[david]

My select button stopped working, so I was going to pull the remote apart and fix it with a window defogger kit (as suggested in the past). I did a quick check of the faq, and under the question of "If I change the batteries on my remote, will I lose all my codes?" the answer is "No. Just be careful not to press a key on the remote while the batteries are out."


What? I have to pull the batteries out to split the remote, and given the tight fit of the thing, how on earth am I going to make sure I don't press any buttons? How important is this? I've got it fairly customized with swapped buttons and volume punch throughs and all that, and would be really bummed if I had to do all that again...


Any advice on how to safely split the remote without touching any buttons? Are there any buttons in particular to avoid?


thanks,

david.

 

[Mikeyboy]

Take some comfort in the fact I can take the batteries out of my showstopper remote, press every button, put batteries back in and it still works all my devices.

 

[The Robman]

Quote:

Originally posted by Mikeyboy Take some comfort in the fact I can take the batteries out of my showstopper remote, press every button, put batteries back in and it still works all my devices.

That's not good advice Mikey. There are at least two different versions of the remote out there, while the newer remotes may not be affected by the reset problem, the vast majority of them are. Pressing certain buttons while the batteries are out will cause these remotes to do a 981-style reset, which will not only wipe out the Replay code but also all the custom programming you may have done.


The best advice I can give you here is to build a JP1 cable first, then you can back up your current configuration. That way, even if you do cause a reset, you can very easily get the remote right back to where it is now.

 

[Mikeyboy]

Well, I didn't say take a great amount of comfort.


Good thing we got Rob to set things straight!

 

[The Robman]

Quote:

Originally posted by Mikeyboy Well, I didn't say take a great amount of comfort.

LOL! That's true. It's those subtle differences that get ya.

 

[Ricardo]

i have two model of remotes,


3402W01 and 3402B02 Rev 03


i don't know if is there more out there, but i can tell that 3402W01 model is the one that looses all the programing with a reset command


also i want to add that the JP1 files are different for each one and in my experience you should not mix them

 

[KenL]

Ricardo did you post both rdf? Cause I have one of each too. But I don't use them for anything but testing otherwise yes Rob I would send them to you. Or do you just mean individual config .txt files not the .rdf? I would almost swear I've reloaded them indiscriminantly, what could be the downside of this if the non volatile memory is different? Yes I should ask this over there but I don't see Ricardo offhand.


Edit: I think I answered myself. RDF is fine and since the only thing I'm adding in is "hacked" replay protocols to control multiple units, it doesn't matter. But I do have another question for Ricardo about getting dish blaster codes into the Replay OS since I think he was actually in there hex editing phone #'s?

 

[The Robman]

Quote:

Originally posted by Ricardo i don't know if is there more out there, but i can tell that 3402W01 model is the one that looses all the programing with a reset command

Actually, they'll both lose their programming if you do a RESET (ie, command 981), what you mean is that it will lose it's programming if you start pressing buttons while the batteries are out. (People get confused with this, I'm just trying to clarify).

Quote:

Originally posted by Ricardo also i want to add that the JP1 files are different for each one and in my experience you should not mix them

Why would you say that? It's true that the codes added to the various remotes does differ, but the format should be exactly the same.


For example, the original RTV2020 remotes shipped with just one added code, the one for Replay. The Showstopper remotes shipped with quite a few added codes, including the Panasonic Replay code. This is because they tweeked the Panasonic protocol, so they had to re-add all the main Panasonic TV and VCR codes so that they would use the new protocol. The RTV3060 remote had all the same codes added as the Showstopper remote, except that they dropped the Panasonic version of the Replay code and used the Replay version.


Either way, you should totally be able to swap the memory dump from one remote to another, and as both the Replay brand and Panasonic brands respond to each others signals, you won't notice the difference.


Judging from the picture of the 4000 remote that comes up on the pause ads, I'm guessing that this is a Panasonic remote, so the codes are most likely built into the remote, not added after the fact, so there shouldn't be an issue with lost codes with this remote.

 

[jbarr]

Quote:

Originally posted by The Robman The best advice I can give you here is to build a JP1 cable first, then you can back up your current configuration. That way, even if you do cause a reset, you can very easily get the remote right back to where it is now.

Robman, Your JP1 site shows the cable with a DB25 connector. Questions:


1. Do you sell it with a DB9 connector?

2. Will it work using a DB25 to DB9 adapter?


Thanks!!!

 

[BaysideBas]

If I'm not mistaken, the JP1 connects via the parallel port (DB25 connector). Why would you want a DB9? Surely you don't intend to connect it to a serial port!

 

[The Robman]

Jim, see what BaySide said. The JP1 cable connects to your printer port, so DB25 is the way to go.