AVS Forum banner

1 - 20 of 24 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
13 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Hi all. I apologize if this question is not okay to place in this subforum, please let me know where is a better spot in that case.

I recently bought a pair of XT8F speakers, but sadly the moving company has dropped one the speakers judging by the damage at the corner. It only produces some high notes, the lows are completely gone.

I’m hoping for just a loose connector. I’ve taken off the backplate, the cables connected to it seem attached fine.

However, I’m stuck at this point. The drivers don’t come off after unscrewing, I’m guessing they are glued in place. And I don’t see where I can further open the cabinet. There’s a downwards facing port but it’s too small to reach or see anything through.
I think the whole cabinet is either glued together or there are screws hidden under the veneer but I have no clue where.

Does anyone know how I can best proceed? Your expert advice is much appreciated!

I’ve attached some photos of the corner damage, backplate and driver attachments just in case.

Many thanks!
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,956 Posts
Can you see inside through the backplate hole if the wires are attached to both speakers inside the cabinet? Can you see the crossover inside the cabinet? Wires could have broke loose from either spot. Or a solder joint might have broke in the crossover. The woofer is probably just really stuck to the cabinet. Those are not usually glued in if they have screws. Can be very hard to pry it free without doing any damage. But since you already have a banged up corner, another mark or two isn’t the end of the world.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,601 Posts
I'm assuming that you bought the speakers second-hand?
Was there any insurance on the shipment?
Is there any way for the moving company to fix their error?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,956 Posts
Based on the pics I found with google, you are likely going to have to remove one of the drivers to get a look inside. Either one would work. I’d take all the screws out and then try to get something inside one of the screw holes and grab the frame of the speaker and pull. Might have to work your way around each screw hole to break it free.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,572 Posts
Can you reach in and push the woofer out from the back? Not sure hole is big enough, or maybe use a pry bar through the back hole? Prob just stuck to the gasket

Oh yeah moving is the worst. Unless you pay extra the insurance is by the pound and then after that there’s a deductible. You’re your own best insurance by packing extra and supervising as best you can. It’s a free for all typically
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
13 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
Thanks for the replies all. I bought them new, I’m trying to get in touch with Tannoy too to get their advice. Yes I did insure them and after quite some arguing I’m getting part of the purchase price back, after a hefty deductible.. still would be good to fix the speaker, since the other one although banged up still sounds fine. (Worst part is the moving company refused to use the original boxes which I had kept for this purpose.. guess what happened. Ugh!)

The port is too small to put my hand in and a fabric cloth blocks my view. Judging by the cross section I found online (see attached) it will be hard to see/reach anything from down there. The backplate isn’t very large and also placed below the lower divider.

From the replies thus far I guess my best bet is to try and pry the driver from the cabinet? I’m just a bit worried to damage the driver in the process. But lets see!
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,587 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
13 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
Brilliant, I managed to pry loose the lower frequencies driver. I’ve disconnected the driver which gives me a view on the crossover board (?).

The red cable running from the LLF+ mark looks a bit dented (see attached) but I’m not sure how that could happen from a dropped cabinet.

I guess the next step is to do some measurements. I don’t have a spare driver to switch in and test. Can I connect the driver directly to my amplifier without the crossover, to see if the driver is fine? Or is that a terrible idea?
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,956 Posts
You can connect the woofer directly to your amp.

You didn’t happen to find that R2 resistor in the bottom of the cab? Probably wasn’t there to begin with, but worth taking a look.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,572 Posts
You can thread a too-big screw into the holes on the woofer and pull on the screw, I guess depending on the woofer.

Also harbor freight has a $6 meter that’s handy to have around, can test the driver for continuity. I always test speaker runs with the speaker hooked up so I don’t have a short or something dumb.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
13 Posts
Discussion Starter #12
Thanks Samps, using that info I could verify that both drivers and the tweeter are working fine when connected directly to the amp. Next step is to try and pry the crossover from the cabinet. I agree on the R2 resistor but its nowhere to be found!

Vince I will indeed try to multimeter around some of the internals. Should be easy to test the resistance of the internal cables, so when theres a break the resistance is infinite? Something like that. Time to buy a meter and a soldering iron I guess!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
13 Posts
Discussion Starter #13
I managed to get the crossover board out. So where I currently stand:
The HF+ and HF- seem fine.
The other outputs (LF-, LF+, LLF- and LLF+) are not working. I’m not sure where to go from here but tomorrow I’ll buy a multimeter, soldering iron and some wires, and hopefully find faulty wires which I can replace. But that seems kind of unlikely to happen to at least 2 wires simultaneously, so I’m guessing it is likely something else..

Anyone here that can give me some pointers as to what the different components on the crossover board are? As you can probably tell by now I’m a beginner so any pointers are helpful.

The board;
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,572 Posts
Probably more likely that you have a broken solder joint or joints. Look closely at the other side of the board. Google for cold solder joints and/or broken joints to get a better idea what you’re looking for. possibly the two woofer outputs share some of the circuit and that’s what’s damaged, leading to both woofers being out.

Is that 20w resistor cracked? White rectangle right of center.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,956 Posts
The only thing I would buy at this point is a cheap multimeter. Preferably one with a continuity test that has a buzzer.

First check would be hooking everything back up like it’s supposed to be, but with the woofer hanging out of the box with wires attached.

Then place the red wire from the multimeter onto the red terminal on the back of the box. Place the black wire from the multimeter onto the red terminal on the woofer. If it has continuity then you can move on. That will indicate if signal passes through the terminal all the way to the woofer.

Next is to do that same test on the negative terminal to the negative woofer terminal.

This should show you where the connection issue is.

We can backtrack from there through all the crossover connections and possible other failures.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
163 Posts
The moving company should be claiming on THEIR insurance for damaging your goods and should be replacing the pair. I'm not sure why you aren't pursuing that more vigorously. That is why moving companies carry insurance in the first place and it shouldn't be a deductible that you are responsible for.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
13 Posts
Discussion Starter #18
The deductible amount (USD 500) was specified in the insurance before shipping so I would assume I have no legal grounds to overrule the deductible. At least I got them to pay the full value of the speakers (minus deductible) whereas at first they were only willing to pay a small sum for ‘aesthetic damages’.

I bought the multimeter this morning and tested all the cables going in and out of the crossover board for continuity, and they all seem fine. What would be my next step for testing the components on the board? Test all for continuity? Specific tests for resistors/condensators/coils?

Thanks again for all the inputs, its great to get some help with this
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
13 Posts
Discussion Starter #19
I tested all board components for continuity and they all conduct except for C1, which is shrinkwrapped and reads “1.8J 250V M PT”. I tested from the solder as well as directly on the capacitor.

Does this mean this component is broken or is there another test I should do first?
And, if it’s broken, how do I go about replacing it? Should the replacement be exactly similar or should it just have the same specs?
 
1 - 20 of 24 Posts
Top