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Rtings blamed a lot of that on the overly aggressive local dimming. They had some pretty good demos on their review video. I've almost bought an 8 series twice during their sales, but until I'm sure they get it fixed, I'm out. The increased number of zones and the mini LED's should be better at this, not worse. Looks like the kind of thing that should have been addressed with a firmware update already, but hopefully thy'll get it right soon.
 

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Went back last night and started from scratch comparing the legacy Panasonic TC-P65S60 plasma, TCL 65R615, and the TCL 65Q825.

After doing a basic SDR calibration again with the Disney WOW disc, I realized I made a mistake on how I was supposed to use the Brightness and Contrast test patterns. The 8 series default settings are actually pretty close out of the box and the resulting calibration settings are:

The settings below assume iPQ calibration at Gamma 2.2.

Dark room SDR settings:

TV brightness: Darker
Picture mode: Movie*
Picture size: Direct

Advanced picture settings:

Picture mode: Movie*
Local contrast: High
Dynamic Contrast: Off [grayed out]
Backlight: 40 (default)
Brightness: 50 -> 51 (definite black crush at 50)
Contrast: 100 -> 99 (definite white clipping at 100)
Sharpness: 20 (default, don't see any major issues in test patterns)
Color: 45 -> 50 (default is fairly close, but 50 is more accurate)
Tint: 0 (default, it's spot on)
Color Temperature: Warm* (iPQ calibrated)

HDR settings:
TV brightness: Brighter
Picture mode: Dark DV or Dark HDR (depending on content type)
Brightness: 50 -> 51 (Dark DV only, critical change to improve shadow detail)
Everything else: default
Color Temperature: Warm* (iPQ calibrated)

There is some black crush and lack of shadow detail at the default settings for DV content. Simply moving the Brightness up one click to 51 reclaims significant amounts of shadow detail. Lowering the gamma down from 2.2, to 2.0 or 1.8 had minimal effect but moving the Brightness up one click to 51 results in a pretty dramatic improvement. I don't see the same phenomenon with HDR10 or HLG but didn't spend much time with those.

See the attached 4 screenshots to illustrate what I'm talking about. These are all from the opening shot of My Planet on Netflix. Apologies that they're not all synchronized exactly, I was trying to focus on the stars in the background. All pics taken with an iPhone 11, at default settings.

Panasonic plasma - ignore the blueish cast of the moon, that's just me messing up taking the picture. I didn't realize it at the time and didn't bother to go back and take a better picture. Just look at the stars. Decent amount.
TCL 6 - lots of stars
TCL 8 at default settings in Dark DV - Deep black, but very few stars
TCL 8 in Dark DV, bumping up Brightness from 50 to 51 - still pretty deep black, way more stars but still not as many as the 6 series.

Part of what's going on with the 8 series is that the picture is so incredibly bright. It's not that there isn't shadow detail, there is, but you don't see it because you're almost blinded by the brightness of other elements of the picture. This scene is a good example. In the TCL 8 adjusted picture, there are actually more stars visible than what the picture shows, it's just that the brightness of the moon in the foreground is so bright you don't see them. If you pause the scene, and hold your hand up in front of your face covering up the moon, you can actually see that there are more stars in the background than you realized were there.

Based off of these screenshots, a lot of people would prefer the TCL 6 series picture. The 8 series proves its chops in more uniformly dark scenes as well as scenes with bright colors present.

I'll post shots of the scene from Ozark later to illustrate.
I have to agree with that completely. I think the 617 (and the 625 from what you've posted) handle that particular shot better, but also it's partially perception because of just how dramatically brighter the 8 Series is. It's honestly a bit uncomfortable to watch in a dark room at 40 backlight because of how bright it gets. That being said, I had a lot better results with that particular scene by shifting to Bright DV and Dark brightness. I'll try to get some pictures of it tonight comparing the Bright DV and Dark DV to show what I mean. I didn't adjust my brightness to 51 or contrast down, but may try that tonight as well.
 

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Rtings blamed a lot of that on the overly aggressive local dimming. They had some pretty good demos on their review video. I've almost bought an 8 series twice during their sales, but until I'm sure they get it fixed, I'm out. The increased number of zones and the mini LED's should be better at this, not worse. Looks like the kind of thing that should have been addressed with a firmware update already, but hopefully thy'll get it right soon.
FWIW, I didn't see any of the overly aggressive dimming that Rtings saw on the Earth spinning video, the set handled it perfectly and I never saw the crazy effect they saw as the lights turned. I haven't tried the golfball video, but to be honest I probably won't. Until I see that effect actually hurt real content, I don't want to go searching for it. Have the same rule about DSE, unless it's there in real content, I'm not going hunting for it.
 

