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Still can't get the 5500 to display all 29 of the shading bars? If not, YOU ARE LOOSING SHADOW CONTRAST!


As some have found, the dark and light end bars are not controlled in the service menu. These bars are set using the BRIGHT and CONTRAST controls in the user menu. Here's how to do it.


Set both bright and contrast to 0 in the user menu (MU). Enter the Service Menu (SM). If you've seen the 29 bars, you know how to get here. For those that haven't and wish to optimize their projector, to access the SM press MENU, release, and press and hold RESET until the SM appears.


WRITE DOWN ALL THE VALUES YOU SEE FOR FUTURE REFERENCE! Scroll through the various menus taking note of the values before changing anything. Don't be scared, nothing bytes.


Scroll over to either of the two GAMMA submenus and scroll down to any value (or bright or subbright). Move the cursor to either the red or blue color adjustment using the arrows on the remote. Once on a color value, press MENU SELECT on the remote and the 29 bars will display. The black bars on the end are controlled by the BRIGHT in the UM. Go back to the UM by pressing MENU twice on the remote. If the two black bars were clearly distinguishable, you need to reduce the bright. Conversely, if the two black bars appeared the same, you need to raise the bright. Make a small change to the bright as necessary and then go back to the SM as you did before and look at the black bars again. Go back to the UM and make further change, as necessary. Go back in the SM and look again, etc. (This can get old.) When you can barely tell the two black bars apart, you are at the optimal setting for the bright control.


So now look at the two white bars on the other end. Are they easily distinguishable, or (more likely) now run together as one bright bar? Use the same proceedure you used for the black bars, only this time use the CONTRAST control in the UM. If the bars run together, turn down the contrast. If the bars are clearly distinctive, raise the contrast. Do this until the bars are barely distinguishable. Mine ended up with bright at +11 and contrast at +7. Your mileage may vary.


Now look at video materal on screen. Is it too bright or dark? Don't touch those bright/contrast settings that you've worked so hard for. Go into the SM and scroll down to VID-GAIN in the VID-AD menu. Move over to the "W" value. This control seems to affect the amount of light sent to the LCoS, but DOES NOT AFFECT THE GREYSCALE AND BAR ADJUSTMENTS. The 29 bars are a product of how the LCoS windows "cloud up" thereby restricting the amount of light reflected back to the screen. "W" is the green and overall drive level while "R" and "B" control the red and blue relative to the overall setting. If you raise the W, you can oversaturate your picture giving things a real shine (and loosing picture contrast), but when you go back to the 29 bars, you'll find them unaffected even with the gain at maximum/minimum settings. I found that lowering the "W" by one notch under that as delivered (to 11 from 12, again, your mileage may vary) seemed to also help contrast detail ever so slightly. Perhaps the factory sets them "hot" at the expense of detail. You can also boost/cut the red blue here.


BTW, when you view the 29 bars, take note of the color. Do the bars appear white/grey or are their areas of red and/or blue? If you have color variation across the bars, this can be adjusted. Additionally, the overall color temperature can be adjusted.


In the second GAMMA menu are the subcontrast and subbright menus. These are used to set the overall color tone, much like a bass or treble control for an audio system. The red, green, and blue can be controled independantly here. This is where you would adjust to achieve a 6500K or any desired overall color temperature. Once you've got these set, look again at the bars. Do they show uniform color and brightness across the spectrum? If not, go into the first GAMMA menu and scroll down to the percentage value that best portrays the area that needs adjustment. This menu is like a graphic equalizer for your audio system only controlling color rather than sound across the spectrum. To see what areas are affected by which %, increase a color drastically until it is readily appearant where its effect will be on the scale. Adjust the colors and/or brightness (multiple colors) as necessary trying to keep a constant "tone" across the bands.


Because the 5500 appears to "leak" blue light, a certain amount of blue finds its way into all colors. Because the leakage is a low intensity constant, its greatest manifestation is at reduced light values (lower % values) where it makes up a greater portion of the whole. You may find that you get a better color balance across the bands by reducing blue at the lower light settings to partially compensate for excess blue leakage. I find that while this helps the overall grey values and picture quality, pure reds will still be effected. A filter (or redesign) may be (is?) required to get rid of the excess blue, but would require major changes in the GAMMA menus as well as the VID-GAIN, but then, you know how to do this now, don't you?
 

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Thanks for the info toddalin.

I see that you have also posted this in the 5k+ forum so I will close this one.


Shawn
 
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