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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi guys,


What do you prefer, Table or Ceiling ?

Ceiling has it's obvious advantages, getting that big piece of equipment off the floor. But what do you guys use and has anyone made a table for a BD808 ?

Just read the post with the dropped PJ and then I came to think of a table mount instead :D


Were can I find information about were the bottom of the picture will be, relative to the hight/position of the PJ (BD808).


Thanks

Fredrik
 

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Check out mine, as I have a BD808. :D


I've also seen a nice threaded pipe table, parts available precut from Home Depot, just thread together.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Interesting, I have a quite deep/long room so I'll probably build a table and put the PJ inside the table (well under it).

Unless I go for a ceiling mount :D
 

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Oh, you meant a real table, like one you'd want your friends to see when they come over to check out your new home theater (and drool).


:D


Some people have done them for the other projectors, we had pics of one on here maybe a week or two back that was pretty awesome in design. Good craftsmanship went into it. Just have to make your table about 3-3'5 feet long to hold that Barco beast...
 

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I would recommend ceiling mounting it if at all possible.


I had my 808 on the floor for a while but after putting it on the ceiling I wouldn't go back.


It is much less obtrusive on the ceiling and you also get your floorspace back which allows you to have more of your friends over to show it off



Here's a picture of my setup



Mark
 

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I have a floor mount now because im in a rental house with vaulted ceilings but I will absolutley ceiling mount when we move in a few months. I thought about building a table and I think you can do some nice designs but the part that drives me nuts is when my dogs walk in front of it during a movie. AT least twice in every movie never fails :)
 

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Mark's right, I'd ceiling mount if I owned the place and knew I'd be staying in it for at least another couple of years... it really takes up the floor space.
 

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IMHO, table mount is not a viable solution (been there, done that). All common CRT projectors have a throw that puts them in the same place as the front row center seat. Spending piles of money on a home theater and then having to choose between sitting back too far to have a sense of cinematic impact and off-center seating is silly.


If you don't own the place, small drywall holes are easily patched or not - when I rented, I lived places with plant hanger holes in the ceiling, an didn't ding the tenants of the place I bought for the same thing.


And if you didn't want to deal with holes, building a truss structure to support the projector with wood or metal would not be difficult.
 

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Ceiling mounting is the way to go IMO.


I had a PJ on a coffee table for a year, then I put it up on the ceiling.


- Rick
 

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Quote:
Originally posted by Drew Eckhardt
If you don't own the place, small drywall holes are easily patched or not ... And if you didn't want to deal with holes, building a truss structure to support the projector with wood or metal would not be difficult.
Drew, could you expand on that a bit? I'm planning on ceiling mounting the projector (when I get it; shipping is proving more difficult than expected), and I've got the unistrut, threaded rods, various fasteners, and have looked at several example situations. However, I'm not sure just yet how to put it all together... I'd rather not cut out a large amount of the ceiling (which I just finished painstakingly painting), but mounting 100+ pounds without securely fastening to the joists would seem dangerous. Is there a way to do it safely with just small holes in the ceiling and something like those plant hanger hooks that pop open when they go through? Most of the example photos I've seen start with an unfinished room, which obviously makes attaching to the joists much easier. Access to the joists is possible, albeit difficult, from the attic space above which has finished plank flooring and insulation. I was told one possibility is to take a long drill bit or nail and punch through from above just to the side of a joist, then use that as a visual from below. I haven't tried the stud sensor yet to see how well it works on the ceiling... It would seem I'll need to do some ceiling and/or attic floor deconstruction, and if I can choose one or the other, the attic would be preferable (having not really investigated how structurally important everything is up there).


Dan
 

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Have a look at my page ... I've used Fischer wich is like unistrut!!!


It can hold my brother and me together swinging like monkeys he he


The bolts I used for the celling is called ankernails if you translate it directly from danish ... I'll try to put up a picture of the bolts! ( they can hold 600kg each .. I used 6 x 12mm )


Anyway this is how I did it ... and I live in a 1 ROOM apartment ... anything is possible ;)

http://www.geocities.com/stokke2/hometheater


Feel free to ask :) I have to go now but I can go into details later!


