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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Got a few questions installing a Terk BMS-58 to into my system. I have a Terk triple LNB dish and am going to be doing my entire house for D* with a total of 5 receivers. These are my questions:

1-Is there any order to follow in running the 4 RG6 cables from the dish to the multiswitch. The switch seems to be labeled Sat A and Sat B

:confused: ( what happened to Sat C) along with two inputs saying 18v and 2 saying 13v.

2- If not using a amplified antenna I assume you place the DC block in-line on the antenna side output of the diplexer.

3-I am using a Monster HTPS 70000 conditioner/surge protector. I want to protect my coax feed from the dish/antenna. Should I run the main RG6 into the monster and then the diplexer or run the main line into the diplexer first and then run both outputs from the diplexer into the monster:confused:

Thanks for any help in advance:)
 

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Order is unimportant. You are actually connecting to the multiswitch on the dish rather than the LNBs. Sat C is piggybacked onto Sat B inside the multiswitch built into the dish. There is no need for a DC block. The diplexer has one built in on the antenna side if you are using the right kind of diplexer. It should show a DC pass only on the dish leg. It's important that the coax lines, dish mast and antenna mast be grounded. Grounding the multiswitch is a convenient way to ground all the coax connections if it is near the coax entry point of the building. If you use the Monster, connecting the main RG6 will save a connector. Do not rely on the Monster to ground the coax.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks for the help. The Terk diplexer actually comes with a DC block for the external antenna/cable side that you can add or leave off if you need to power a pre-amp for the OTA antenna (at least that's how the directions go). Since I do not plan on using a pre-amp I figured that you need to place the DC block in-line:confused: As for the Monster I was not sure if running the main RG6 would mess anything up with the diplexer trying to separate the signal. I have a total of 3 coax jacks that can run through the monster so doing it after the diplexer would also not be any problem (but cost an extra connection). My OTA antenna is going to be located in my attic, would I still need to ground it:confused: The multiswitch is going to be centrally located in the house. My house has been wired with a "structured" wiring plan that makes all the connections to one point for every room in the house. That is also the same point that I had the 4 runs from the dish and my OTA antenna meet. From that point I can then connect to any room in the house. The entire house was wired with RG6 and catV.
 

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Some people have said that grounding an attic antenna can help with the picture. I don't know. It isn't needed for safety. I'm not used to diplexers coming with an external DC block. I'm used to single and double passthru types that have them built in. I would check to make sure the dish mast and coax is properly grounded. I've seen supposedly professional installations that weren't. You are probably fine though if it was installed at the time the house was built because it would have to pass inspection.
 

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I have heard that the multiswitch you're referring to is incompatible with that dish; it seems to get confused when on the same lines as the mutliswitch built in to the dish. I have seen this firsthand. I was told the solution is to get a powered multiswitch.
 

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The Terk BMS-58 is a powered, cascadable multiswitch and has no incompatibility issue with any D* dish. You're thinking of multiswitches that don't have a 22KHz tone generator built into the Sat B connections but the Terk BMS-58 has that.
 

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Quote:
Originally posted by greywolf
The Terk BMS-58 is a powered, cascadable multiswitch and has no incompatibility issue with any D* dish. You're thinking of multiswitches that don't have a 22KHz tone generator built into the Sat B connections but the Terk BMS-58 has that.
Oh you're quite right, I've only seen the non-powered Terk multiswitch.
 

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Just FYI, contrary to Terk's spec sheet and marketing, this unit does NOT have DC pass capability through the satellite feeds for an antenna pre-amp. You must run the DC for the antenna pre-amp via the otc antenna input, which means somewhere between the BMS-58 and the antenna. After spending several frustrating hours trying to power my antenna pre-amp through the antenna split-out at the receiver end, I finally called Terk tech support and they told me that it does not have DC pass through, that the specs and marketing materials are wrong. This was about three months ago and they still haven't correct their BS, even on their website!
 

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D* receivers use a 13V/18V signal to choose odd/even transponders so there is no way an amp power supply can be added downstream of a multiswitch. They are referring to passthru from the Multiswitch power supply to the antenna input connection. The web site quote is:


The BMS-58 has an ultra-low noise built-in amplifier to eliminate

signal loss and deliver the best possible reception to every TV

in the home. It features DC pass capability allowing it to be

used with amplified antennas that require DC power via a

coaxial cable.


Have you checked with a volt meter to see if the antenna input has DC power? If not, the specs are indeed misleading and it would be good for us to know about it.
 

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Greywolf, you are correct. You can feed the antenna pre-amp DC power via a separate coaxial input to the switch, which will then pass through to the antenna input, but you can't piggy back the preamp DC power via the coaxials from the switch to the receivers. Terk tech support first told me I could before I bought the unit. They told me that again when it wouldn't work that way, but changed their story after talking to their engineering department. Rather than running a separate coax to power the switch (which would be a major event in my setup once all the other cables had been installed), I found a way to loop the antenna coax into and out of a location in my garage where I able to insert the preamp power block.
 

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What I'm trying to say is that the multiswitch and the pre-amp ought to work on the same power supply. The system was supposed to be designed so that the power to the multiswitch should pass through the antenna connector and also power the pre-amp. The pre-amp power supply should not be required or used in that scenario. I gather that you are using the pre-amp power supply to power them both and that the pass through is bi-directional.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
greywolf describes this just as the directions on the BMS-58/diplexer say. That is why they say they give you the DC block for the diplexer, to put on the antenna output of the diplexer when not using a pre-amp for your antenna.
 

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The second picture is not of a BMS-58 but the older model, M58, which is the same as the Eagle Aspen S-4180-GX+. It looks like somebody just inserted the wrong picture.
 

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Be careful, many online and retail stores are still getting rid of older M58 stock as BMS-58.
 

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The M58 does not pass the power source DC through to the antenna input. Any preamp at the antenna would require having it's own power source inserted between the preamp and the multiswitch.
 

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So if I live close enough to the towers that I don't need a pre-amp to get my locals OTA, then I should save some money and go with the multi-switch that doesn't pass the DC power to the Antenna?
 

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Even if you needed a preamp, all of the multiswitches would work. It would just be a matter of installing the preamp power supply rather than leaving it out. Shopping based on price rather than brand is what I would recommend.
 
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