AVS Forum banner
Status
Not open for further replies.
1 - 7 of 7 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
64 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I've searched the forum on this subject and find many differing approaches - some due to code issues. The facts/plans in my situation are:


1. Room-within-a-room framing, 1" gap between existing walls and new studs.

2. Will do 1/2" drywall over 5/8" - seams at right angles to each other.

3. Both layers will be screwed and glued.

4. I've checked with the inspectors and there is no requirement for tape/mud since will cover the drywall with GoM (over Linacoustic and batting).

4. The floating ceiling (new joists) will be taped/mudded and finished so that it can be painted.

5. All the drywall hanging and finishing will be subcontracted.


My questions are:


1. Is there any need to tape and mud the first layer since the seams will be 90 degrees to each other?

2. Since the 2nd layer will be glued as well as screwed, do the screws for the 2nd layer need to go into the studs? Is this true for the ceiling too?

3. If the answer for 2. is "no", are the screws for the 2nd layer a different type (coarser thread?) and how long should they be?

4. Since the sub will have to come back several times to finish the ceiling, does it make sense to have them go ahead and finish the joints for all of it, even though it isn't required to pass inspection?


Thanks!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
676 Posts
My opinions;


1 - No, I just used the USG Acoustic Sealant and sealed everything.

2 - Yes for the walls .. most definitely for the ceiling. I talked to a building supply and he indicated that you should hit the studs, but you don't need a lot of screws. I did 3 rows of 3 screws for even pressure while the LN set up. I used the normal spacing on the ceiling b/c I'm paranoid. I used the same screws for both layers (1 1/4" for first, 1 5/8" for second).

3 - n/a

4 - First off, cost would be a factor. If you get a big price break, don't do it. I finished the final layer, but I'm going to use it as is for a while before doing the GOM (for budget reasons). If the room ever gets converted back to a family room or something, it would be nice to do so without having to sand drywall in a carpeted room.


Hope this helps! Just my opinion and I'm sure others will chime in. Good luck in the construction. I'm nearing carpet ... the finish stretch.


Later, Chad
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,947 Posts
Chime time!


1. I would do a single mudding with self-adhesive mesh tape; apply tape first, then smear mud on, filling spaces, let dry, no sanding.


2. Absolutely, especially ceiling. In fact, use LiqNails on all joists and studs, and first layer, spare the screws, second layer, every foot.


Layer 1 can be 1' to 1-1/4", second, 1-3/4" to 2". In addition, I would work out layer two to best, fewest-joints layout, and then design layer one to mismatch.


3. Also n/a.


4. If I understand the question, see #1.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7,656 Posts
I actually did both. I caulked all of the joints and then taped and mudded over them. The only place I did not do this was in the corners since there is already extra mass there via the alternating layers. For the corners, I just caulked the first layer.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
64 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thanks for all the input! I'm leaning toward having the subcontractor do the 1 layer tape and mud on each layer of the walls. I've already used acoustical caulk on various holes and buttered the outlet boxes, and this stuff is a pain to crank out of the tube. I've got blisters to prove it.


I'm not wanting to slow down the subcontractor (after all time is money), so I'm inclined to let them do what they are familiar with - taping and mudding. I was hoping to get all the drywall hung in one day (about 60 sheets), but if I want the joints taped and mudded, that will require the hangers to come back for the second layer. I guess that's the way it will have to be. I've gotten a price that is less than $12/sheet for hanging everything and finishing the ceiling and one 9' wall section of an adjoining room. That's labor only. The price is so good that I'm afraid to add too many special requirements for fear that they will either raise the price considerably, or decline the job. I think if I just ask for the one-coat tape and mud, it won't be much more.


I guess the verdict is to not spend the extra on final finishing of the walls. That's how I was leaning.


Thanks again for sharing your views!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,947 Posts
Carlton, $12/sheet is a great price!!! I wouldn't do it that cheap! I charge $50-$65 (including materials) retail, and wouldn't go less than $25 ever!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
914 Posts
Carlton, in Northern Virginia, the going rate per sheet is in the $75 range. I _wish_ I could find it for anywhere near your price!!!!


(my job is about 75 sheets total BTW)


--curtis
 
1 - 7 of 7 Posts
Status
Not open for further replies.
Top