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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Guys, I'm looking for suggestions for a musical, high SPL capable FLH or TH horn with dimensions of a MAXIMUM of 12.5" x 22.5" x 96".

It needs to dig down to 25hz-35hz.


Doubling up is okay, provided it still fits within the max dimensions mentioned above. Would like to get close to 125 db at the listening position which is 12' away.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by LTD02 /forum/post/20844209


are you going to build it?

You know better than to ask that.


Yes, I'll be building it myself.

Quote:
Originally Posted by LTD02 /forum/post/20844209


is there a budget on the drives?

The budget depends on a few variables. ~$250 if for single driver enclosures. I think given my height restrictions, there won't be much available that exceeds this budget using typical horn drivers.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by maxmercy /forum/post/20845613


Tuba 60 comes close, and it is close to a 25Hz design....but too big in a couple of dims with a single Lab12...

JSS

Yep, my dimensions are absolute max, since they would be fitted between beams. So the Tuba 60 is out.


Quote:
Originally Posted by maxmercy /forum/post/20845613


Or a double set of BigMouthinDC's dual anarchy long horns....

I don't think that would get much past ~117db at the LP? I'm looking for more SPL than I think that's capable of.


Thanks for the suggestions though.



Lot's of builds out there. It's my dims & SPL requirements that are making things tough to find one that works!
 

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Well, then roll your own.....I'm sure lilmike will chime in if it is a tapped horn or front loaded, and I can help with front loaded horns...


Choose a driver....Decent one for high spl is the Titanic series by Dayton....I have played with them in the past, but they have seriously gone up in price...


JSS
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by maxmercy /forum/post/20846809


Well, then roll your own.....I'm sure lilmike will chime in if it is a tapped horn or front loaded, and I can help with front loaded horns...

I was thinking I might have to do that. No big deal. Will just be awhile before I can sit down & focus on it for a few days to learn. Am studying for LPI certification right now.

Quote:
Originally Posted by maxmercy /forum/post/20846809


Choose a driver....Decent one for high spl is the Titanic series by Dayton....I have played with them in the past, but they have seriously gone up in price...

Wow, 18mm x-max. Pretty good for a 10" driver.

Quote:
Impedance 4 ohm

RE 3.3

Le (mH) 3.09

Fs 29.6

Qms 7.34

Qes 0.477

Qts 0.44

Mms (g) 156.1

Cms (mm/N) 0.19

Sd (cm2) 330.1

Vd (cm3) 633.7

Bl (Tm) 14.25

Vas (liters) 28.3

SPL 85 db

RMS (W) 400

X-max 18.7mm
http://www.parts-express.com/pe/show...number=295-414
 

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you might have a look at the kicker driver that lilmike is using in the housewrecker/911 build 10CVX152. it was going for $210 the last time that i checked.


i created a back of the envelope simple single fold tapped horn with about a 28hz corner. the max spl is excursion limited in one area and power limited in another area, but both are around 126 db (2 pi space) with 1000 watts and 17 mm xmax.


it would be 6.5 feet long and use and use the full 12.5 x 22.5.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by LTD02 /forum/post/20847073


you might have a look at the kicker driver that lilmike is using in the housewrecker/911 build 10CVX152. it was going for $210 the last time that i checked.


i created a back of the envelope simple single fold tapped horn with about a 28hz corner. the max spl is excursion limited in one area and power limited in another area, but both are around 126 db (2 pi space) with 1000 watts and 17 mm xmax.


it would be 6.5 feet long and use the full 12.5 x 22.5.


I'd build that in a heartbeat.

 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by LTD02 /forum/post/20847242


which way does the mouth need to fire (out the end, out the 22.5" side, or out the 12.5" side)?

The mouth would need to be firing down from the 22.5" side, like this:


 

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i couldn't find an engineering drawing of the driver, so one concern is if it will be possible to shoe horn it into the cab.


i need to double check all the numbers. i've done some "rounding and eyeballing" things along the process, so i need to make sure that i didn't do too much.


i've also attached a picture of a bracing strategy.



 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
That looks awesome! I'll let you name it of course.

I'll order a driver tonight and see if I can get started on this next weekend!


Thank you, LTD02.


Just to confirm, the 2.03" is measured from center of driver?
 

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before you order the driver, let's try to get some good measurements in order to make sure that it will fit.


"Just to confirm, the 2.03" is measured from center of driver?"


yes.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by LTD02 /forum/post/20847498


before you order the driver, let's try to get some good measurements in order to make sure that it will fit.

I might be confused about what you're looking for?

Quote:
Net Displacement, in³ (cc) 179 (2933.3)

Outer Frame Diameter, in (cm) 15-7/16 (39.2)

Hole Cut-Out Diameter, in (cm) 13-13/16 (35)

Mounting Depth, in (cm) 8-1/2 (21.5)
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
+ 2.03" distance from driver to bottom panel

+ .75" baffle panel thickness

+ 8.5" driver mounting depth

+ .75" top panel thickness

---------------------------


= 12.03"
 

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it's gonna be tight...


the 8.5" depth i'm guessing is for standard front mounting. for rear mounting you have to add the thickness of the mounting plate to determine how far out it will actually stick out.


the pics in lilmike's housewrecker/9-11 build thread show that it is about 0.75", so the back corner of the driver might stick out past the front of the cab by a hair (but since 0.75" wood tends to be less than 0.75" you get the hair back).


also, i went back over the numbers and i don't see any errors.
 
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