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OK, I got my new set today. No dots on the screen or other issues with the set, so far.
Would you please let me know how you requested the exchange? On the BB site I'm only seeing the option to return the item to a local store. Were you able to get them to come pick it up and bring a new one?
 

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Would you please let me know how you requested the exchange? On the BB site I'm only seeing the option to return the item to a local store. Were you able to get them to come pick it up and bring a new one?



I called the customer service number and told them I wanted an exchange. They asked the size of the TV and I told them 65".
Yes, they delivered the new TV and took back the other one.
 

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First time post! Have discovered this thread since purchasing this tv during a a BB sale a few weeks ago. At first I experienced black crush like everyone else and wanted to return it, but having calibrated, and using a gamma of 1.8, I have eliminated black crush and have a fantastic picture quality. This thing is really amazing once you get it right. The brightness levels it can hit are just unreal, and so are the black levels for an LED. Once calibrated, The Long Night is actually not only watchable, but looks amazing (and this being the stream!). I also just switched from a Sony X800m2 player to a UB820, and as my friend put it comparing the Guardians 2 4K Blu-ray Disc on both payers, the full potential of the tv is finally being hit. It can really put out an amazing picture if that's what's coming in.

I also want to note I experienced HDR color banding as a result of the 12 bit output of these blu-ray players on rare occasions such as the forest scene in Guardians 2 (or maybe it was regular and I didn't notice it all the time). As a side note, it's king of ridiculous they sell blu-ray players outputting colors our tv's can't handle, and you have to get a fancy player to "downgrade" your color :p. Although I may be missing a TV setting to handle the 12-bit signal, so let me know if I'm missing that and if it would affect colors or picture quality.

My return period expires in 2 days and I can't wait to watch it go by, because I am totally in love with the tv, and that's before you include hope that it may in the future get a firmware updating improving what it can do picture-wise (I'm guessing if it does it'll be when their new TVs come out). I wouldn't recommend this TV for someone who doesn't have the time or is the type of person to want to tinker with their TV, but otherwise I think there is a ton of value in this TV when on sale.
 

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I wanted to add I did rectify the HDR banding issue by setting my blu-ray player to output 10-bit color. So that's great now. My one wish for this TV is for them to add variable refresh rate later this year when the new Xbox comes out.
 

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What is everyone using for the motion settings?
I turned everything off. I hate SOE so Action Smoothing is an automatic no-go and couldn’t really tell if Action Clarity did anything or not, so just left it off. Will probably try Action Clarity again once sports start back up and see if it makes a difference then.
 

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Well I decided to put up my new better full motion wall mount yesterday finally. I've been dreading pulling the TV off the old mount but I saved all the packing material and box so I have everything needed to gently rock it off the old one and set it upright somewhere safe while I swapped the mounts out.
I got a Mounting Dreams MD2298 that can handle 132 pounds and 24" stud spacing and it replaced a Husky Mounts that was made for 75 pounds and 16" stud spacing that I made work with the 24" my house has. Original 55' set only weighed about 35 pounds so worked great for it and even held the new set at 70 pounds but was only truly lagged into one stud and the other side had a bunch of snap wall ties and washers but it worked.
Anyways started in the afternoon and had the new mount up and set in place a couple hours later. Managed to damage the drywall when one of the anchors stripped out and refused to come out of the wall and pulled too hard and pulled it through. Luckily the new mount has a much bigger mounting plate and covered everything except a couple of extra holes I did to try and add extra anchors on the right side to stabilize it and spread the weight better.
Anyway The new mount is much heavier made and high quality and even moves smoother. I paid 89 bucks for it on Amazon and it's just less then 100 now so if anyone is looking for a decent mount that can take some weight and wide wall studs this is a good choice.
Also I did the forced firmware upgrade Friday talked about here by try to add a Roku Speaker and it upgraded to 9.3 build 1450 Then I checked today and it upgraded to 1470. The first run updated 22 things and was saying all kinds of stuff like supercharging display etc. I checked one more time after it was done for a bit and it upgraded another 4 things. This one today just updated and didn't give anything like that. So they seem to be pumping out updates once you do the Roku speaker almost upgrade trick. I can't really tell any difference in the picture and what might have been changed but all my settings are the same and it probably added drivers for the speakers and updated a bunch of the streaming apps along with whatever else but might be worth checking on for those of you still on 9.2.
If anyone knows where to look on the TCL site maybe we can find out what was updated or added.:)
 