By the way .. my site can't hold much traffic .. I have changed the size of the pictures but!!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Guys,


You have convinced me ;)


Mark,

Is that a fixed size/height ceilingmount or is it adjustable ?


I measured how big the PJ would be and it's a big piece of equipment.

It occured to me that I should check how big it actually is, it's easy to "picture" the size but when you actualy measure it.... well the table thing isn't a realy good option with this PJ ;)


Which ceailing mounts are good for this PJ ?

I checked the Barco webpage and the ceiling mount looked quite easy to setup but it probably cost a bazillion.

So what options do I have ? (I live in an appartment with concrete ceilings)

Are all ceilingmounts (for this size) equiped with pullys or is it a 4 man job ;) ?


Does anyone have a BD808/BG808 manual in pdf format were I can measure how low/high the PJ needs to be, relative to the screen and so forth ?
 

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Hi again


My page is not much use right now because of the traffic on it he he .. so u can tjeck these other threads about celling mount ... I've got all my ideas from here :)

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...light=unistrut

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...t=uni+mounting

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...light=unistrut

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...132#post687103

http://www.genielift.com/ml-series/

I used the first 1 u can see on the site to lift my PJ ( barco 800 )


Get all the manuals here!
http://beamer.xs4all.nl/Documents.htm


Hope this helps U ;)
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Thanks I'll check them out.
 

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Quote:
Originally posted by dkap
Is there a way to do it safely with just small holes in the ceiling and something like those plant hanger hooks that pop open when they go through?
Small holes - yes. Plant hangers - no. Sheet rock is just a bit stronger than cardboard boxes.


Use your stud finder to locate approximately where each edge is on the stud and measure out halfway between them to find the center.


Drill pilot holes to suit your lag bolts. Pilot hole diameter and lag bolt length requirements are well-known problems that your favorite local hardware store should be able to answer.


The resulting 3/8" holes qualify as "small". I never patched anything that big with white toothpaste, although spackle definately works.

Quote:
Most of the example photos I've seen start with an unfinished room, which obviously makes attaching to the joists much easier



Once you figure out how to get the projector up without major surgery you realize that you want


1. Conduit (2") big enough pull video cable with connectors.


2. A hushbox vented elsewhere.


Neither is real practical without some deconstruction :)
 

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Henrik,


I had previously read (and bookmarked) the first of those 4 threads, but I hadn't seen the others. 92132 and 94420 are fantastic! The pictures are the best I've seen and answer a number of specific questions I hadn't yet gotten around to asking, such as how to secure the rods within the unistrut (I've got the channel cone nut thingies already, but there isn't much room for a lock nut on top of them inside the low profile unistrut I chose; a lock nut/plate below the strut is the key).


I wouldn't have guessed a 3/8" lag bolt in the joist is considered that secure, but it sounds like the consensus is that it will be just fine. Just gotta hit those joists dead center... Is 4" the proper length for the lag bolts, or is 4.5" or so best as indicated in one of the posts?

Quote:
Once you figure out how to get the projector up without major surgery you realize that you want


1. Conduit (2") big enough pull video cable with connectors.


2. A hushbox vented elsewhere.
Ah yes, both items I have considered but have put off for the time being. I plan to get an outlet installed in the ceiling at the back of the projector and hard wire it to an unused bay in the electrical panel (the theater room is adjacent to the garage with a shared open attic, so that makes for easy access). I had planned to drop the video cables through the ceiling as well, but the projector will probably end up being close enough to the equipment rack in the back of the room that I can just run a cable organize along the ceiling, painted the same flat grey as the ceiling itself. Probably only an 8' run or so, which won't be very noticeable and has the added advantage of keeping the video cables away from the audio/power cables that will be run up into the ceiling to the front of the room. A hushbox is a wait and see [if it's necessary] project... :)


Thanks!

Dan
 
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