on it's side. My couch is placed roughly about 11-12 feet away from my Samsung 65" LEDTV/Projector Screen (135" 1.1 Gain Matt White Motorized Screen). The Polk Sub is placed roughly 3-4 feet away from my main listening position
and that too in the center (i did the subwoofer crawl but was not able to deduce a desirable spot so chose to place in the center).I also did the Yamaha YPAO Room Correction but quite frankly it is horrible and dials everything
extremely low so I keep the speaker volumes at my main desirable levels ( LCR at a full + 10).My room is NOT acoustically treated as of now, but I have gathered the raw materials for it to build the panels sometime in the upcoming months.
The bass is weak, underwhelming, bloated/boomy at times, not deep and clean and certainly does not pressurize my room. My 2nd major concern is to solve "wall shaking", even with this existing Polk sub my family members living above experience the "wall-shaking" in their rooms above and ask me to turn down the volume which pisses me off! Now if I upgrade to a better sub I fear the "wall shaking" will be more pronounced. So I have to kill two birds with one stone i.e. get a good sub in my budget and minimize/reduce wall-shaking/rumbling. The SVS PB 2000 is simply out of my league, Polk DSW Pro 660 and Klipsch SPL 150 also are "difficult" targets to achieve but "might" consider them in the near future if I can gather funds for them. So basically i am left with other options mentioned in the list above that can be considered.
What if I get one the subs (e.g. Klipsch SPL-120 or Polk HTS 12 or SVS PB1000 (if it's still available) and pair it with my existing Polk sub making it a dual-sub configuration?

Any help/guidance/suggestions will be greatly appreciated.

Thanks
 

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I would take the SVS over any of those options.
You will want to end up with 2-4 SVS subs at some point so wouldn't get one that is going off market unless you can afford two up front.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I would take the SVS over any of those options.
You will want to end up with 2-4 SVS subs at some point so wouldn't get one that is going off market unless you can afford two up front.
As mentioned above SVS is extremely expensive in my country. The max I might be able to stretch would getting a single PB-1000 for now. But then again considering my room size a single PB-1000 won't cut it. Ideally not even two. SVS suggests atleast 2 PB-2000s for a room of my size. But I do have the luxury of such a budget.
 

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As mentioned above SVS is extremely expensive in my country. The max I might be able to stretch would getting a single PB-1000 for now. But then again considering my room size a single PB-1000 won't cut it. Ideally not even two. SVS suggests atleast 2 PB-2000s for a room of my size. But I do have the luxury of such a budget.
But they are the cheapest of your options above. One pb1000 would blow your current sub out of the water.
 

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Are there any decent subs made in your country?
Might be 2 or more local cheaper ones will be better for you overall.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
 

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Have you considered a diy solution if you can get the raw materials ? Import costs maybe lower buying just component? Options such as diysoundgroup , or PartsExpress have the components. You’d have to source Flat stock plywood/MDF. Of course finishing would be required.

As far as rumble in other rooms, you’d have to add mass , dampening , isolation and absorption to prevent sounds traveling outside the room. This usually entails rebuilding the room to add those building materials to your design for the desired quietness in other rooms. Expensive endeavor , none the less.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Have you considered a diy solution if you can get the raw materials ? Import costs maybe lower buying just component? Options such as diysoundgroup , or PartsExpress have the components. You’d have to source Flat stock plywood/MDF. Of course finishing would be required.

As far as rumble in other rooms, you’d have to add mass , dampening , isolation and absorption to prevent sounds traveling outside the room. This usually entails rebuilding the room to add those building materials to your design for the desired quietness in other rooms. Expensive endeavor , none the less.
Can you elaborate DIY solution for building what? Rebuilding the entire room that too with such dimensions is not a possibility.
 

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Your space is almost 4,000 cu.ft. and on concrete. IMO, you'll need a couple of powerful subs (or so) to pressurize that space...and if you're successfully pressurizing that space, the folks upstairs are inevitably going to enjoy some part of it.

Better placement of the sub(s) should reduce (and may resolve) the bloating / boominess.