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Just got a sound bar and looking for help on best way to plug my blu ray player in. I will solely just be using the TVs apps and Blu Ray player. With my old receiver, I would run 1 HDMI from the blu ray players Video Out directly into the TV, and the other HDMI from the blu ray players Audio Out directly into the receiver. Is this configuration possible with a sound bar? Or will I just have to run 1 HDMI out from my blu ray player into the sound bar and then HDMI into the TVs ARC input? If I do it this way will there be a noticeable picture quality difference compared to running 2 separate HDMIs for Video and Audio? Also - say I were to plug a device in the HDMI 3 input and also had an HDMI cable in the 4 ARC input into my sound bar, if I were on HDMI 3 input would I still be able to hear sound from the ARC on input 4? Or is the only way you can use and hear ARC is by you having to use that specific input at all times? I’m sorry for all the questions but I get very confused with Soundbar ARC and all of the possible headaches it might cause. Thanks!
 

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Just got a sound bar and looking for help on best way to plug my blu ray player in. I will solely just be using the TVs apps and Blu Ray player. With my old receiver, I would run 1 HDMI from the blu ray players Video Out directly into the TV, and the other HDMI from the blu ray players Audio Out directly into the receiver. Is this configuration possible with a sound bar? Or will I just have to run 1 HDMI out from my blu ray player into the sound bar and then HDMI into the TVs ARC input? If I do it this way will there be a noticeable picture quality difference compared to running 2 separate HDMIs for Video and Audio? Also - say I were to plug a device in the HDMI 3 input and also had an HDMI cable in the 4 ARC input into my sound bar, if I were on HDMI 3 input would I still be able to hear sound from the ARC on input 4? Or is the only way you can use and hear ARC is by you having to use that specific input at all times? I’m sorry for all the questions but I get very confused with Soundbar ARC and all of the possible headaches it might cause. Thanks!
It depends on your soundbar's capabilities, which one did you get?

You'll be able to hear the audio from your HDMI 3 source in the soundbar if that is what you are meaning to ask.
 

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The soundbar is the Yamaha YAS 207 which has ARC and 4K passthrough. I guess I’m just trying to get the best video and audio quality from my blu ray player. If my only option is to plug it into the soundbar with 1 HDMI? Or if there is some way to split the video and audio through 2 HDMI cables which is what I did with my old AVR receiver - and would that quality really be that much better than 1 HDMI cable doing both video/audio?
 

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The soundbar is the Yamaha YAS 207 which has ARC and 4K passthrough. I guess I’m just trying to get the best video and audio quality from my blu ray player. If my only option is to plug it into the soundbar with 1 HDMI? Or if there is some way to split the video and audio through 2 HDMI cables which is what I did with my old AVR receiver - and would that quality really be that much better than 1 HDMI cable doing both video/audio?
If your disc player supports Dolby Vision, you'll want to run separate cables (same as before) since your soundbar doesn't pass Dolby Vision.

Otherwise you should connect the disc player to the soundbar, which then sends video to the TV via the ARC connection.
 

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So I got this TV installed this Thursday by BB. I have read a lot here that OOB this TV is not well calibrated. IPQ app can help somewhat with grayscale levels, but how soon should I perform professional color calibration? I called BB Geek squad and was told to wait for 400 hours of TV time to let the LEDs to settle before doing calibration. Sounds like a lot with our 2-3 hour average daily viewing. Does calibration help with solving black crushing in HDR?
I do have Total Care from BestBuy. So calibration would only cost me $50, compared to their regular $250 price.What would you advise?
 

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Got my 75 installed today and man, it’s a flame thrower! All kinds of light output. Brighter than my 6 series in the bedroom and way brighter than the 5 year old Samsung it replaced. Had good look with the app calibration but may run it again and see where I can get it (iPhone 11 m pro max). Watched bad boys for life in 4k and yeah, the Miami colors were extremely vibrant. I dig it so far...especially at the sale price from BB


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
 

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Got my 75 installed today and man, it’s a flame thrower! All kinds of light output. Brighter than my 6 series in the bedroom and way brighter than the 5 year old Samsung it replaced. Had good look with the app calibration but may run it again and see where I can get it (iPhone 11 m pro max). Watched bad boys for life in 4k and yeah, the Miami colors were extremely vibrant. I dig it so far...especially at the sale price from BB


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
Did you mean good luck with the iAPQ? Secondly, please post your Color Error dE2K before and after.
Thanks
 

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Did you mean good luck with the iAPQ? Secondly, please post your Color Error dE2K before and after.
Thanks


Yes, good luck. I didn’t save it, but it was like 3.50 prior and 1.25 after? Think it was something like that. I’ll do it again and take a screen pic of it


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
 
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