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I thought when the TV first came out that some people had issues with some of the zones going out? I never saw it on the four 75" sets I had though. But I also did not have them long term.

I keep flip flopping about getting an open box, 65" 8 Series. There is one around thirty miles away. And the price is really good. But I can't quite pull the trigger. Since I'm curious how their 2021 TVs will be.
 

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But I can't quite pull the trigger. Since I'm curious how their 2021 TVs will be.
You waited this long...might as well wait another 6 months. Amazingly, the 75" Series 8 is STILL more expensive now on clearance that I paid for it in Oct 2020
 
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Just bought the 75" and cant get the settings right. With action smoothing and clarity both off, the image is shutters. It isn't until smoothing is on medium or high that the shutter disappears. But with that high smoothing, I see tons of soap opera effect.

Any ideas?
 

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Put it in game mode and see what happens. What is your source? Did you upgrade to the latest firmware?
 

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Put it in game mode and see what happens. What is your source? Did you upgrade to the latest firmware?
Seems to happen with streaming. And the game mode option only shows up when I am using my ps4. I think the firmware is up to date, I'll have to double check.
 

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First thing I would do would be to try plugging an ethernet cable to the router, then download a speedtest app and make sure you are getting low lag, 20Mb/s speed at minimum. Sounds like a bad WiFi connection. I realize now that game mode only shows up when using an external source, not the Roku built in apps. Check the speed with the speedtest app, and see how it looks.
Some apps like Pluto and other free ones, use 30 frames per second, and do look kind of jerky. Try YouTube 4k demos to test. They will max out your system.
 

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TCL 75Q825 - Denon 3700 - 5.1.4 - Sierra1 FCR, SVS Prime Elevation SS+FH+RH, Rythmik LV12F x 2
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Seems to happen with streaming. And the game mode option only shows up when I am using my ps4. I think the firmware is up to date, I'll have to double check.
Are you streaming in the native apps or using a Shield or FireTV? This stutter can be caused by content from say Netflix that is at 24fps being output at 60fps. 3:2 pull down can cause this and some ppl, like me are sensitive and can catch it. See if you have a match frame content option. It happens to me in slow panning scenes, I just set the Shield to output 24fps and it fixes.
 

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OK, I give up. What is the correct setting on the TCL audio setting to get ATMOS from the HBOMAX app?
RIght now I have it set to DD+,DTS. When I switch it to passthrough, all I get is PCM 2.0 on my AMP through eARC.
 

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I would love an answer to this above question as well ^ it SEEMS to kick in for me if I have that same setting selected that you do. But it is finicky


Another question! I need a longer power cable for this TV. Anyone know what would work? (A direct link would be very appreciated)
 

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What bugs me is, it kicks into Dolby Digital+ even if there is no program playing, so the TV is forcing the AVR into Dolby Digital. What does that do to material that ISNT in Dolby Digital? My Vizio actually switches the AVR back and forth from PCM to Dolby during some commercials which are not in DD, whereas the TCL just leaves it always in DD+, but then so does my ATT TV box, but NOT an EXTERNAL Roku. Its very odd.
 

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TCL 75Q825 - Denon 3700 - 5.1.4 - Sierra1 FCR, SVS Prime Elevation SS+FH+RH, Rythmik LV12F x 2
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What bugs me is, it kicks into Dolby Digital+ even if there is no program playing, so the TV is forcing the AVR into Dolby Digital. What does that do to material that ISNT in Dolby Digital? My Vizio actually switches the AVR back and forth from PCM to Dolby during some commercials which are not in DD, whereas the TCL just leaves it always in DD+, but then so does my ATT TV box, but NOT an EXTERNAL Roku. Its very odd.
I just gave it a try and my Denon 3700 does not go to Atmos either. I gave up using internal apps (specially HBO, after WW84)in early Jan2021. I don’t think there is a perfect media stream/player as they all have their faults. I currently use Fire Cube for Youtube and Prime Video and then the ShieldTV Pro for everything else. Shield can even play lossless audio through Plex. The downside is that there is no HDR in Youtube and Prime Video for whatever reason looks like crap.
 

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Is there a way to disable eARC and just use ARC? I can not get the internal Roku apps to lip sync with my AVR using eARC and some shows I believe should be in DD just dont work correctly.. Devices plugged directly into the AVR are in sync. I would hate to have to buy a Roku Ultra to replace the built in Roku Ultra. The ATT Android box works great, a little slow, and I may just use that if I cannot fix the internal apps.
 