You can try placing your PSW125 nearfield and pairing it with a better sub but it may come up short, mostly because of its poor extension: The specs say it has an "Overall Freq. Response" of 30-225Hz but that isn't with a +/-3dB variance - it's usually something like +3/-6dB or +3/-10dB.

Personally, I'd stretch the budget and get a PB-2000 Pro. It's powerful and tuneable (can be run ported or sealed) and has built-in EQ flexibility.

Pair the PSW125 with it. If the combo works, great; if not, sell the Polk and you're left with one really good sub.
 

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Can you elaborate DIY solution for building what? Rebuilding the entire room that too with such dimensions is not a possibility.
This is DIY, build something like these. Save tons of money, put in little effort and have far more power than you probably deserve.

Twin Odin Sonotube Subwoofer build
 

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Here is an example of how to do that sort of project.

Back some 5 or 6 years ago, a guy in Belize (country in central Amercia) had to get some pro sound speakers and they cost three times higher than typical due to import taxes etc. Belize is a country that is 80% covered in forests and exports fine wood products. It also has weird tax structures for importing things and very high shipping costs.

It was $500 for a basic pair of speakers, $500 import tax and $500 shipping in Belize. The pro sound forum countered with "How much import tax is there for spare parts and not a finished product?" 50% import tax. So,. they designed the guy a speaker that worked better than the finished product for his specific use with a parts cost of $250 + 50% import tax + $50 shipping each. $425 each shipped. In Belize, they have plenty of wood materials, skilled carpenters everywhere and the speaker was built at a total cost of $500 each or $1,500 for three of them (it was set up as an LCR type PA system for the spoken word) Since it was custom made, it alowed incredible quality of finish and it was installed in the building so you could not see it.

For subs, he had the forum design boxes to be used with Selenium drivers (made in Brazil) that had a much lower import tax and it cut the price way down while improving sound quality to match his specific location.

In your case, I would find what brands are available in your location for speaker drivers, amplifiers and pro amps with DSP processing. Consumer stuff tends to be highly taxed but pro gear might be more reasonable because it is an industrial use. Check the tax rates, import taxes and competition on the pro gear side--you might be surprised.

No idea about the cost of wood products in your country or how much it costs to have a box with a port in it built. It might be very reasonable as it is just a box, not exotic furniture so might be your best option. Something to look into, that depends on local vs imported wood products, the tax rate/import/shipping etc. to your location.

Think of it this way, if you purchase a ready made subwoofer--you are paying import taxes on a box, shipping fees on a box, packaging for that box and the lower demand for the bigger boxes drive the costs up. Get rid of the box! Now you have a driver in a much smaller cardboard box, much lighter in weight to reduce shipping costs and most likely a much larger assortment to choose from.

The most common audio hobby that builds subwoofer boxes are in car audio. Hundreds of thousands of them are built each year to fit in many different types of cars/trucks etc. to a specific size the customer prefers. The age of people that do this are in their teens and 20's for the most part so not hard to do--even an idiot like me can (and did) do just that.

Just an option, no idea what brands/amps etc. are in your area or the cost of wood products but you might be able to get some very good speaker drivers be they consumer, pro sound or automotive type. It also frees you up the ability to build the subwoofer to whatever size fits best in your room even to the point of making it a table to hide the thing. In Belize it was cheaper to make a furniture grade table out of exotic woods than a cheap MDF box shipped in. You shipping/taxes/import duties will vary but you get the idea.

At most, the cost of the drivers in consumer speaker is about 25% of the total cost of the product. As the price goes up with speakers, they become more pleasing to the eye so the cost of the drivers compared to the end cost can drop to 10% or lower. Subwoofers are the easiest thing to build there is, a box with a port (or not if sealed) use a pro amp to have all the crossover filters, high pass, low pass, delays, parametric EQ and dynamic EQ to make whatever you like. Dayton Audio (Parts Express) makes a subwoofer processor that will fit in your hand for under $60 that can also do automatic room correction if you desire.

