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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi all,


I am getting ready for electrical rough-in inspection, and have a few issues:

Outlets are required by code 6 ft from entrance door, and every 12 feet from then on. This is not good, as I don't want ANY outlets on my walls. I want to build them into the riser and stage AFTER the inspections are complete. I also don't want to cut holes in my planned sound-isolated room.


So how does everyone handle outlets? From what I see, here are my options:

1) Cut holes, and use putty pads

2) Use a slim "surface mount" outlet (if there is such a thing... is there?). This would keep my penetrations very small (the width of the romex).

3) If I use some kind of "surface mount" I can build them into 1" thick acoustical panels.


Any suggestions?


Thanks!
 

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Have the electrician leave a tail where your first column will be. Have the sheetrock guy just pull the tail through. caulk the hole with SilenSeal. Have the actual outlet be in the back of your column (facing the rear of the theater).
 

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If your inspector gives you grief on having tails hanging around, pop them in a box leaving big service loops. Get your inspection. Then take out the boxes and put up the drywall as NJ described. Of course this may be illegal, a violation of code, reason for insurance problems etc. You have to decide what risks you are willing to take.


I had some hanging tails for my sconces. He asked what they were for and I told him, he passed the inspection. Inspectors are all different and there are regional differences in aggressiveness of code enforcement.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Great idea! I may have the outlet face the FRONT of the theater (i.e. the screen). This way they will be unseen on the way into the theater (door is at back).


Since I am doing the theater work (columns, riser, etc), the contractor would like to get the permit closed out before then. Unfortunately we cannot get the final electrical inspection until the outlets are boxed and wired.... unfortunately this will take more time than the contractor is willing to wait. Hence, I was hoping for some kind of "surface mount box" to pass final inspection.... then remove the boxes, disconnect each outlet from the attic junction box (each of the outlets are home-runned to a large distribution box in the attic, hence easy disconnect), then push the wire back into the wall and caulk the hole.


Ragarding a few outlet boxes I WILL need (behind screen, wall switch at theater entrance), do they make a thin "surface mount" box to minimize the size of the hole? There will be no columns here.
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by WannaTheater /forum/post/18307258


Great idea! I may have the outlet face the FRONT of the theater (i.e. the screen). This way they will be unseen on the way into the theater (door is at back).


Yes, that's the way to go. My entrance is on the side in front of the first row so my outlets will be hidden from that vantage point.
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by BIGmouthinDC /forum/post/18307198


If your inspector gives you grief...

I guess every inspector is different but I had probably 30 tails in my basement during inspection. He did not question a single one. Every sconce was a tail, all pendant lights (over bar) were tails, every theater high hat was a tail (to use old work high hats), theater step, theater riser outlets, the list goes on and on. Based on my experience tails should be just fine during inspection.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
The other issue is that I would like to run the projector supply cord through the mounting post into an outlet in the attic.... I was told this will not pass... Apparently the outlet must be INSIDE the room (accessible).
 
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