[2panther]

I've installed dricore in my basement and according to their installation instructions they suggest using tapcons 3" from the perimeter edge every 4' and one in the center of the room.


I drilled all the holes with a hammer drill I borrowed and then like an idiot used a power drill to zip the tapcons in. Only about a 1/4th of the ones I screwed in are secure, the others spin in the hole so I guess I put them in too fast and they stripped the holes out?


What are my options to remedy this? I though about putting some construction adhesive in the hole first and then screwing the tapcon back in and hopefully that would hold? I used the 1/4" by 1 3/4" tapcons if that matters. I won't have access to that hammer drill again and don't really want to drill all the holes again, is there another option?


Thanks!

 

[Tedd]

Next diameter up Tapcon and redrill. You won't need the hammer drill.


Did you use the hammer function to drive home the Tapcons? I'd pull a Tapcon and check the threads.


The construction adhesive could work, but what will be pulling the floor down to the concrete while the glue dries?

 

[tlogan6797]

I'm getting close to doing the same thing, so I'm interested inth answers that show up.


I wonder are the 1 3/4" screws really long enough? The dricore is 7/8s". That only leaves 3/4" into the concrete.

 

[Tedd]

That might be the issue here. I don't ever recall having a Tapcon strip out.

 

[2panther]

yes I did use the hammer feature of the drill. I was on a roll after drilling all the holes that I just put in the P3 bit and went nuts lol


looking at the Tapcon site I don't see a larger size than what I used. I see longer length but not width. Wouldn't I need a wider screw now if I stripped the hole out since the screw simply spins in place now?

http://www.tapcon.com/TapconConcrete...ableSizes.html


My though on the construction adhesive was that since the flathead (non hex style tapcon) sits flush with the dricore that would hold the dricore down and the glue would hold the tapcon in the hole? maybe thats flawed logic on my part.

 

[2panther]



Quote:
Originally Posted by Tedd /forum/post/20880314


That might be the issue here. I don't ever recall having a Tapcon strip out.

hm, so possibly a longer tapcon is needed for it to really "bite" into the concrete and be secure?

 

[2panther]



Quote:
Originally Posted by tlogan6797 /forum/post/20880279


I'm getting close to doing the same thing, so I'm interested inth answers that show up.


I wonder are the 1 3/4" screws really long enough? The dricore is 7/8s". That only leaves 3/4" into the concrete.

reading more on the tapcon site I found this tidbit


"Tapcon anchors require a minimum embedment of 1" and a maximum embedment of 1-3/4"."


Maybe I just need tapcons that are 1/4" longer?

 

[Edge540]

id go an inch longer than what you already have. if i remember right, the instructions on the box said to use the hammer function to drive the screws in. i always had problems with the screws stripping out until i used the hammer function to install the screws. use a socket on screw head, not screw driver bit. works like a charm

 

[BIGmouthinDC]

There are two styles of Tapcon screws, flat head and Phillips head countersink. Are you trying to seat the Phillips head tapcon screw in the dricore without pre counter-sinking the drill hole? if so the torque required to sink the head into the dense dricore may be digging out the concrete. Try counter sinking the plywood top of the dricore before putting in the tapcon.

 

[Tedd]

I've never used a hammer function to drive Tapcons. My guess is the hammer function and the 3/4" embedment are combining to create the stripping issue. Ever pull a concrete nail out of concrete? You get a divet about 1/2 to 3/4" deep.

 

[chpwaman]

Definitely turn the hammer function off when just drilling. I used tapcons in my basement and I actually hand turned them with a ratchet. Takes a little longer, but I didn't want to torque them to the point of snapping with a drill. Also...I always cleaned my holes out with a shop vac after drilling before driving the tapcon.

 

[White fish]

just making sure you should be using


with 3/16 tapcons use a 5/32 masonary bit

and 1/4 tapcons use a 3/16 masonary bit


and I think you need at least 1" in

 

[2panther]



Quote:
Originally Posted by White fish /forum/post/20880780


just making sure you should be using


with 3/16 tapcons use a 5/32 masonary bit

and 1/4 tapcons use a 3/16 masonary bit


and I think you need at least 1" in

just confirmed the tapcons with the right bit, both have the green label instead of the red. I picked up a longer bit today and I'll check the depth of the existing hole when I get home and drill deeper if I need to. I could always pick up the 2 1/4" tapcons instead of the 1 3/4" and see if I can get that into the hole and secured in the to concrete.