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TCL 75Q825 - Denon 3700 - 5.1.4 - Sierra1 FCR, SVS Prime Elevation SS+FH+RH, Rythmik LV12F x 2
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Is there a way to disable eARC and just use ARC? I can not get the internal Roku apps to lip sync with my AVR using eARC and some shows I believe should be in DD just dont work correctly.. Devices plugged directly into the AVR are in sync. I would hate to have to buy a Roku Ultra to replace the built in Roku Ultra. The ATT Android box works great, a little slow, and I may just use that if I cannot fix the internal apps.
I don’t think there is a way to disable the “e” part of eARC. Maybe setting HDMI to 1.4 but don’t know if that would work.
 

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Problem is, the internal apps arent on an HDMI port, so dont think there is a way. That is my only complaint with this TV vs other high end TVs, the lack of settings available. That might be a good thing in general, but for people with issues, it can really be annoying. It is always the same issue with me too, the video is ahead of the audio, so all the AVR audio delay settings just make it worse, game mode names it worse on the TV. Havent tried disabling local dimming to speed up the video, but that would negate the whole reason for buying the TV. I guess I will just use the external sources plugged into the AVR and ignore the TV's ports and internal Roku. Shame. I had the same issue using a soundbar. It all started with the eARC enabling update.
 
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Problem is, the internal apps arent on an HDMI port, so dont think there is a way. That is my only complaint with this TV vs other high end TVs, the lack of settings available. That might be a good thing in general, but for people with issues, it can really be annoying. It is always the same issue with me too, the video is ahead of the audio, so all the AVR audio delay settings just make it worse, game mode names it worse on the TV. Havent tried disabling local dimming to speed up the video, but that would negate the whole reason for buying the TV. I guess I will just use the external sources plugged into the AVR and ignore the TV's ports and internal Roku. Shame. I had the same issue using a soundbar. It all started with the eARC enabling update.
Yeah. Don’t believe there is a workaround. And I wouldn’t hold my breath for an update that would fix it.
 

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I am waiting on the new Nvidia Shield this fall, early next year to consolidate all my streaming to one device. That is assuming they dont do like they do with video cards and sell them all to scalpers who quadruple the price on ebay.
 

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I am waiting on the new Nvidia Shield this fall, early next year to consolidate all my streaming to one device. That is assuming they dont do like they do with video cards and sell them all to scalpers who quadruple the price on ebay.
Do you know what this unit will have? Other than the YT and Prime thing mentioned (which solely lies on the app itself) and not having a non beta match frame rate this thing fits my bill. I don’t game and don’t have a plan for 8K.
 

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No, I have no clue what the unit will have other than a processor that is supposed to be 3X faster than the current one, and hopefully updated specs like USB-C.
I run a Plex server, and would like to be able to stream AND run the plex server at the same time. I would buy the current one, except why spend $200 when a new one is on the horizon, and my HTPC currently serves but is getting long in the tooth (old AMD 4x processor, outdated memory, and an old GTX745 video card with no horsepower. Only up to date thing on my HTPC is a SSD boot drive :)
 
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AS everyone who has this TV knows, when you turn off local dimming, there are splotches of backlight all over the screen from 0% black to about 10% black. Has ANYONE calibrated this TV and found a way to make the backlight uniform without using the local dimming algorithm? I am trying to adjust the clipping levels on the flashing black and white bars which are supposed to be adjusted to where the 17 bar flashes. Problem is, with local dimming turned on, I can never get all the bars to light up, only about half. If I turn up the brightness control, after 2 clicks, the flashing bars actually start turning colors. It is very odd. Only way to get it to act like it should is to disable local dimming, then get the blobs all over. I should mention this is in HDR mode with an ATT android TV box. SDR is fine with local dimming on.
 

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AS everyone who has this TV knows, when you turn off local dimming, there are splotches of backlight all over the screen from 0% black to about 10% black. Has ANYONE calibrated this TV and found a way to make the backlight uniform without using the local dimming algorithm? I am trying to adjust the clipping levels on the flashing black and white bars which are supposed to be adjusted to where the 17 bar flashes. Problem is, with local dimming turned on, I can never get all the bars to light up, only about half. If I turn up the brightness control, after 2 clicks, the flashing bars actually start turning colors. It is very odd. Only way to get it to act like it should is to disable local dimming, then get the blobs all over. I should mention this is in HDR mode with an ATT android TV box. SDR is fine with local dimming on.
There is no way of calibrating the “splotches” out. Whites do not clip in HDR so contrast should be set to 100. You want your unit to be able to output as much nits as possible on HDR to be able to get specular highlights in Dolby Vision and/or HDR so backlight should also be at 100. Brightness like you said messes color accuracy so it should be left at 50.
 
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