I feel your pain, when I lived in Italy the cost for JBL pro drivers was insane due to import and shipping fees. We went with RCF which is Italian and built the boxes and it worked well. When in Rome... In closing, look around at your ability to obtain actual speaker drivers in your country be they consumer, automotive or pro sound grade. I've only been to 18 countries but all of them had pro sound gear available as it is an industrial and public address function. Some of those drivers can be used for subwoofers for home theaters/music depending on it's parameters. Nothing worse than spending huge prices to get something then an amp fails with very long lead times to get it repaired/replaced.

At the prices you are paying for the listed subwoofers, I'd go full custom built by master carpenters with a furniture grade finish and use far better sub drivers. All depends on how much time/effort you wish to provide to your hobby. Good luck and you might be surprised what is available if you ask.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Guys I am afraid I lack the necessary skills to build a DIY Sub. Also there aren't any great speaker parts available in my country. Even if they did that utmost would be a Chinese unbranded type, which I am willing to bet on.
 

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Your space is almost 4,000 cu.ft. and on concrete. IMO, you'll need a couple of powerful subs (or so) to pressurize that space...and if you're successfully pressurizing that space, the folks upstairs are inevitably going to enjoy some part of it.

Better placement of the sub(s) should reduce (and may resolve) the bloating / boominess.

You can try placing your PSW125 nearfield and pairing it with a better sub but it may come up short, mostly because of its poor extension: The specs say it has an "Overall Freq. Response" of 30-225Hz but that isn't with a +/-3dB variance - it's usually something like +3/-6dB or +3/-10dB.

Personally, I'd stretch the budget and get a PB-2000 Pro. It's powerful and tuneable (can be run ported or sealed) and has built-in EQ flexibility.

Pair the PSW125 with it. If the combo works, great; if not, sell the Polk and you're left with one really good sub.
Don't you think 2 Subs of different brands may sound odd due to differences in their signature sound?
 

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I made these and they still rock after around 8 years.
750 USD all in including shipping to the EU and import taxes. Mcstyvie's 15" DIY subs
 
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Discussion Starter #16
Your space is almost 4,000 cu.ft. and on concrete. IMO, you'll need a couple of powerful subs (or so) to pressurize that space...and if you're successfully pressurizing that space, the folks upstairs are inevitably going to enjoy some part of it.

Better placement of the sub(s) should reduce (and may resolve) the bloating / boominess.

You can try placing your PSW125 nearfield and pairing it with a better sub but it may come up short, mostly because of its poor extension: The specs say it has an "Overall Freq. Response" of 30-225Hz but that isn't with a +/-3dB variance - it's usually something like +3/-6dB or +3/-10dB.

Personally, I'd stretch the budget and get a PB-2000 Pro. It's powerful and tuneable (can be run ported or sealed) and has built-in EQ flexibility.

Pair the PSW125 with it. If the combo works, great; if not, sell the Polk and you're left with one really good sub.
Have you checked Klipsch SPL-150? That is something I might consider something down the road if I were to stretch my budget ($1500 vs $1900 PB2000 Pro). Do you think a single SPL - 150 would be enough for my area (4000 cubic foot).
 

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You could also take a look at XTZ, based out of Europe and great options.
12.17 would be best for that room, but the 10.17 might be more budget conscious and you only give up a small amount of bass extension and ultimate output level (which you can't use anyway due to neighbors). Place it nearfield (as a side table or just behind the couch), for greatest impact at the lowest gain setting.

Sell the Polk and add the proceeds to the sub fund.
 

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Don't you think 2 Subs of different brands may sound odd due to differences in their signature sound?
Different brands aren't necessarily an issue if the two subs are close in overall frequency response and of the same design. Avoid pairing a sealed with a ported. As an example, integrating a 12" with a 15", while not impossible, can be challenging. If mismatched (say one has extension down to 18Hz and the other 30Hz), what you tend to end up with is a peak in the response at the frequencies where both subs hit their full output gain, like 50Hz on up. Makes it very difficult to get a flat response across the combined sub frequency range.
 
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