Thoughts?

Quote:
Originally Posted by chpwaman /forum/post/20880772


Definitely turn the hammer function off when just drilling. I used tapcons in my basement and I actually hand turned them with a ratchet. Takes a little longer, but I didn't want to torque them to the point of snapping with a drill. Also...I always cleaned my holes out with a shop vac after drilling before driving the tapcon.

I won't have the hammer drill tonight so I'll just use an old Dewalt corded drill to make the holes deeper and then maybe use my cordless drill to drive the screws in slow.

Quote:
Originally Posted by BIGmouthinDC /forum/post/20880459


There are two styles of Tapcon screws, flat head and Phillips head countersink. Are you trying to seat the Phillips head tapcon screw in the dricore without pre counter-sinking the drill hole? if so the torque required to sink the head into the dense dricore may be digging out the concrete. Try counter sinking the plywood top of the dricore before putting in the tapcon.

The few tapcons that are secure kind of pulled themselves into the dricore and made themselves flush with the surface, I didn't need to countersink those.

 

[advertguy2]

Cleaning the dust out of the hole is another key factor in Tapcon installation.

 

[RPA]

Here's the process I used on my Dricore....this worked on at least 30 screws.....I lost count after my hand, arm and generally my entire right side of my body went numb from the hammer drill!!


1) Drill pilot hole thru Dricore with wood drill bit, vacuum out hole

2) Use countersink bit to create sink for flat head, vacuum out hole

3) Now switch to hammer drill with proper masonry bit

4) Drill into concrete, watch depth, don't remember the measurement, but I ended up marking my drill bit with tape as a stop guage. Make sure you vacuum out the hole!!

5) Now switch back to normal power drill and drive the Tap-con into the concrete. Set the drill to so you don't over-drive the bit into the concrete. If the Tap-con doesn't go all the way in, I used a screwdriver with box wrench to screw it down. Don't over-tighten!!


I messed up the first couple, stripped out, over-tighten, etc, but once I got the hang of it, they all Tap-cons seated correctly. The real test was when the carpet installers started stretching the carpet......boy was I worried. They were pumping away on the puller bar thingy...Dricore didn't move.


Good luck!


RPA

 

[goxa]



Quote:
Originally Posted by advertguy2 /forum/post/20880907


Cleaning the dust out of the hole is another key factor in Tapcon installation.

Vacuuming the dust is definitely crucial. I've been drilling a whole lot of Tapcons into concrete over the past few weeks and that's something I discovered right away. Dust falls at the bottom of the hole and doesn't let the screw go all the way in.

No need for hammer drill. Normal drill with masonry drill bit does the job great.

You should always use smaller diameter drill bit than the actual Tapcon screw.


I really like the Tapcons with hexagonal heads as you can use wrench bits to really grip them well.

 

[cybrsage]

I used a hammer drill with a tube that slides over the drill bit and has a hex head the size of the tapcon head. Drill the hole, slide the cover over it, insert the tapon, go to the next spot and repeat.


It helps having a friend who does commercial construction for a living.

 

[Iusteve]

Are you using the "socket head" type or the "flat head" type? If the first that may be the issue combined with not cleaning each hole prior to securing the tapcons. I used the "flat head" type though I believe I went 1/4" or maybe 1/2" longer than recommended.


1) Drill hole with hammer drill

2) Vacuum out hole with shop vac

3) Secure tapcon with seperate cordless drill

4) Sit back, drink a beer and admire your nice room with fancy, warm dri-core!!

 

[2panther]

I ended up going back to Lowes and bought 2 1/4" tapcons, drilled the holes deeper to accommodate the screws and vacuumed out each hole. The longer length worked like a charm and they all (minus 2 because I ran out of screws) are very snuggly sunk in to the cement and the dricore isn't moving. I will sink the last two tomorrow and then I can move on to the prehung doors.


Thanks for all the replies!

 

[Chris_Holmes]

When I installed my subfloor in the basement I must have used well over 150 Tapcons. As you've found out the trick is to get a good bite (1" min). The other thing is to make sure the hole is at least 1/4" deeper than the screw length. I had one or two that were just a touch short and the screw broke when it bottomed out. I used a cordless impact driver to seat them and it worked great. I didn't bother vacuuming out the holes and got to the point where I think I was able to drill a hole and put the screw in in about 30 seconds, however, at that rate I did have to cool the bit down once in a while!