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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I've been trying to figure out a subwoofer solution for my home theater room. I'd like to stay around $200.


Some poeple have suggested that at that price point I should just go ahead and go the commercial route. Others have insisted that there are ways of doing DIY that will still be far superior:


"there are three dimensions across which you can optimize; power (efficiency) - size - depth; power is usually the one that comes at a price, so for the sake of argument, let's substitute price for power."


As I understand it, the suggestion was that if I'm willing to build an enormous subwoofer, then I can do it cheaply.


Any thoughts on this or other strategies to get an expensive sub project?
 

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I took a leap of faith a couple of years ago and bought a subwoofer sound unheard. I have not regretted my decision one day. Not one. That sub is HSU. I see that it's a forum sponsor here. Click on the link at the top of the page and check out the subs in your price range. I have the STF-2 and it's enough for medium sized living room. It is room shakingly powerful, and has very very little distortion. (very)


Years later, my wife still looks at me during some movies and shakes her head saying "a stampede just drove through our living room". Grinning from ear to ear I say..."I know".


Their warranty, and return policy are right there to read.


IMHO, for the money, you won't find a better deal.


My 2 cents.
 

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Quote:
As I understand it, the suggestion was that if I'm willing to build an enormous subwoofer, then I can do it cheaply.

Correct. There's no replacement for displacement. You'll find there's generally not much price difference between 10, 12, and 15 inch subs of the same line. Presuming you want lots of bass go for a 15 inch sub in a slot ported box with a good 200 watts or and you'll be away laughing.
 

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Given the budget, a large driver with high efficiency is the way to go and at your price point, the Dayton DVC 15" sub is the right choice. At $149, it leaves $50 for amplification and that's doable with one of the Surplus Foster amps from the NHT clearance center via Jack Hidley. Click on the link below and scroll down to the amp....i think it's still $32 plus shipping and does 115watts into 4ohms. Now on to what to do with the 115 watts.

...that

For near 108db output to 30hz, you'll need to build a box with a net volume of 6.5 cubic feet and that's quite reasonable, think 24" cube with standard 3/4" material/double wall baffle and bracing. For the sake of sound quality, offset the dimensions so that no two are equal and then offset the driver from center in the baffle a bit. Next install a single 4" port at 4 1/4" long. Line the entire interior with a cheap foam matress pad from Target or Wallmart and you're done. That's a pretty decent performer for $200 that can't be touched by a commercial sub at that price point.


There's some affordable Pro 15" sub drivers that fit your budget as well that have pretty high efficiency meaning they don't need much power to get loud. But to reach HT depths, they need a pretty big box. If you have no problems with a 10cuft enclosure, that's the way to go. The Peavey Lowrider 15" comes to mind. With the same 115w amp, that driver will do 112db in 10cuft for about $230 amp and driver. Hope this helps.
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by Raker13 /forum/post/16854086


I took a leap of faith a couple of years ago and bought a subwoofer sound unheard. I have not regretted my decision one day. Not one. That sub is HSU. I see that it's a forum sponsor here. Click on the link at the top of the page and check out the subs in your price range. I have the STF-2 and it's enough for medium sized living room. It is room shakingly powerful, and has very very little distortion. (very)


Years later, my wife still looks at me during some movies and shakes her head saying "a stampede just drove through our living room". Grinning from ear to ear I say..."I know".


Their warranty, and return policy are right there to read.


IMHO, for the money, you won't find a better deal.


My 2 cents.

I too have heard nothing but good things about the Hsu subs, as well. But the STF-2 runs $349 + $33 shipping, a fair bit outside his price point.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·

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Originally Posted by mayhem13 /forum/post/16854254


Given the budget, a large driver with high efficiency is the way to go and at your price point, the Dayton DVC 15" sub is the right choice. At $149, it leaves $50 for amplification and that's doable with one of the Surplus Foster amps from the NHT clearance center via Jack Hidley. Click on the link below and scroll down to the amp....i think it's still $32 plus shipping and does 115watts into 4ohms. Now on to what to do with the 115 watts.

...that

For near 108db output to 30hz, you'll need to build a box with a net volume of 6.5 cubic feet and that's quite reasonable, think 24" cube with standard 3/4" material/double wall baffle and bracing. For the sake of sound quality, offset the dimensions so that no two are equal and then offset the driver from center in the baffle a bit. Next install a single 4" port at 4 1/4" long. Line the entire interior with a cheap foam matress pad from Target or Wallmart and you're done. That's a pretty decent performer for $200 that can't be touched by a commercial sub at that price point.


There's some affordable Pro 15" sub drivers that fit your budget as well that have pretty high efficiency meaning they don't need much power to get loud. But to reach HT depths, they need a pretty big box. If you have no problems with a 10cuft enclosure, that's the way to go. The Peavey Lowrider 15" comes to mind. With the same 115w amp, that driver will do 112db in 10cuft for about $230 amp and driver. Hope this helps.

This sounds like a plan.


I'm curious about this vs. another plan someone suggested. They said to try the dayton 240 watt plate amp and the 10" DVC dayton subwoofer. In other words a much higher watt amp and smaller sub.


I'm pretty novice at this and don't understand what the tradeoffs between those two ways of approaching it would be. Any thoughts or guidance?
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by tentaguasu /forum/post/16860274


This sounds like a plan.


I'm curious about this vs. another plan someone suggested. They said to try the dayton 240 watt plate amp and the 10" DVC dayton subwoofer. In other words a much higher watt amp and smaller sub.


I'm pretty novice at this and don't understand what the tradeoffs between those two ways of approaching it would be. Any thoughts or guidance?

Modeling what mayhem posted in winisd for me shows a huge peak around 32hz with a tuning point of 27hz, increasing the port length to 12" looks better with a 19hz tune.


The 10" Quatro (not DVC) with 240W and this 15" DVC with 110W will both get you about the same output down to 25hz, with the 15" taking the lead down to 19hz. The 15" would be amp limited as it could handle its thermal limited 350W in this design, where as the 10" is being maxed out by the 240W amp. If box size matters that could be another consideration.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by Jay1 /forum/post/16860443


Modeling what mayhem posted in winisd for me shows a huge peak around 32hz with a tuning point of 27hz, increasing the port length to 12" looks better with a 19hz tune.


The 10" Quatro (not DVC) with 240W and this 15" DVC with 110W will both get you about the same output down to 25hz, with the 15" taking the lead down to 19hz. The 15" would be amp limited as it could handle its thermal limited 350W in this design, where as the 10" is being maxed out by the 240W amp. If box size matters that could be another consideration.



Ummm... let me try to restate that in "newbie" and see if I understood you:


Provided I make a slight modification to Mayhem's suggestion, then both setups would achieve roughly the same result, with Mayhem's reaching a bit deeper. Mayhem's design will be limted by the amps power. This sounds preferable to my newbie ears, as the other way around sounds like I'd easily burn up the driver if I wasn't careful.


In summation, Mayhem's design would be preferrable.... right?


If box size doesn't matter (it really doesn't for me) how does that change the calculus?
 

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+1 for mayhem's suggestion.


I picked up a 4-pack of those Foster amps and am more than happy with them. They end up being ~$50 each with shipping. I'm running each of mine to a 6cuft ported box tuned to 17hz with an eD 13Kv.2 D4 (12" driver). THis ends up being an 8 ohm load but each one is still able to push 100dB at the LP for extended periods (peaks up to 105). I'm starting to think these foster amps may be quite comparable to the PE amps rated to more power, I know the 115W and 80W specs are what Jack was actually able to measure out of them...


You don't happen to be anywhere near Minnesota do you? I'm actually building these large ported subs to sell off and recover some of my costs of upgrading, if you're in the area and are interested I could get you setup with something pretty cheap
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by lennon_68 /forum/post/16860716


You don't happen to be anywhere near Minnesota do you? I'm actually building these large ported subs to sell off and recover some of my costs of upgrading, if you're in the area and are interested I could get you setup with something pretty cheap

In fact, I live in Wisconsin.... however, if you're a Vikings fan, then we'll be unable to do business.



Seriously, I'll keep it in mind. I'm interested in the learning experience as well, but once I've attempted my fronts and set up the projector and done a DIY screen, etc. I may have had enough "learning" for a lifetime!
 

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Do they make any sub amps that arnt plate amps?


I want a sub amp i can put in a cabnet and control the hidden subs from the componet rack.
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by BowerR64 /forum/post/16862292


Do they make any sub amps that arnt plate amps?


I want a sub amp i can put in a cabnet and control the hidden subs from the componet rack.

There is a rack verson of the Dayton 1000W plate amp, Part express sells it.


Velodyne makes the SC-1250 that is a rack mountable amp. I have owned both the Dayton 1000 amp measured horrible in this forum and both have a sub sonic filter @ 18Hz. I still have two SC-1250s, great looking, great power, no fan, RCA connections, REMOTE control but the SSF was the only down side.


I do not know of any other non-pro choices out there.
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jay1 /forum/post/16860443


Modeling what mayhem posted in winisd for me shows a huge peak around 32hz with a tuning point of 27hz, increasing the port length to 12" looks better with a 19hz tune.


The 10" Quatro (not DVC) with 240W and this 15" DVC with 110W will both get you about the same output down to 25hz, with the 15" taking the lead down to 19hz. The 15" would be amp limited as it could handle its thermal limited 350W in this design, where as the 10" is being maxed out by the 240W amp. If box size matters that could be another consideration.

The tune is actually 24.5 hz that i simmed in 6.5 cuft. Given the built in HP filter at 29hz of the foster amp, there's simply no need to tune as low as you suggest. The design i posted has the flattest output to the HP rolloff...in other owrds no peak at all. Try Unibox...you'll thank me later!


Attachment 148325
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jay1 /forum/post/16862408


Most people not using a plate amp are using a pro sound amp like the Behringer EP2500 .

I just wanted somthing small say 100 watts a side but with the crossover and stuff in it like the plate amps have.


I thought about using a cheap atcive car crossover with a 12V power pack to run it. Thought ide ask if there were any rack type amps with the crossover and shift switches in them like the plate amps have.
 
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